Downunderwonder

True enough. Yet you understand the concept of keys, and key signatures that accompany the staff and dots? The dot height is only the raw note name but it is consistent until some Ahole starts with the C flats and A double flats. Look on the bright side.There are only 12 notes and most bass is scored between the low E and the lower F# on the G string. The key of the tune determines how those notes are scored. No C flats or A double flats! You are aware that a major scale has its relative minor pairing using identical written scale with a different starting note. Children initially learn playing very simple tunes and practicing to books of written out scales. My teacher was apt to remind me that pieces are only mixed up scales.

On a dark stage the glare of the knob lights will make the away facing white dot indicators invisible. Dopey design. If the knobs had pointers they would be silhouetted.

No frets = fingerboard, as on a DB.

With that much theory you are streets ahead of me. But I can read dots. I don't actually read the dots though. I think this may be where you are at a disconnect. I read the accidentals and the rhythm pattern. The accidentals tell me I have work to do to escape the scale finger pattern and follow the funky chord. A good teacher should be able to take all your known theory and use that to help you see the patterns in the dots. I reckon you would become a reading machine once the penny drops

Knowing your way around the fretted neck is going to do squat for your fretless playing. It could very well frustrate you. Lines are but a guide. Where you finger notes between frets with great precision you finger 'on' the lines. Good advice taken.

Ordinarily, hell no. You have hit on an exception. I guess Eden have gamed the system a little to give you a cab that is loud but has given away trying to make lows. If you go further down that path you have a guitar cab that can tear your head off with 100w.

It only takes one noisy light to make a hash of your pristine unbalanced signal.

Cash Converters have a history of putting dud returns back on the shelf so be careful.

I don’t know about grades but those bass parts are ideal teeth cutting material. 20 minutes a day and in a week he should be OK to bumble through a new one actually reading it. That's when confidence grows. Reading the music isn't the hard part. The plopping of the fingers in time in the right place is. You already know how to do that!

Chicken, prepare to meet egg, on your face.

Add some little bit of wind and the cure is actually free!

Yep. The tab lines up with the notation. If you would rather play it with more usual fingerings you have to transpose your bass. My advice. Grab the opportunity to learn to read notation and play it on the regular 4 string as written.

The whole thing is odd. TAB is not what you usually get issued. There may be regular notation printed parts for bass in someone's drawer. If so there is a golden opportunity to knuckle down and figure out notation with pop tunes you already know.

I wouldn't mind one on my board just so people would point and ask and I would say something like "Beware the Attack Goat!" before changing the topic.

Nice work if you can get it.

Put up a curtain cloth. Tastefully of course.

Jump on the Big Baby in the classifieds.

A SuperTwin is probably an easier shift than BB3. Roll tilt and shove vs pick up?

Something UL certified would be a good start. A Quilter BB800 is designed for that sort of thing. Compact package.

Cheap. Little bit loud. Tiny. Not happening. Now it's functions. I am making possibly my last post on this thread. Two kinds of functions. LAF and civilized. LAF tend to involve big PA. Civilized is more the small pub gig where they don't want the roof raised. The kind where a Rumble 100 V3 would be absolutely fine. I used one with a full jazz orchestra going for gold. Listening to the previous band I thought it had to have been DI'd. Nope. Maybe 200 people loosely filled. I had my HPF on it and no worries. So, what is going to give? Size or cost? That SWR210 would be fine too btw. As all the old Trace stuff we have seen.

And still not even free dessert because although it could get louder with a tiny amp, most people have an excess of amp power.

Perhaps @stevie would be curious enough to do an autopsy on it. You are dead sure it never got thrashed by a bigger amp when you weren't looking?

Aka no free lunch.

I am not aware of different maths for tubes. As power varies with the square of the voltage and the max of a sine is sqrt2 times the average RMS., square wave being peak to peak of the max ckean sine... you see where I get 2x RMS clean power in square wave.

May as well use a 1000w amp, so long as it stays clean. If you start to overdo it the speakers will let you know by no longer staying clean.