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Are you looking for the press in type or screw in type. If it is the screw in type, is it the thread on the inside or outside of the tuner type? Help might be available

As a (now retired) physicist /engineer I rapidly analysed the many variables in this problem. I quickly reached a simple conclusion. Just play it where you get the tones you want

Corrected that for you

Careful what you wish for, it could be done

The 'break' angles and friction where the strings exit the bridge to the machine heads will make for interesting tuning issues (unless there have been modifications). I think I will give this one a miss....

Great advice from @AndyTravis and @Andyjr1515, I am on the case and await developments. I had thought of enquiring at Brandoni guitars (they bought vast amounts of Eko parts), but they are on hold at the moment: " Due to the untimely passing of Mr Roberto Brandoni, we will be temporarily suspending all our business activities."

Have owned this from new in 1980 and used in various folk bands over the years. Time to give it some TLC, it has sentimental value rather than actual £££. Two questions for the collective wisdom and advice of BC a) The headstock plate has disintegrated (age / sunlight, not impact damage). It appears to be a transparent plastic plate, painted black on the back. The EKO logo is a metal foil affair stuck onto the underside of the headstock plate. The missing bit is MIA many years ago. The finish on the neck is thick polyester? and likely to chip out. My thoughts are a) score and file carefully around the headstock plate and eventually remove it minimising damage to the edge finish. Replace with something e.g. maple and suitable EKO transfer (I do not hold out much hope of getting an actual metal foil logo or headstock plate) or b) simpler solution, make a 'cover' to glue over the damaged bits. or c) find someone who can replicate the old one. b) Although it is well built (solid top, neat bracing etc) it was built down to a price. The back binding is simply painted on. This has bugged me for many years, how feasible is retro fitting a plastic binding? What do we think?

Bought a set of Trubass strings from @Moose. Excellent deal, great communication and the strings arrived faster than a fast thing. Many Thanks.

Nice plugs, there is nothing quite like a good solid plug

Practice runs in scrap timer are an excellent idea😊

Useful reading https://www.projectguitar.com/tutorials/instrument-building/router-basics-simple-soapbar-pickup-routing-r72/

'Sellock roll pins' will yield results on *bay or your local engineering factors. Drive it out with a hammer and a piece of round bar the same diameter as the hole. It should go back in OK as well. This thread is really useful since I am also pondering the same issues with my Clifton EUB.

Does this mean that the stated pre amp output of 0dB in the Sansamp RB1 manual is almost meaningless? The manual not indicate whether it is dBu, dBV or dBm and we now know it has maximum output of ~3V rms. The manual states "The standard output level range of the SansAmp RBI is 0dB due to the popularity of digital recorders, which are unforgiving to excessive input levels. This prevents overloading the input of a digital recorder.", Is it the case that that the 0dB figure is the capability we just "have to know" it can do far more? My background is Physics / Engineering not pro audio. As said above, the flashing clip limit LEDs does suggest that the problems are after the power amp (I missed the clip LED statement, read the op too fast).

Looking at the manuals (and from experience from sometimes using a similar setup) I think you are on the money. Sansamp has 0dBu output, QSC requires +3.5dBU input for max power at 8Ohms (the 2450 is +4dBu, next column in the manual in small print). 0dBu means the Sansamp maximum output will be 0.775V 3.5dBu means that the QSC requires 1.16V to give the maximum output (as stated in the manual) Thus on paper the Sansamp is only providing about 66% of the maximum input required, hence the low power output. However..... in a 2015 Basschat thread about the same issue https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/272772-best-power-amp-for-tech-21-sansamp-rbi-preamp/ Tech21NYC stated ".....we have been through this numerous times on the Talk Bass forum years back. We even measured our RBI's output to duplicate Crown's test specs. These are the results: With a -10dB 1kz sine wave (which is what Crown uses for the specs) (.3V rms which is an instrument level signal) and all the EQ controls on the RBI set flat, output level at 3 o'clock and the blend off, the output voltage of the RBI is 3.6 V rms........." So I am now left wondering (or getting the test kit out).

Probably stating the obvious so apologies in advance. Wait until you have the plug / dowel wood in your possession before choosing the drill size. I have bought 10mm plugs, happily drilled away ready to plug, when they arrived they were 9mm or thereabouts.

Much good advice previously. Easy out first if getting a hole in the screw is possible. If this proves resistant you could try drilling holes around the screws with a 1mm / 1.5mm drill bit (they break very easily) to reduce the grip on the screw and then try the easy out again. If this fails try a partial core drilling, just deep enough to let you grip the screw with pliers or cutters. Finally if all else fails, use the full core drill. It is all fixable

Immense scale length on that bass

I traded my DB for a Clifton Mini-Upright (which appeared in my local music shop). A really well made instrument and as above I get (imo) a really usable DB like pizz tone (am not an arco player). Mo Clifton very helpful with advice about the bass. They seem outstanding value when they appear for sale here.

Yes, the small open gear type, HB6C model. One thing I did remember is that they only just cover the peg holes at the back, careful positioning is needed. I am away at the moment can send pics later if that would help.

The clover leaf ultralights. Nearly a direct drop in. The holes from the Grovers are slightly too large for the Hipshots. I shimmed the holes with strips of plastic milk carton, easy to make and fit which have worked perfectly for the last 7 years or so. You could fit them without the shimming, I also believe Hipshot do a slightly larger bushing. You are left with the four screw holes from the Grover machine plates. I just put the Grover screws in these, that way I will not lose them if I sell it when bass playing declines.

Try, try and try as many basses (makes and models) as you can withstand trying . Somewhere along the line you will hopefully find 'the one'. It might surprise you what you end up with. One of the best basses I have ever encountered was a bitza P bass in a school I happened to be working in. Value about £60 according to my colleague who assembled it.

This, which I made for myself with the parallel neck. In terms of right hand technique It is 'interesting' to play.

BF Dubster. Peavey Tour 700 or when I feel the need to make the earth move, Crown power amp with Tech 21 Leeds pedal (previously QSC until it spectacularly died).