Nobatron

Sounds like a normal P bass recorded dry to me. An amp sim would probably get you closer to where you want to be. If you haven't already you should grab the free Amplitube SVX SVT sim whilst it's still available.

I've not heard the 2x8 cabinet but other recent 2x8s sound impressive in videos. I just got the BAM200 and I'm happy with it so far. Packs a lot of punch for a tiny package. And if it's the rig that's in the for sale section at the moment it's a great price for the package.

My Markbass was after gain for both switch positions which fees like it would be easier to implement.

Yep, and if it’s switchable between the two it’ll almost certainly be be post gain. Easy enough to put a DI box before the amp if the gain is a problem anyway.

I’ve PM’d it to you. Worth mentioning the sale has nothing to do with me

If you’re in the UK there is a pair of Vanderkley 1x12 cabs in the for sale section for a very reasonable price that would be well worth considering.

Yeah. I’m not arguing with that. With tube amps where you might want to introduce some clipping for taste different sounds but when recording or with live sound it is a bit more of a science. Especially if digital is involved.

Cool bass. I think as others have said it would probably sell for a considerable amount less than it would if it had a the original luthier’s on the headstock. If you are able to link it to Overwater with proof (I.e. an email from Chris saying they built it) then it would likely fetch considerably more though. The Overwater by Tanglewood line was much more recent but I’m not clued up on Overwater history so it’s not to say there wasn’t a link between the companies at that time.

This discussion comes up quite often in live sound discussions like this reddit post and the general consensus is that gain is gain and it doesn’t matter where it is added with regards to gain before feedback. The only way I can see boosting the gain causing more feedback than the fader is if the preamp doesn’t boost gain evenly across the frequency spectrum and I’m not aware of any desks with preamps that do this.

Depends on the amp. My last 2 took the DI after the preamp.

Another consideration is if you’re using a DI out from your amp to the PA most amps send the DI after gain so having the gain low and the master high will raise the noise floor on the DI signal.

So we can have gigs as long as there is no audience and no sound? Marvellous.

He has some solid advice but I often find his playing is more technique than groove, which is cool to see live but not something I'd sit and listen to. One of those 'do as I say, not as I do' situations.

Does it need to be a mixer or just an interface? If you need a mixer I'd look at the Behringer XR-18 or X32 Rack. These will both output to a DAW over USB. The other XR series units only output a stereo mix to USB so won't do what you want. Anything in the X32 series will output full multitrack.

Yes, both the internal speaker and the external cab will need to be 8 ohms.

Sadly this is my experience as well. My Black Line LM 250 won't come out of protect. I contacted a local amp repair shop who were recommended to me and they explained that they're not really repairable at a component level and that the D in class D stands for disposable! Real Electronics quoted me £69 + parts + £15 shipping back, and £35 if not repaired. That doesn't include shipping to them so you're looking the best part of £100 plus parts (no idea how much that would have been). In my case I decided to get a new TC Electronics BAM200 for £130 which I think is a small step down but to pay £30 more (possibly less depending on parts) to get a known working new amp with 3 years warranty was worth it to me. Also the tiny size was in it's favour! It seems like with most modern electronics there is a repairability tradeoff with the smaller overall package you get with class D.

For a beginner basically anything should be fine as long as it works. There's always lots of second hand gear that's good if it doesn't need to be lightweight. I just bought a TC Electronic BAM200 and it's great for the £130 I spent brand new though I'm on my second after having problems with the fan on the first. No aux in on it though. That Peavey in the for sale section is a lot of amp for the money also.

If your combo has a spare speaker output you should be able to plug any 8 ohm cab into that. A lot of TE combos use a short jack out of the cab to go into the head. If the head only has one output you might need to make a splitter cable to hook up another cab as well as the internal speaker. The important thing is to check the impedance of the internal speaker. If it's 8 ohm you're good to go. If it's 4 ohm then you won't be able to hook up another speaker at the same time. Perhaps someone more familiar with that model will know the impedance of the speaker.

If you usually go through a DI at a gig then headphones will give you a better idea of how it will sound through a PA than your bass cab will. Generally when I practice at home I plug straight into an audio interface and use headphones as I prefer the sound and I don't have to worry about bothering people with it. Given most of my gigs have PA support and a lot are on in ears headphones probably gives me a closer practice setup than using an amp anyway.

I'll name them once the return is accepted / completed. They quarantine returned goods for 48 hours at the moment.

Quick update. I sent the video to the retailer who I bought it from and they agreed it doesn't sound right. They sent me a replacement unit and collected the defective one in a single courier interaction (quite happy with that service). I've plugged the new one in and the fan does sound healthier, no knocking to speak of so far and it hasn't spun up to takeoff levels yet. I'm sat about 1.5 meters away and can hear the fan whine in an otherwise silent room. It's a laptop size fan so unsurprisingly it sounds like a laptop under a light load. I'd say it's quieter but higher pitched than the fan in my Markbass LM 250 Black Line. So I think the new unit has proven that the old one was faulty.

The headstock will be tilted so shouldn't need a string tree. The tilted headstock and zero fret is a feature on most Maruszczyk basses. This is mine straight on, also specced with a 38mm nut. I can pull the string over the side of the fretboard if I try like in your video but it's never been a problem for me. I would try, as others have suggested, to reposition the nut and if that doesn't solve your problem you could try heavier gauge strings or get a replacement nut with the slot cut further in. If you don't want so ship it back this should be an easy job for any local luthier.

Usually I find with anything wireless the cheap stuff is a false economy. In terms of IEMs I've pretty much always used wired which I'd definitely recommend if you don't have the budget for a decent wireless setup. My band use the Behringer P2 which sounds great to me. I'd definitely recommend that over the Behringer MA400 as that doesn't have a balanced input so requires some funky wiring to get a useable signal from a balanced output. If you can return the cheap stuff and buy wired you'll save yourself some money and probably a headache down the line. With the seal I'd recommend playing with the different available sleeves before looking to get custom ones. The drummer in my band bought moulded sleeves for his and quickly switched back to the stock ones. He's now awaiting delivery on some moulded IEMs, but he didn't recommend the moulded sleeves when I asked him. I'd try out the different sizes and make sure you're inserting them properly before looking to buy something new.

+1 on the Wilkinsons if you can find some 5 string pickups. Got one of their P pickups in my P bass and it sounds great.