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Velarian

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by Velarian

  1. These aren’t very expensive: https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_notched_straightedge_bass.htm
  2. Could it be something to do with active versus passive output?
  3. I know we’ve exchanged PMs but I would just like to say publicly what a brilliant thing it is you’re doing and I’m pleased to be able to contribute to your cause in some small way. The kids that receive the instruments will be enriched by the experience and some may even go on to bigger and better things as a result. Keep up the good work 👏🏼
  4. You could try using seventhstring Transcribe www.seventhstring.com - There’s a 30 day evaluation period so you can try it, and it’s not too expensive to buy after that.
  5. Will that effect not look a bit heavy when applied to the whole body? It feels to me a bit over the top just to mask a couple of dark spots on the edge of the body when the rest of the grain would look great naturally enhanced?
  6. I have TI flats on an Ibanez and on my Jazz and Precision I have Dunlop Super Bright Nickel round wounds 45-105 as a direct result of hearing this:
  7. Cheers, I’m very happy. I just hope the set up works out OK and the truss rod behaves itself. It’s been great having you along for the ride. In fact more than that; you seemed to have a knack of anticipating what I would need next and answering questions that I didn’t know I had. I’m really grateful for your insight and the other contributors too. 👏
  8. And here it is with its Jazz cousin:
  9. I got myself a multimeter today and checked the continuity between the cavitIes and all is good. I therefore cracked on and completed the assembly. I used copper foil to secure the bridge ground wire. After finishing that I checked the continuity again and was able to confirm that there there is complete continuity from the bridge, through both cavities and the back of the control plate. There’s a significant amount of adjustment needed from a set up point of view but I’m quite pleased with how things have turned out so far. I was able to plug it in and it worked perfectly first time. It sounds pretty good even though it’s not very playable in its current state. It felt a bit like that bit in car SOS where they start the engine for the first time. 😁 More tweaking tomorrow. Here it is:
  10. As others have said, waiting a few seconds before hitting the search button usually avoids the warning message. To search in a particular forum section, in the content type area select topics then in the drop-down list under forums, select the basses for sale section: -
  11. I think the nut will be ok; certainly for an initial quick set up. I hope there are no issues with the neck and truss rod. Assuming everything is ok then I’ll swap it for the new bone nut I have.
  12. I don’t have a multimeter unfortunately (I used to have one years ago but I’ve no idea what happened to it). Maybe I’ll buy one as it will come in useful for all sorts of other stuff. I wasn’t planning on a specific ground connection in the control cavity if the connection through the hole is good enough. In effect the control cavity should be grounded via the connection to the pickup cavity and the pickups, which in turn connect to the wiring loom, bridge and jack socket. I’ll take some more pics tomorrow.
  13. As suggested, I’ve connected the pickup cavity with the control cavity. I did this using a length of copper shielding tape folded into a narrow strip which I fed through the connecting hole and then taped to the cavity walls with more copper tape. I hope this method is OK? As the pickups are attached to a backing plate with the ground wires soldered to it (see pic), can you confirm that this will be sufficient given that the ground wire will also be connected to the wiring loom and therefore to the bridge? I’m thinking that there doesn’t need to be a second ground connection in the control cavity itself now that the two cavities are connected and the grounded pickup plate is in direct contact with the shielding in the pickup cavity.
  14. I’ve always loved how Telecaster guitars look and this captures the look perfectly. Really beautiful. How did the pickup turn out?
  15. I’ve just bought a set of these for my new build. I’ve yet to try them but, based on comments from several BCers, hopefully they’ll be perfect for the job.
  16. And she plays a mean cello too (not on a unicycle, obviously)
  17. For me the iconic bass of my era is JJ Burnell’s black/black/maple Precision. His later Shuker signature bass is something to aspire to, albeit as rare as hen’s teeth.
  18. That sounds like the sort of stuff I’d be into. It’s great that the young ‘uns are into it too.
  19. 😲 presumably the shipping cost is for someone to personally hand deliver it after flying first class to get to wherever it ends up?
  20. I might have been interested in this if I didn’t already have one, also fretless! The serial number on mine is S749969 which is very close to yours. The information about the neck is really interesting and it prompted me to check; mine is also stamped J. Serna. So thanks to you and the other BCer for that nugget of information. It’s a good price with both necks and I hope the original neck stays with bass. GLWTS.
  21. Holes drilled and cavities shielded, all ready for final assembly. Unfortunately I’m going to be away for a few days now so it’ll have to wait until I’m back next week. Nearly there now.
  22. I cut the control plate from the mirrored pick guard yesterday. It’s really hard to get the bevelled edge right and it needs a bit more filing around the curve. It’s not as good as a proper metal plate but it’s getting there. I also double and triple checked the bridge position and marked the hole centres with a bradawl along with the holes for the control plate. I’m pretty happy with the positioning now. I just need to actually drill the holes now but I must make sure I use the right sized drill bit.
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