Hacksawbob
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Everything posted by Hacksawbob
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Looking good @anrque I'll take a look inside and see if there's any debris. I have a router but it scares me using it, I toyed with the idea round over but it is so full of screws now it's probably not a good idea. Here's my latest handy work Whith the carpet tiles on the inside. Also testing a couple of smaller radius port terminations to get a what the cookbook mentions as an asymentric port. This one has a hard edge on the underside and in my 'armchair audio designer' head I think it might be better with a teardrop profile, so printing a replacement now. I'm also going to need a few differrent pipe section lengths cut for port length testing, but the chop saw was a bit tricky trying to rotate a long pipe length to get a clean edge, so I might make a jig out of the spare ply. Also added 4 more bolt fixings to cinch down the middle of the baffle, I bought an adapter for the drill so I can get the 10mm screw bolts out quickly.
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Yes @Phil Starr just the 4 bolts at the minute, I'll add some screws at some point but the 24mm thick baffle is pretty solid despite the holes in it,I'll add some more bolts at the cardinal points when I can get a trip to Wilkos. At the moment I have the back on and off almost daily, once I have setled on a design I'll seal it off properly. I have added carpet tiles on the internal panels with spray adhesive and staples. Seemed like a good idea with the rubberised back and carpet material on the front. I have run some frequency sweeps and what I thought was some distortion was actually a computer case that was rattling at about 60Hz
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So here is my attempt at rehousing the Scorpion speaker, not as nice as your workmanship! @anrque but it is functional. It very loud, possibly louder than the original Combo amp. It's a very full 'airy' sound that envelops you unlike the original cab which was quite punchy and focused, it is very responsive and manages the low B on the 5 string with ease. The weight is far more managable! I used 12mm hardwood ply (B&Q) which is £34 a sheet and 4 2M lengths of 20x25mm batton (actually two of these were 1x1 inch from a local timber merchant after I ran out but it works with either of these) total cost was about £50 The screws for the carcass were 6X 1 1/4" or 3.5x30mm in new money. I am handy with drills and what not, but I am no cabinet maker so excuse the rough build quility, I'm more of an IT guy I used some chunkier screws for the speaker itself, the baffle is held on whith coach bolts with some washers to spread the load, they just came out of one of those pick and mix bags you get from Wilkinsons (apologies if they are not in your area it might be more of a Northern thing.) I originally designed the front baffle to sit back in a 12mm recess, but I used some 12mm foam sealing so it ended up being flush at the front which isn't ideal, I may well revisit this with some thinner material. The ports are 3D printed to fit a 4" waste pipe, with a 73mm length, I measured this from the right angle mounting point so I think from memory it was about 38mm of waste pipe required which I cut on a chop saw and used mastic to seal it as it's so short I didn't need any additional support, the front is screwed on with the same screws I use for pickguards. there is also a port flare on the inside. The port flare ends did a great job of hiding the dodgy jigsawing that I did in the baffle! They are printed grey stone type filament as I have a load of it to get rid of and I sent Phil my black ones, I decided to add some printed corner protectors in the same colour as well. Handle and feet on the bottom of the cab were robbed off the original amp. I will add the cut sheet, this assumes a 4mm blade thickness which will just allow you to get the cuts on a 1.22X2.44 Meter sheet, (total 1.212M of material) You might want to check with the saw operator what the kerf is as they can vary between setups, also, bring a tape measure and check each cut as it comes off. I have added the amp front to this cut sheet which I wasn't sure about the exact dimensions so is missing from the photo. I have allowed for 4X front and back panels, this would allow you to make either or both 24mm thick by screwing and glueing them togeher, (or to allow for a mistake cutting the baffle) Things to do: I am toying with the idea of adding a 4 inch tweeter as the TNT160 has a crossover out, and piping this to a second practice amp which I can fit under the main amp, this might also help to balance out the head as the transformer weight makes the head carry at an angle. Also, I might add some wadding/foam internally once I have had a chance to put a frequency sweep through it. Speaker needs some protection, not sure which way I'm going to go with this possibly some speaker material rather than a grill as I think they look a bit pants. Cutsheet TNT160 cab and head.pdf
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Orange 414 in Rhyl FB marketplace. £300 if anyone's looking.
