Spartacus

If you dont want to fiddle on stage you probbaly wont like the East ACG. You might want something to tame the EMG topend a bit so an East BTB would work well i think. Bass boost only, treble cut and boost.

[quote name='KERMITNT' post='541933' date='Jul 16 2009, 09:01 AM']Guys I have a quick question for you about my markbass. Which extension cab you think fits better to my CMD121P? I was thinking adding a new traveler 2x10 cab to extend the range and attack of my sound instead of buying the new York extension cab.. Share your thoughts Thanks[/quote] Traveler 121H or New York 121 could be better as its Not always a good idea to mix speaker sizes like 10 and 12's unless your biamping. Your amp will also be a perfect fit for the NY121 or if you put the 121H on its side (if thats important to you). 121H gives a better low end than the others as well.

Most amps have some sort of gain control or input pad though dont they? Dont know how Veils preamp works but if its didtorting that many input stages its too high IMO. If turnng down the bass volume knobs 'compromises his sound' then maybe look at an East EQ system as their volume controls are more like mixer input strips and atenaute the signal evenly without losing anything. if theres a trimpot for internal preamp gain id adjust that to a reasonable level then use an extrenal [b]boost[/b] pedals if needed for extra kick, thats got to be better than having your bass distorting inputs all over the place?

[quote name='sykilz' post='541658' date='Jul 15 2009, 09:28 PM']hoped technology would allow me to use something smaller, but I guess I need something bigger or much more expensive and small ( which ain`t going to happen, I`m told !!).[/quote] No matter how big your amp might be and no matter how far advanced the technology goes, you can never get cabs that meet more than two out of these three: Go small Go loud Go deep That applies to any maker no matter how small and exspensive

[quote name='Shaker' post='541503' date='Jul 15 2009, 06:26 PM']Thanks for the responses. I wanted to avoid getting a 4x10 as I would struggle to get it in the car (no roadie!) and hoped that there was some brilliantly simple solution. Sounds like there isn't. In fairness, I only want it for the occasional gig where I need the extra oomph. Maybe I should think again. Shaker[/quote] You could maybe upgrade the head to a MAG600? But the speakers would still struggle, MAG cabs seeem to run out of steam quite quickly even in the deep cabs. [quote name='Machines' post='541514' date='Jul 15 2009, 06:40 PM']If 300w with a 410 isn't enough for you I would rethink your whole amp setup. Perhaps go for a higher output amp with a better cab setup ?[/quote] He hasnt got a 410, hes got a 115 and a 210 and doesnt want a 410. But I agree with you

[quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='541151' date='Jul 15 2009, 11:45 AM']A Sansamp or similar device in your signal chain will allow you to cut the volume before you send it to the amp. S.P.[/quote] Sansamps dont really like hot active inputs. if the outputs that hot then it could distort a lot of buffer units. Is there a small trim pot or similar inside the control cavity that you can use to crank the output down a notch? too much output gain isnt a good thing as youre finding, its hard to tame without causing problems further down the signal chain.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='541072' date='Jul 15 2009, 10:37 AM']You'd have hoped that all that extra metal on the outside of the Superfly would act as a heatsink... But obviously not.[/quote] That might have been the idea, the side panels are heavy aluminum but not connected to any internal heatsink to help conduct heat away. Much lighter when you take all that extra crap off!

[quote name='LeftyJ' post='540794' date='Jul 14 2009, 10:17 PM']I wasn't even aware they have been sold outside the US, I always thought it was a US-only model! Or do you mean the old twin-pickup ATK700 of the late '90's, that had a mahogany body with an ash top and the triplecoil moved slightly closer towards the bridge?[/quote] No i mean the current (discontinued?) ATK700 made in korea. Ash body and maple cap. 5 piece maple & walnut neck. Single 3 coil pickup with no scratchplate. Like [url="http://www.imuso.co.uk/ProductDetail.asp?StockCode=EG01890"]this one[/url].

