warwickhunt

It really is difficult and you'll need to try them as I've tried a couple of Barefaced cabs in the past and they will be tonally 'nothing' like the TC RS212.

I was putting myself through Uni as a mature student... I had a mortgage to pay.

Honestly I was good but they wanted note perfect 'at the audition', which I could have done if I got the gig. If I'm honest the band weren't right for me and I wasn't right for them; I'm chilled and go with the flow, they wanted stuff as it was recorded on the studio album, learned from the get-go.

I've been to see enough bands to know that the 'singer' rarely sings the recorded part never mind the bass player, added to which I love making my own bits. However, if a bass part has an absolute recognisable part (Money) you can't alter it. Saying that, I once auditioned for a Simply Red tribute band (it was a while ago) and learned the 'gist' intending to busk the rest (I had the best of it nailed and was confident in the passing notes/phrases)... I was shown the door in about 10 minutes... sometimes you have to learn it note for note.

Hey, even the neck pocket is stamped 'Pale Blue'! Love a Sterling... but dislike that dark blue, so it's win/win for me!

My skin was breaking out in cuts, scratches and gouges just looking at that restring! I've also never heard Money played in 4/4 before!

Be aware the RS range (2x10 1x12 2x12 4x10 or 1x15) are the ones I'm talking about; I've tried other TC cabs (cheaper) and they are not a patch.

TC RS210 (21kg) - It isn't a '15' but research will show that speaker diameter increase doesn't necessarily mean increase in bass. I have a pair of these (used with Handbox WB100 valve amp) and they give me a full, fat, deep yet punchy tone. I've had plenty of experience with that honky/boxy sound and I hate it!

Nailing their colours to the mast with their target audience then.

Good call to let it settle. Not all necks respond straight away and being a natural material, wood needs to find its own way and different cuts/timbers/constructions do it at different rates. MM necks are pretty consistent and good quality so hopefully it'll not be an issue.

Correct, I don't know you but I do know Chris. What you've said 'is' my point and we are saying the same things. If someone with experience were to pick up a bass they'd know within 5 seconds what probably needs adjusting and/or if there is an issue that might come to light. I was basing my comments on the assumption that the OP isn't that experienced and lots of info/opinions re. adjusting truss rods possibly isn't the first course of action for a newbie. It's far too easy to dive straight into truss rod adjustments BUT that is the one thing that can go badly wrong. The user could be unfamiliar and adjust the wrong way (as you know not all rods are installed righty/tighty but most advice/tutorials will tell you to adjust thus), use the wrong sized allen key/screwdriver (hopefully not the latter on the former but I've seen it done) etc and it could exacerbate an issue. Conversely, starting with a nice easy adjustment on the bridge MIGHT take the action to where the OP wants to be. I likewise agree with your comment that there MAY be an issue somewhere, hence the bridge adjustment first (IF you don't have much experience). We'll get there in the end.

I think if you have experience (ie Beedster), you get a 'feel' for what needs doing and don't always follow one route. During Lockdown I've bought 4 basses (I put the Lockdown bit in to justify the purchases) and none arrived ready to go for me. I literally pick a bass up and look at it, plonk a few notes and can pretty much gauge if I need to adjust saddles, truss rod or even the nut (the last one being rarely). I then set about doing the most obvious and then fettle it in increments from there. Rarely does a bass just need either/or truss rod/bridge adjustment when it comes to getting an instrument to play how you like. I'm with Beedster that a bass maxxed out on the saddles and too high to comfortably play (for the new owner) would be a case of bringing them down to a mid point... though I sometimes adjust to the point they are almost flat on the board and go from there and then seeing how things 'feel'! On the point of 'feel' I've never used a feeler gauge or other measuring device in 40 years of playing/setting up basses. Early days I used to pay to have a bass set up and I can appreciate that sometimes the pro's need to have points of reference especially if they don't know a customer. However, once I sussed what a set up is all about, I just started tweaking and fettling to my heart's content.

SSII style inlays or are they stickers?

If it is a Stingray OR Sterling and it has this legend on the back of the headstock then it is the 'proper' USA version and not any of the confusing lower spec models... which might or might not be as good as the USA version!

Daft thing is that there are lots of good clues that this may well be (or at least have parts) a 70's P bass. However, it just 'feels' a bit off and I'd have bells ringing. Saying that I'm sceptical because I've heard/seen how easy it is to paint/stamp/code Fender parts to look authentic.

He's adding even more comments from helpful buyers... but I feel he still hasn't nailed his colours to the mast and personally stated it defo is a 70's P bass. Even his comment that 'apparently' it was inspected by R Bush seems non-committal.

I bet yours sold within 24 hrs? Probs sold yours too cheap and you'll need to be on the ball to get one at that price... on any given day.

Not sure condition is that important when you are talking 'Rays. The £700 ones were never 'common' and tended to get snapped up. As soon as you head toward 4 figures, folks start to get twitchy with actually putting hands into pockets.

Really? I'd say they've been consistently undervalued. Anything from £700 - £1000 for a bog-standard bass I'd consider 'normal'.

I've owned a DB750 which some will say is the pinnacle of Aggie tone and I have to say I've had a few amps since the 750 and they sounded better (imho), including a Thunderfunk 550 and TF750 which were superb with a pair od db112's. I sold the Aggie cabs and I've settled on the TC RS210 cabs which stacked vertically are a great gig solution... not something you need to worry about.

I'll predict that you will getting a bewildering array of answers! £1200 - £1300 is a shedload of money for 2nd hand gear... for use at home! Anyone with anything to sell will convince you their amp/cab combo will get you the tone you want... what is wrong with the PJB?

TBH you own a bass 16 years but don't know it is a 70's P bass... you're also happy to (re)post that 'someone has said it's a 70's Fender' but not actually say it yourself or do the research to prove it and get a better price? The fact that he is happy to show pics of the neck and pocket is great but why doesn't he just say 'this is a 75 P bass this is my proof'? I agree the pup looks new and I'd not think that type of logo'd pup would be 16 + years old.

The best amp that had no valves and was 'Solid State' old school has to be the GK 800RB