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And the magic number is 177mm radius to cut the hole for the Peavey Scorpion 15" speaker.
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I have a box of sorts, 24mm front baffle, approx 64L internal after speaker and port subtraction I should be in the ball park of 55L Now, how to gain access if I need to. It will need to be top or bottom opener if I'm going to fix the front panel. I'm guessing some foam strips to seal it. If it's the bottom panel I guess the weight on it will be in my favour. I suspect the centre of gravity will be too far forward on this, a bit late now though
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I do have black pipe, I just used a spare bit of grey so you can see the join. It's not quite an interference fit on this but very close. I'm not sure how much variation you get in pipe, but better to be marginally over than under as it can always be glued, where as the other way means faffing with sandpaper. I did give this a quick sand to remove the supports and a quick coat of black paint
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Hi Phil, for all the help and support you give here I'd quite happily send you a couple for for evaluation, you can keep them if you like them. If you have any design adjsutments just let me know, I can PM you the dimensions. Tricky to get an exact figure on 3D printing costs, electricity wear and tear etc it's probably about £5 per port + design hours and prototyping costs which you divide among the number you expect to sell which is an unknown Got all the plywood in today although the saw operator didn't seem to know the thickness of the kerf so I may have a few adjustments to make.
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I had another go ast the port design The first one for the external. The second one has a tighter curve, I had a read of that cookbook you mentioned Phil, there is some suggestion that asymetric ports may be beneficial. I'll print both and try them out. I'm not sure whare to take the measurement from though for the port length? I'm going to get some ply today. I'm thinking the front baffle will be made of double 12mm ply which should give some stability there. I am hoping to keep the rear with just 12mm to keep the weight down.
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Here's what I am thinking may be a possibility with an internal volume of 66L give or take made from 12mm ply. Unless anyone can see anything wrong I'll see if I can get a cut sheet together. I'm not sure on bracing which seems to be necessary on the 12 inch speaker build though. Dimensions are in mm 616W X300D X437H (external).
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Sorry to hijack your thread!
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Maybe something more like this...
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Thnaks for that, great information. I've had a quick look at cross over design but it seems like just this part of the build would take a lifetime of research so I'll leave the option for future addition. If you know of any resources that can explain it clearly I'd appreciate it. I had a tinker in in Fusion today and came up with this, an adjustable port 4 inch internal diameter (internal) which can adjust from about 40-80mm length with threaded tubes. It's quite a long print, probably take a couple of days so I might need to optimise it, but you get the gist. I might look at converting an existing 4 inch pipe with an interferance fit (can be glued once you find your sweet spot). But if I know the range of port lengths for various bass frequencies it might reduce the variables and therefore the print times/materials.
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That's great thanks, I think I can work it out OK, ideally i'd reuse the amp in a separate unit so that defines the width and depth to some degree. the height would hopefully make up the remainder. I take it you remove the volume of the speaker itself? some sort of cone pi calculation which I probably missed in an 80's maths lesson I could have it cut out of ply at local timber merchants/ B&Q, I can cut the holes with a jigsaw. I'm OK with soldering electrics so long as I have a schematic to work to. I could 3D print the port, is there any benefit to having it a straight cylinder (soil pipe!) or is there something more efficient, rolled edges/ vortex like/ bends? seeing as I am handy with Fusion 360 I may as well use it. But I am really in the dark as to what it all does, so following you blindly! Any benefit to adding a tweeter like on the 12 build? I dare say this is a whole other can of worms but your advice is greatly appreciated.
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Hi Following with interest, I bought a Peavey TNT 160 Which has the same Scorpion 15" speaker. I bought it as a fixer upper but it didn't need a great deal doing to it, mostly cosmetic and a new jack socket which is all sorted now. After having played it a couple of weeks the sound is really growing on me, but the the weight of the thing, it has it's own event horizon! Definitely a younger fitter persons amp. I am like yourself in that I just need something to play around the house and can be moved out of the way if necessary. All these graphs mean nothing to me though. I am fairly handy with tools so I think making a box is within my skill set, probably not a pretty one though! I'm be interested in further details the dust cover you mentioned on the speaker, I took it out briefly to check for damage but I didn't see anything that resembled 30 year old foam.