[quote name='NancyJohnson' post='540807' date='Jul 14 2009, 10:28 PM']First off, let me just put on record that the information on this forum is priceless, so thank you for this. I've gone the route above...the output of the bass has increased significantly and dare I say it, it sounds quite lovely, but (always a [i]but[/i], eh?), the bass is pretty noisy; some buzzing/humming.[/quote] Good news Looks like black/yellow are earths then and red/white are outputs. The pickups are humbucking now so its probbaly interferece induced in other wiring. Looking at your second pic above you could have two separate earth paths which could cause the buzzing if one of them isnt connected to ground. Looks like One path between the back of the pots and one path between the lugs. Try using your meter to test continuity between the back of the pots and the lugs where you've solered the black earth wires. If theres high resistance or no continuty then you need to solder a connection between the back of one pot and the earthed lug on the same pot. That could solve your interference problem.

You cant do it without dropping the load below the min 4 ohms or wiring it so one one cab gets a lot more or a lot less power than the others. The 15" speaker is 8 ohms and the 10" speakers are 16 ohms each. Write down all the series and parallel wiring options on a sheet of paper and youll see the best load you can get by running ALL cabs together is to rewire both the 210s in series to make 32 ohms each. The total load is then 5.33 ohms but the 115 would get fully half the power alone. But then the 210s together would make 16 ohms and youd only get about 100W if using them. The 210 and 115 would make 6.4 ohms but the 115 would get about 80% of the power. Why not get anothe Ashdown head to go with the extra 210 cabinet? 180W Electric Blues are about £150 now.

[quote name='simon1964' post='540357' date='Jul 14 2009, 02:35 PM']That's wrong I'm afraid. The contract for sale (and therefore the obligation to sell) isn't concluded until the seller agrees to sell at that price (eg by accepting the cash at the till). As previously posted, until then its an invitation to treat - advertising goods at a particular price is not the same as a formal contractual offer to sell at that price. This was established 50+ years ago in a case called Pharmaceutical Society of Great Britain v Boots Cash Chemists Ltd. A while since I did any contract law, but as far as I'm aware its still the case. Mispricing may result an offence committed under the Trade Descriptions legislation, but that doesn't mean there's an obligation to sell at the marked price.[/quote] You missunderstood me, I meant that it would be a case for Trades Descriptions had they deliberately mispriced the bass, and as the label said 'Jaguar £XXX' it was an obvious mistake, not deliberately misleading. [quote name='simon1964' post='540395' date='Jul 14 2009, 03:31 PM']Boring five minutes at work, so I decided to look at the Trading Standards web site here: [url="http://www.tradingstandards.gov.uk/advice/problemswithgoods-sum3.cfm"]http://www.tradingstandards.gov.uk/advice/...hgoods-sum3.cfm[/url] They say: [font="Comic Sans MS"]The buyer cannot insist that a trader sells anything at the marked price, whether or not the trader has made a mistake. However, action can be taken against the trader for giving a misleading price indication. A number of unfair pricing practices are banned[/font][/quote] Thats what I said, The label said 'Jaguar, £599'. I already said the buyer cant insist the trader sells. It said Jaguar on the label. It was a P-bass. D'oh. Bloody ambulance chasers Nice bass though but not jazz shaped enough

[quote name='spongebob' post='540541' date='Jul 14 2009, 05:48 PM']Hopefully this is also okay to ask here..... but as an extension cab newbie.... What cables do I need to connect the two Markbass 121's - P and New York cab? I've done a bit on a search, and got very confused! I don't want to damage anything, so before I take the plunge..... What do I need, and best place to buy??[/quote] All the markbass heads and most combos have dual speakon/jack outputs. Most of their cabs have speakon inputs. Check the specs for your combo and cab and if both have speakons then id use a speakon-to-speakon cable as they sound much better and are less fragile.

Dodgy lead or loose jack socket connection on the bass. Got another bass you can try or another lead?

