Hacksawbob

If you don't have an amp already it might be.

I've often wondered if there is such a thing as a variable passive crossover much like a tone control. But instead of rolling off the highs it rolls off the lows to a tweeter. I realise I'm showing my ignorance here, but I'm curious, wouldn't this give you far more leeway when designing a cabinet? There seems to be a lack of off the shelf availability which would suggest there's a good reason why this isn't more common, although you do seem to find variable passive tweeter filters on a few hifi speakers and some bass cabinets I believe.

Tried a few different browsers, (firefox and chrome) on OSX and android, cleared cookies logged back in etc. I'm not getting any results. tested with a common word like yamaha and still no joy.

...Or you get one from the same batch with the same issue.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322519387326?epid=885878986&hash=item4b17a74cbe:g:4hoAAOSwxvBZofei still taking the fosters a bit but works out cheaper. go off the mfr part number on the mouser site and see if you can find a UK supplier.

Actually, I think these would meet your needs, they have a 9.5 mm threaded part. 500K https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Bourns/PDB182-GTRB1-504MN?qs=MAZTpT1IVl9qmb3edCk6rA%3D%3D 250K https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Bourns/PDB182-GTRB1-254MN?qs=MAZTpT1IVl9TMc4dn4srkA%3D%3D

Hi Pat, might be sticking my neck out a bit but I have a similar problem and my be able to 3d print an adapter for short to long shaft to make it to a through body mounted pot. I could only find knurled split shaft 1M short pots for the active pickup project I'm working on at the mo. It may be possible to swap bits out from simiar manufacturer to create your own custom pot, but it can get a bit spendy though. I'm still early days with the adapter, I'm not sure if there is the clearance to make it work without drilling or aestheticly displeasing gaps but I'll keep you posted if I find a solution.

Hi I'm only down the road in Horwich, I could probably 3d print you something pm if interested.

Just went into the shop where I bought my 425X and found out that it used to belong to the new Queen bassist Neil Fairclough.

I have a BB425 wired with two concentric pots VT VT + switch and BB305f wired VVT, I found both of these an improvement over the stock config with more blend options.

Looking good @anrque I'll take a look inside and see if there's any debris. I have a router but it scares me using it, I toyed with the idea round over but it is so full of screws now it's probably not a good idea. Here's my latest handy work Whith the carpet tiles on the inside. Also testing a couple of smaller radius port terminations to get a what the cookbook mentions as an asymentric port. This one has a hard edge on the underside and in my 'armchair audio designer' head I think it might be better with a teardrop profile, so printing a replacement now. I'm also going to need a few differrent pipe section lengths cut for port length testing, but the chop saw was a bit tricky trying to rotate a long pipe length to get a clean edge, so I might make a jig out of the spare ply. Also added 4 more bolt fixings to cinch down the middle of the baffle, I bought an adapter for the drill so I can get the 10mm screw bolts out quickly.

Yes @Phil Starr just the 4 bolts at the minute, I'll add some screws at some point but the 24mm thick baffle is pretty solid despite the holes in it,I'll add some more bolts at the cardinal points when I can get a trip to Wilkos. At the moment I have the back on and off almost daily, once I have setled on a design I'll seal it off properly. I have added carpet tiles on the internal panels with spray adhesive and staples. Seemed like a good idea with the rubberised back and carpet material on the front. I have run some frequency sweeps and what I thought was some distortion was actually a computer case that was rattling at about 60Hz

So here is my attempt at rehousing the Scorpion speaker, not as nice as your workmanship! @anrque but it is functional. It very loud, possibly louder than the original Combo amp. It's a very full 'airy' sound that envelops you unlike the original cab which was quite punchy and focused, it is very responsive and manages the low B on the 5 string with ease. The weight is far more managable! I used 12mm hardwood ply (B&Q) which is £34 a sheet and 4 2M lengths of 20x25mm batton (actually two of these were 1x1 inch from a local timber merchant after I ran out but it works with either of these) total cost was about £50 The screws for the carcass were 6X 1 1/4" or 3.5x30mm in new money. I am handy with drills and what not, but I am no cabinet maker so excuse the rough build quility, I'm more of an IT guy I used some chunkier screws for the speaker itself, the baffle is held on whith coach bolts with some washers to spread the load, they just came out of one of those pick and mix bags you get from Wilkinsons (apologies if they are not in your area it might be more of a Northern thing.) I originally designed the front baffle to sit back in a 12mm recess, but I used some 12mm foam sealing so it ended up being flush at the front which isn't ideal, I may well revisit this with some thinner material. The ports are 3D printed to fit a 4" waste pipe, with a 73mm length, I measured this from the right angle mounting point so I think from memory it was about 38mm of waste pipe required which I cut on a chop saw and used mastic to seal it as it's so short I didn't need any additional support, the front is screwed on with the same screws I use for pickguards. there is also a port flare on the inside. The port flare ends did a great job of hiding the dodgy jigsawing that I did in the baffle! They are printed grey stone type filament as I have a load of it to get rid of and I sent Phil my black ones, I decided to add some printed corner protectors in the same colour as well. Handle and feet on the bottom of the cab were robbed off the original amp. I will add the cut sheet, this assumes a 4mm blade thickness which will just allow you to get the cuts on a 1.22X2.44 Meter sheet, (total 1.212M of material) You might want to check with the saw operator what the kerf is as they can vary between setups, also, bring a tape measure and check each cut as it comes off. I have added the amp front to this cut sheet which I wasn't sure about the exact dimensions so is missing from the photo. I have allowed for 4X front and back panels, this would allow you to make either or both 24mm thick by screwing and glueing them togeher, (or to allow for a mistake cutting the baffle) Things to do: I am toying with the idea of adding a 4 inch tweeter as the TNT160 has a crossover out, and piping this to a second practice amp which I can fit under the main amp, this might also help to balance out the head as the transformer weight makes the head carry at an angle. Also, I might add some wadding/foam internally once I have had a chance to put a frequency sweep through it. Speaker needs some protection, not sure which way I'm going to go with this possibly some speaker material rather than a grill as I think they look a bit pants. Cutsheet TNT160 cab and head.pdf

Orange 414 in Rhyl FB marketplace. £300 if anyone's looking.

And the magic number is 177mm radius to cut the hole for the Peavey Scorpion 15" speaker.