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I had a similar issue on a fretless. Although I wanted the lines more pronounced rather than the dots. I tried two things which are both reveresable, water slide transfers and vinyl. The water slides worked OK but were very fragile and a bit of a bugger to apply . I've had the vinyl on for a few weeks and it seems nore robust. They are both a less than a tenner off Ebay. I had the lines but I'm sure there will be dots out there somewhere for model makers. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153990019923 Edit, sorry just saw your not interested in stickers... -
4 packs 5 string bass guitar strings unopened or £15 for a set delivered UK. -
That's my dream bass right there, sadly funds won't allow. GLWTS. -
Collection prefered BL6 6NN. I can deliver for fuel money within reason. I bought this as a non working amp and I have repaired it. There was a small area of corrosion on the input stage possibly from liquid, I have cleaned it up and retouched the solder and the amp now works perfectly. I fix laptops in my day job so working on something big like this is a doddle, I also gave all the pots and input jacks a good clean out with servisol so they are crackle free now. I replaced the fan with a new one as the original was badly repaired. I checked all the inputs and outputs are all working as they should be, although I don't have a footswitch so I am unable to check that. It's a very loud amp when at full throttle, but there is an attenuator dial on the back which enables the gain stage and effects to be fully engaged but output is reduced for home use. Some very useful amp simulators and effects, see the blurb from Vox at the end for their description. Any test welcome, I'll warn the neighbours first! Please see pictures for condition, there are some marks on the covering, The centre handle is missing but to be honest unless you are Geoff Capes I'd say this is a two handle carry and the outer two hadles are in good condition, replacements are about £7. (it doesn't stink of fags by the way) Blurb from Vox:- The VOX AD100VT packs the amazingly versatile tube sound of Valvetronix into a funky 100 W 2X12 Combo. The VOX AD100VT features the patented VOX Valve Reactor circuit that uses a 12AX7 triode vacuum tube together with an actual low-wattage tube power amp circuit, a virtual output transformer and a dummy speaker circuit that simulates the impedance changes of a real speaker. It also reconfigures itself so that its characteristics are the same as the amps it’s modeling (class A, class AB, negative feedback circuit, etc.). A total of eleven coveted amp types are provided. Starting with the classic AC30 and ranging from vintage to modern, higain to clean, a variety of amp models are built-in, giving you an incredible range of sound-creating potential. Nine standard effects indispensable for any guitarist are built-in. These include auto wah, compressor, phaser, chorus, flanger, tremolo, rotary, delay and reverb. With the addition of combination-type effects, you have a total of eleven effects to choose from. The Vox AD100VT lets you adjust the output wattage from 1~100W so you can lower the volume without losing the sense of drive that’s unique to tube amps. You can get the great distinctive tube sound at a volume that’s appropriate for any location. Vox AD100VT main features include: * Number of amp types: 11 * Number of effects: 11, Noise reduction: 1 * Number of programs: 11 preset, 2 channel. * Input/output jacks: Top panel – 1 x INPUT. Rear panel – 1 x FOOT SW , 1 x LINE/ PHONE, 1 x LOOP RETURN Jack, 1 x LOOP SEND Jack, 1 x EXTERNAL SPEAKER OUT * Power amp output: maximum 100W RMS @ 8 ohms * Adjustable Output Wattage * Speaker: 2 x 12 inch VOX oringinal 16 ohm * Signal processing A/D conversion: 24-bit, D/A conversion: 24-bit, Sampling frequency: 44.1 kHz. * Power supply requirements: AC, local voltage. * Power consumption: 100W * Dimensions: 55.3cms (21.77") (H) x 68.4cms (26.93") (W) x 26.8cms (10.55") (D) * Weight: 29kg (63.93lbs) -
Lee Sklar's Frakenbass would be nice if such a thing existed.
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Added some stacked pots and knobs to the bb425 today for 'fun'. Interesting variations available and just replacing the pots from the originals has whipped a few electrons into line as it does seem a bit more presence/brighter. I went with my usual 0.1uf so I have sparkle down to pure mud option. I changed the switch to after the pots so I have independent control on single pickup selection. Centre needs a bit more work as I think might have to fit some resistors for prevent the volumes fighting in the centre position. But happy with the experiment so far. Any one else tried this?
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OK I'll own up 🤣
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🤯 Looks better in real life than in the photos! GLWTS