[quote name='NancyJohnson' post='540593' date='Jul 14 2009, 06:49 PM']Cable colours/needle settings Red & White - 130 Black/Yellow & White - 80 Black/Yellow & Red - 80[/quote] That doesnt say anything you wouldnt have expected, thats about 7k resistance per coil. it doesnt say anything about which wires relate to which coil and you need to make sure theyre connected in the right [b]phase[/b] or youll get low scratchy output as you describe wther you go for series or parallel. [quote]In answer to another question, the black and yellow wires are pre-soldered to each other and were simply taped up and left to float. The red wire in both cases was soldered to the back of the pot, the white was soldered to the centre tab on the pot. Hopefully this means something![/quote] I [b]think[/b] it means that the pickup was wired like OLP pickups where they use two volume pots to control each coil individually, with coils in parallel. It was soldered to be wired like a musicman pickup (in parallel) but Youve tried to wire it in series mode and i think have wired it out of phase as you say youve got low output. Lets go back to basics and take it slowly one step at a time. What you need to do is 1. desolder all the pickup connections for a start. 2. Use your meter on the resistance or continuity settings to see which cables relate to which coil as follows 3. Use a 100ohms setting and touch one probe to the black wire. Touch the other probe to the other wires until it reads about 80 (8k) and note down which wire shows about 8k when you measure across it and the black. The readings on other two wires should read open circuit. 4. When youve done that, report back OR IF YOU WANT TO SAVE SOME TIME CHECK IF THIS WORKS AS PARALLEL WIRING 1. Desolder the white and red leads from the pots. 2. Solder the black/yellow to the same point where you soldered the red in your pic 3. Solder the white/red together and solder that to the lug where you soldered the white in your pic How does that sound now?

[quote name='Skywalker83' post='538591' date='Jul 12 2009, 04:29 PM']The casing of the Superfly is a major design flaw, the cooling fan is situated of the top of the amp, and then it's covered with the outer casing which is metal plate, which stops all the heat being able to escape.[/quote] Couldnt resist checking this out so stripped all the external metalwork off as you suggested. Mines the 500W version and it has no fan After taking off the top and bottom punched plates, and the side panels, and front handle, I weighed the lot. All that extra baggage weighs 2.6kg or about 6lbs Thanks for the suggestion guys

Looks like it used to be a JapCrap Ricky copy body that someones reshaped to look like a smaller precision and then added a p-bass neck?

[quote name='BOD2' post='540133' date='Jul 14 2009, 11:00 AM']Basically two of the wires need to be soldered together and then the other two are "hot" and "ground", but the question is which two need to be soldered together ?[/quote] Thats for series wiring only. Two pairs need soldering together for paralel wiring. [quote]With a meter and a crocodile clip you could clip various two wires together and measure the resitance across the other two until it starts to make sense.[/quote] True but that wont determine the phase. The resistance isnt important, just needs to identify continuity across each pair to see which wires are attached to each coil then its trial and error to see which will wire it correctly in phase.

[quote name='NancyJohnson' post='539911' date='Jul 13 2009, 11:50 PM']I've soldered the black and yellow together and run the red and white wires as per the Jazz diagram that Dave posted.[/quote] Can I just ask did you solder the black/yellow and leave them floating or solder them anywhere? Did you solder red/white together? Exactrly which wires did you solder where? If you've got low output it suggests that you've shorted the outputs somewhere or have wired each pickup out-of-phase. You could really do with a continuty tester or cheap multimeter to check which wires belong to which coil before proceeding any further. Shoud cost you less than a fiver and its a very handy thing to have.

Anyone at all?

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='539699' date='Jul 13 2009, 08:51 PM']They must be loaded they just bought this, [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110397389296"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=110397389296[/url][/quote] Yeh, their son probbaly asked for a little runabout for his birthday

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='539687' date='Jul 13 2009, 08:43 PM']I think the funny thing here is that someone once paid £120 for it [/quote] Yeh cos they come up fron one seller for about £60 or £70 on buy it now