Downunderwonder

If I had a dollar.....

Today I beat Bassman Paul to the news. It may be a corroded fx loop interrupt switch. Plugging a spare lead into the loop restores signal. Send goes back to return. Or could be a tube but try the patch lead first.

Today's the big day!

I was surprised to learn Keanu Reeves is a bassist in his spare time. Lead actor you would think guitar hero would be first calling.

Mic technique aka Mic Control, very likely lacking.

OP could go that way and have an agreed heavy depreciation schedule. Another way to do it is have the PA as a virtual member of the band. PA gets a half share or something appropriate which goes to the member who takes care of it to cover storing transporting and maintaining. It doesn't cover load in load out and setting the bastard up.

I bet she is a mic hog. Mic hogs use all the gain they can get out of the mic and then overpower it in their strong register. If the engineer lowers the gain so they don't blow it out then they are left lacking down low. Mic control. Mic control. Mic control. Singers' dynamic range is higher than what the electronics can reproduce, something's gotta give. No mic control, no free fully transparent compression.

I believe they are some very boutiquey ones, not pots so much as knob position indicators? Tech21 will set you straight.

So long as you can practice "less is more" with the go button on the rattle can you can avoid the dreaded runs. I have sprayed the odd thing, nothing fancy like a guitar and it's definitely not as easy as he makes it look. A bit of practice on a piece of cardboard first would be a good idea. 'You can always do another coat. You can't take it off again without sanding it.'

Where it gets messy is when the front mouth goes off doing solo/duo stuff with the band's PA.

Twin HPF's and twin BDDI's, because I thought I was going to build a 2nd utility board for backlined gigs and keep the main board together for my other band. You get way less pushback from FOH lackies when the last thing your signal comes from is a BDDI even though its red light is off! HPF mandatory if you don't want to sound like the kid coming down the road in his rat wagon.

I am in two that if I didn't know were actually pretty decent I probably wouldn't pay the money to go see. Neither gigs very often and dates are set well out in front so it's all good with me telling both which is #1 priority. I guess it depends how many gigs this metal outfit is planning on doing. An awful lot of bands have people in them who are in more than one band. Seems original outfits are a bit funny about that, ya gots to be 100% available for when the "big opportunity" happens, yada yada, get a life people! So perhaps a word is in order before you get too far into it.

A brace is all that is required between drivers. Sealed cabs do separate enclosures so that one driver going bad can't take out the rest from losing all the back pressure.

I hope it never gets damp enough in there to make use of that drain! Very strange. Old slaughterhouse or factory?

One of us is misunderstanding the question. Pretty sure the original has one port and it's a cube. Two ports and an internal baffle would be needing two drivers and would do well to be rectangular to the front. So I figure he was asking about doing a 2x8?

Even 100w isn't a guarantee of getting to where you have some dynamic headroom at gig level. Try before you buy. When I subbed 200w for 50w it was just enough to keep some back for a little thump every now and again. With the 50 I was pushing it into distortion just to be heard and nothing else going on.

Someone has taken a fountain pen and tied it to a stick to fake a year onto the serial number. At least you know he made at least 9 before that one. Probably had some chops by then. Same got done to my Gt. Grandad's violin to make it an antique when he bought it, 16"84". Now it is just an old violin that plays ok if a bit on the heavy side of not very light for a violin. Best of luck in getting a nice playable bass out of the deal.

If I was you I'd be high tailing it back to the dealer to trade the mint Stubby back for a CTM-200R. They cost a bit more than double the 30w but they sold you a pup so they should look after you. If they can't get you one toute suite see if they'll lend you something with some poke to do gigs in the meantime.

OP reckoned one of the originals had nasty noises, and some numbnut has put adhesive/sealant on it. Not toast?

My SMX is one of the early ones so it looks just like the SM printed graphic style except more bells and whistles. I must open it up and check no bipolar bear is lurking in there and all corners secure.

Find the official Orange service centre for your neck of the woods. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the factory if you're in driving range. Even if it's not the closest take it to them and tell them what you know and they will fix it good. 'Lukewarm' does not cut the mustard. Just show up with it. The old old ones used to blow the top off one of the capacitors, I don't think it's that either as OP has a perfectly operational power stage.

There's that, and then the chances of the other two going out on you must be pretty bad. You might get a good enough deal buying four and only be up for one lot of shipping. Could be worth it.

Calculate volume missing in your wedge cutout and add it to the front by making the sides and top that much deeper, bottom too but it's smaller for the 45° piece missing, only mention so you don't cut it 'short' AND at 45°. For my money it would be easier to make the box and then run the saw through it at the 45°. Other option tilt the baffle. What gets added at the bottom gets taken away at the top, same volume. Mind the port doesn't get snarled on the bottom, or the driver if you port it from the back. You could even put the port in the side so it goes under the driver sideways.

To be clear, the most you would get from the extra 30w amp, ie twin amps one on each cab, is a measly 3dB. That's what you get from one little bump on a mixer fader so it lights the next light up. Not setting the world on fire.

You could plug an SVT into those puppies but have to stand well back. Point being, just get a bigger amp and be done. 30w is well and good for toneful playtime, until you need to move some air.