JTUK

[url="http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Sandberg_PM4.html"]http://www.bassdirect.co.uk/bass_guitar_specialists/Sandberg_PM4.html[/url] great pic but not so sure about the price or pickup config... but she is a stunner

Not a fan of chiropractors If they only try and reposition things as the problem is with you staying there in that position. This is why traction and bone crunching sessions are limted unless you have a program that retrains the muscles that hold the skeleton in place. It took a very decent physio who was not interested in weekly visits to proove this point to me. she said go away and do what I have shown you...and do it properlly and often..and then come back in 3 weeks and I will be able to tell you how much progress you have made and how much work you have put in.. and then we might be able to move forward. Genius... just my 2p..

Can't think who that is in Kent..you sure you don't mean Aylesford..which is near Maidstone..?

'Signed, sealed' ..and 'made to love him' On a pedantic note..are we talking about Motwon as an era, label or style..? whichever, but I think that knocks out Master Blaster on all fronts, IMO.

Agree...nice offer

Interesting point about drowning out drummers. This is exactly what 15's do typically...they get the wrong sonic space and then control is all about volume so the sound does not sit... it over or underwhelms. Keep a look out and ear for bass players with single 15's...you'll hear them and feel them, but to self mix in with a dynamic drummer is very hard to do over a couple of hours. Unless the drummer and bass player is VERY discilplined they will lose the mix pretty easily and is compounded when the bass player insists he wants a BIG sound. The only thing that might tidy it all up is if the drummer is right on the case with his kit tune and playing so HE cuts rather than the bass....but most players mix themselves and themselves only, so..??

It wasn't so very long ago that Berg did indeed do 115 but maybe they think 12's do that job better thesedays. I've never ever been convinced 15's work on their own and I also think that a 12 config is almost as much a compromise but acceptable as you can get it in a smaller box. I run a quality 2x112 rig against a 2x210 and the latter smashes it atm, IMV Maybe I will learn to use the 2x112 better and the gap will get closer. I expect this will be the case but I can't see it becoming no 1 rig. But, watch this space.

Had this same quandry and for quiet gigs always took out the 210. When I changed cabs..I thought the same config would work again..as it has always been good in the past for me.. and generally I don't like 15's... !!! but, the size and weight of the 115 would not work from a carry/transport POV so I went 2x210 which turned out to be a great solution.. and why wouldn't it, as I believe that a 410 is still the cab to beat in most smaller stage instances. Anwyay... am most happy with 2x210's but would not try and tell someone that 115 and 210 isn't a good match, indeed... I would keep to the same manufacturer and model tho..just to match it more easily and less trial and error as you'd expect decent makers to know their cabs work together If you mix and match anything and everything, then the experiement may becomes more hit and miss. Not saying it wouldn't work, but I wouldn't buy things this way and expect it to. If I had a spare and hooked it up and it worked well, then fine. I guess I am such a tart with cabs these days but stil can recall a time when all this was VERY fraught

Not tried it but guessing from experience that this wouldn't be a bad match up......but The 210 might rate around 400w whereas the 212 should be closer to 600watts with 8 ohms cabs.. If you chose the 350 amp, then I think this will sound great, tight and focused with a big low... and also pretty balanced in that one cab will not be overdriven with around 175w per cab max... Of course, you can't balance it anymore than the amp will do on its own accord but the fact that you have a sensible amp match-up would suggest good results. I think the 650 would put way more strain on the 210 with potentially 300 into it at full whack. and that would be a LOT into a 210 bass cab and something I'd avoid, myself.

If you mean the Aguilar DB115, then replace the 210 with a DB210 as soon as....they crop up here from time to time for around £400 SH.... and then you will have a stonking rig, IMO.

No chance, IMO. You would need a bollocking 210 to cope with 275 watts of decent bass and even then it would be risky. Of course, you might not be using the full whack the vast majority of time but the danger is that when things are loud and you ARE pushing, you can't quite hear the damage you'll be doing so on that basis I always suggest you don't get near to these limits. I always try and scope the gig to decide what rig is required and I always want the cab/cabs output level to excede the amp output. Easy to say, harder to do when all hell is breaking loose

[quote name='crez5150' timestamp='1336235687' post='1642963'] Cheers for the feedback guys...... Does anyone think that a modern day version of the Bass Baby would be something of interest to players? J [/quote] Not sure, tbh... as the competition is much stiffer..or more plentiful. I think I used a couple of old bass babies and they were ok in rehearsal rooms.. the same as PV combos were ok...but you wouldn't use one these days. Not sure I'd be much good to write a review with a stance like that

