warwickhunt

I can imagine something like the East preamp would be a different tonal slant altogether as it can tone shape/filter in a very different way to a standard 2-3 band preamp; LukeFRC fitted an East pre to a SSI and by all accounts it was a game changer. Strings on basses IMHO is a massively overlooked aspect of tone. We all have our own preferences for gauge and material (for some people, down to the string core shape). At it's most basic level, a set of new strings can make a bass come alive with harmonics and feel (especially if you try a gauge you've maybe not had) but I suspect that some string types are better suited to certain basses than others. Whether it is the string (density/material/structure or whatever) reacting with the pup (type/material/proximity) or the string reacting to the bass (wood material/construction/etc) I don't know but some basses I've had sounded pants with certain strings yet chuck a different type/gauge/brand on and it changes and I'm not saying putting new strings on will improve a bass but it is a given that it will sound different. I have a Streamer that has had the same set of round wound strings on for 4-5 (is it 6 now) and I've tried putting new strings on and it sounds lifeless with new strings (D'Addario and/or Rotosound lately). Not lacking in top end but the whole spectrum of sound is lacking YET they are the same gauge (if I measure with gauge) and material as replacement strings... annoyingly, I've no idea what these strings are as they came from another bass and at the time I was experimenting with lots of other string types (but all nickel 45-105). Conversely, I've taken these (old) strings and put them on another Streamer and they don't make much difference to that bass which itself DOES take well to the new strings. All anecdotal and unscientific but strings on basses is the next 'Heft/Class D/Speaker diameter/fingerboard material'!

I've tried them and don't like them but that's not too say they are a bad cab or not to someone else's taste... each to their own and vive la difference.

'W' neck profiles have changed through time and across the range but tbh I'd not have a clue if that applied to the 6 string basses... I'd assume not as their mass must be dictated to a greater degree than say a 4 string. Likewise I doubt 6 string basses have the 'broad neck' option.

I'd have thought a 6 string Thumb before 91 would have been a custom order... in the 80's period of Warwicks even a 5 string was a rare bird! Warwick started in 82 though the Thumb (4) didn't arrive till 85 iirc. You do get mid/late 80's 5 string Thumbs but 6 strings weren't 'fashionable' back then so I doubt there was a demand for them to produce for stock. Lots of the 80's basses had an element of hands on work, which became less so as production techniques changed. Into the 90's and 00's you had a lot higher number production, so 5/6 string basses would be regular production.

If you register on the Warwick Forum you'll find various threads to Thumb history. The 6 string is a whole other beast to other Thumb basses as they weren't around when you are talking about the skinny neck period in W history (when many of the truss rod issues were happening). Oddly I can't recall the Thumbs ever having these issues with truss rods which could be due to the multi-laminate construction and certainly 6 string necks would be solid. Pups - Early days (pre W 6 string bass) you could get virtually any pup you wanted just by asking the dealer that stocked Warwicks; Bartolini, EMG, Seymour Duncan, even Alembic; at this point no MEC. In fact the early basses had way more EMG pups than Bartolini or any of the other brands, Alembic being the least common. Warwick then bought MEC in the late 80's and produced their own pups to drop into Warwicks but you could still order your Warwick with other pups if you paid the premium. Differences between the different brands get discussed regularly and everyone has their own take on favourite. I personally reckon there's very little in it between most of the brands (Bartolini maybe have a different characteristic) and I once did a blind test between EMGs and MECs in the same bass and me and another guy could not have said which was which. I've owned 4 string Warwicks with all of the flavours (except Alembic) and I find that there is more tonal difference in changing string brands than there is in pups.

This wasn't a back street guitar shop, it was a 'National' UK company. The bass was unplayable and all I wanted to do (and explained in great detail) was to drop the bridge screws to make it playable. "Buy the bass THEN you can do what you want" was the thrust of the sales pitch.

No sales pitch as I've sold mine but if you can find a HK Bassbase 600 (used prices £225 - £350), you'd have a hell of an impressive old school amp but with features that would put many modern heads to shame. 600w @ 4 ohms (but will go down to 2 ohms / 1050w), switchable channel with own EQ, Notch Filter and if you fit the module they are midi adapted.

^^^ This.

Speakon is the better connector but it is as much about the cable.

I have a theory... My theory stems from an experience in the store of a big music chain. I picked up a bass I was interested in and the action was unplayable, I asked the assistant if I could have an allen keys to drop the saddles. That wasn't happening, manager stepped in etc; nope you are not adjusting the bass till you've paid for it. I had a discussion about all of the ins/outs and that if I broke it adjusting it after I'd bought it, then it was coming back to them any way. I left sans bass. In that discussion it was pointed out that they had a technician who (after I bought the bass) could, 'for a fee' set the bass up. Call me cynical but do basses go out set up like dogs so that guys in shops can make a bit extra?

Dave Wilson. Good enough for me... and Sobell Guitars.

I think the modified Squier/cheapie might be the way forward then.

Yes, this was asked and answered above. I prefer the P bass aesthetically but I have a P bass, I have a PJ bass but not a JJ (unless you count the Urge bass). I've also considered the 'modified' route and had sourced pups but by the time I've bought, modified and replaced parts on a P bass I 'might' have been able to pick one up off the shelf (used). As it happens, there doesn't appear to be a budget brand that does this. Hence I may follow OHM's route or indeed, modify a cheap Squier or similar.

I like the P bass shape/aesthetic / I want a variation on the P or PJ sound.

Modding a P bass has always been on the cards but is it cost effective 'v' buy something ready done (hence question). Cost P bass + x2 J pups + scratchplate (custom made) + cost of routing. Offset would be selling standard scratchplate and the P pup... or keep them to revert.

Oddly enough I sourced pups to do this... but then they might go in a different bass that I already have. However, I will be left with the pups coming out of the modded bass so that is an option.

Not bad but I'm guessing not cheap. I quite like the fact that the pups look to be offset further back than a Jazz would be, which might quite tighten the sound.

That'll be it.

I've sat looking at that G&L and even though it defo is a P bass shape it looks subtly different (not a bad thing), I wonder of it is slightly fuller in the bouts. Oddly @Sibob I like lots of the G&L features but I can't get away with the bottle opener headstock (liked the old headstock)... or do I. LOL The Markbass looks like it was made in the same factory as some of the Peavey range... and a bit pricey for my interest.

I'm not talking about a custom order or a 5 string (I know Squier did a 5 string P bass with JJ). I'm trying to source a cheap/reasonably priced bass that is the P bass body but with a Jazz layout of the pups (controls immaterial), yet I can't seem to find an off the peg bass that suits... surely there must be models out there? Cheers for any input... unless it is 5 string or other pup config related.

With bodies in Alder, Ash, Maple, Mahogany, Bubinga... give me a minute and I'll think of more With fingerboards in Maple, Pau ferro, Ebony, Wenge... give me a minute and I'll think of more

Observation from personal use - Trace Elliott amps generally kick in 'loud' from the first 1/10th of the travel of the gain... then it evens out; hence a perception they are louder. I'm sure it must equate to the pot values.