Hacksawbob

Ohhh yes please.

Out of curiosity I thought I'd measure the two whilst I had them out. The pale blue with the maple board is the (mezzo in case you don't know.) I did a couple of pics that the ibanez stats don't give you, which are probably more related to playability. Ie 1-4 fret distance and comparable width at 12th fret. Apologies if this is getting a bit off topic.

I have both, and similarly not huge hands. I have to say if you are above the 10th fret, B E and A stings are almost impossible for me to reach on the mezzo without my thumb getting strained. Not a massive issue as you can get to them elsewhere. What i do appreciate is the 2-5 and 1-4 stretch is a smidge less than the full scale. Its become my goto.

Collection from where?

Its a shame the 3 peak players didn't fancy a monster impromptu lowend accompaniment! I will try and get along to the new date.

Still learning and trying to help. Thanks for your input. Do you think 115 refers to the 110v mains input? Back in the thread it was suggested to get a board from a 115 model and swap it in as there was one on ebay.

Painted necks, relics, stickers, Rick bridges, tort pick guards, plastic knobs, truss rods you have to take the neck off for access. Harley Benton, just the name irritates me! Schaller strap locks. Pickup height screws that don't work properly and get chewed up. Skinny straps, G&L headstocks.

There is a solderable jumper on your ladt picture that you connect for the 15, and presumably desolder for yours. It says '115 jump' on the pcb

I can't find a schemtaic for this, but you never know Behringer might send you one. I'm no expert on this stuff but my general approach is ... Visual inspection look for anything burnt, leaking capacitors, corrosion etc. Obvious stuff like checking if a physical switch has continuity, look for a thermal NTC fuse (black disk) and check fo rcontinuity. Anything like that blue relay with a model number you can lookup its spec sheet and see what it does https://datasheetspdf.com/datasheet/SMIH-05VDC-S-L-A.html. In order to get the DC that runs internally there will be a transformer then a bridge rectifier OR a switch mode power supply like you get in the brick that supplies a laptop, although in my limited experience switch mode is usually too noisy for audio applications. The holes in the board and white lines denote that you are still on the high voltage side there, Follow the traces and see what comes after it. Sometimes voltages are printed on the PCB, carefully (because 240V ) have a poke about with a voltmeter with the negative lead on ground and see if you can determine whether there are any DC voltages after the High side, try not to touch 2 components at once! Sorry just a jumbled mess of stuff there but you are trying to to spot anything that looks wrong or stands out.

Hi, its a fairly straight forward job if the pcb isn't damaged. I'm not local to you unfortunately, and probably not worth the postage. You could try computer/laptop repair shops, usb port repair should be on their radar.

I might be way of the mark here, but if the switched mode power supply is blown then so long as you match the voltage and amps of the original could you not substitute a power supply of similar specs?

sold my Laney Digbeth to Alex, Easy transaction great comms.

They haven't had stock anytime I have checked.

Bought a Polytune from Ander, nice easy transaction. quick postage, as described.

I did think of producing something along these lines. I don't think a printed central pin would work so well either, would be better in metal. Maybe a threaded bar that can be turned? maybe not quick release, more something to change between songs/always on. Also not a big fan of having exposed screw heads and hard edges above the strings. If there's enough interest I could have a go at it.