We use a Mackie Thump active...and we need to put more time into it as initial results have been average. Too flabby and not strong enough would be my description... we run it off a controller and there might be reasons for the mismatch but my choice was for e bay EV subs as they are more compact and I would hope, tighter.even though you'll need two, I think. Mackie are mid range stuff..altho I am not of that opinion atm after our experience, but I would strongly advise you don't touch the cheaper end for a decent P.A. Start with these [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EV-Electrovoice-SB122-Compact-400w-Subs-ONE-PAIR-NEXT-WORKING-DAY-DELIVERY-/200751159764?pt=UK_ConElec_SpeakersPASystems_RL&hash=item2ebdb399d4"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EV-Electrovoice-SB122-Compact-400w-Subs-ONE-PAIR-NEXT-WORKING-DAY-DELIVERY-/200751159764?pt=UK_ConElec_SpeakersPASystems_RL&hash=item2ebdb399d4[/url] you might be lucky to get them S/H for around £400. Also look at RCF.and HK Anything from Martin Audio is a step up again.. IMO.

People will try and tell you there is very little difference betwen speaker sizes but you can only go with what you know and hear. I'd say this to the vast majority of bass players... Most gigs with a bass player on a 15 will have that typical sound..and it may not be that good...will struggle to keep focus..will put out decent volume or more but will be too unsutble when the bass is being pushed and if the drums are holding back..will likely trample all over them...enough to pi$$ off the mix. The things that attract bass players to 15's are invariably the same things that snag the sound once the band gets going which will be too much bass which leads to the inevitable mush. Seen and heard it so many times, I'm afraid. You need to watch that you don't loose all tone and definition in your quest for that big bass sound and the trick is to be able to hear the bass properly when there is a cut down section in the track. I find a pick negates this to a last degree but fingerstyle can be a minefield. Some of the modern 12's are better in this regard...as the 12" is a relatively modern concept for bass, ...if you dismiss the Marshall and the like, efforts etc etc .. they aren't as tight as 10's but not as wobbly as 15's either ..typically. Of course, we might be approaching this selective and subjective problem from opposite ends but maybe you have to take these generalisations as typical if you seek advice on the internet. You can get more specific when you hear that sound you are looking for...and then 'this' cab sounds like 'this' for me/you.. but there are standard references that are useful and ball park correct...IMO/IME. Go out and watch a band tonight and draw your own conclusions.

3-4 weeks...and I changed them when they get thumpy. Altho I've had a Newtone set on since Xmas..but then I don't noddle around on that bass as often. I change then when the sound goes and when they are a hassle soundwise at gigs. The moment I have to twiddle a dial to bring out the string, they are off.

Love Anthony Jackson

Good call... prefer a more trad colour scheme rather than bling these days, tho.

Always like Sting...more so than the Police band days. He always picks a very good band and I love either Vinnie or Manu.

You ignore all sub versions of Fenders anyway..

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1325778582' post='1487532'] [size=4]Our playing situations might be different but I wouldn't go for less than the TH500. As we've been saying in other threads today, the more power you have the less work your amp has to do.[/size] [/quote] I'm with chris... I don't put much into my signal so I need the extra headroom. Other people might get more beans however they want to do it..but I want the volume to be there withthout pushing EQ excluding internal mappings. Sure, you don't have to take strict notice of watts but you do have to make sure it can go loud enough with your input parameters. I also have the TH pedal so can run that from a power amp ...hmmm might try that in earnest

As with most 5 strings..you need to try them as the B can be marginal. For the money you have mentioned, you need to be happy playing the bass as the quality is not a given on all models. For a 5... the most important thing is the B..if that works, then fine, if not, move on.

Answer to question 1. 10"s are definitely worth considering.. and IMV, the best for bass in a 410 config. Get a decent 410 cab tho as you'll needs those chassis to take proper bass..or you could do a more modular set-up of 2x210 for an easier carry. If you stick with 410...then the old cabs are great but heavy. Something like Eden or SWR goliath cabs are superb and quality kit..albeit showing signs of age..but if you can handle the weight..which a lot can't and that is why they are cheap.. you'll have to go a very long way to beat them, IMO/IME. Apart from the weight, the only downsides to older speakers is getting replacements should you have problems.. 2...always been that way... and 10's predate the mainstream use of 5 and 6 st by some way. 12's and 15's have their fans as you needed size to equate to volume output and 15's were good for 300 watts RMS eons ago... so therefore got popular for that reason alone, pretty much. Nowadays, there is nothing a set of 10's can't do bass wise., IMO.

If I had the gig for it... I might have gone all valve if someone else has to look after it and set it up...and for some gigs something like an Ampeg is all you need. But for what I want now...and the gigs I have, the only thing I'd look out for over my Thunderfunk is a DB750 but then that will sit around for a lot of gigs where I just wouldn't want to lump it around and therefore £1000 s/h is a lot of money to be a backup or limted use frontline amp. If I was touring, I'd go DB750/751 and an SWR SM900/1500 depending on who was paying, maybe. I wouldn't be after a valvey grind now anyway and I switch off all simulation and run clean. Not even fussed about valve pre's either