Velarian

After around 3 decades of being in the care of a good friend of mine, I recently got my original ‘77 precision back and it’s just come back from the luthier reunited with its original neck, a new nut and nicely set up. It was originally a maple fretboard which was replaced with fretless ebony board by the Kincade Brothers In the early eighties.

Was prompted by tonight’s Classic Albums program on Sky Arts to revisit Steely Dan’s Aja. What a great album that is.

Got a second wiring loom with knobs from John, this time for my P-Bass project. Not fitted yet but the workmanship is first class and with CTS pots and a 1uf capacitor it promises to help deliver that vintage tone I’m after. Excellent service as always.

I’d love to hear Mark Egan’s bass part from San Lorenzo, the first track on the first Pat Metheny group album. I learned what I thought was a reasonable stab at the opening riff and thought I’d try to play along with the track to develop it further. The bass Gods we’re having none of that - don’t get ahead of yourself there sonny mi lad! The biggest problem is that the lowest note is an Eb. Is that a good enough excuse to buy a five string? 😂

I’ve seen this quite a few times when doing searches using the additional search options.

+ 1

It’s hard to beat that black/black/maple look IMHO.

I have a chrome version of the Gotoh bridge on one of my basses and it’s a perfectly good quality piece of kit, as are the machine heads I have on another bass. In both cases better than the Fender equivalents they replace.

I agree with this

And now they’re back! It’s like the Hokey Cokey 😂

I’ve just noticed that the marketplace section now has thumbnails in the topic listing. I really like that. 🙂 Edit: now they’ve disappeared ☹️

I’ve just noticed that the marketplace section now has thumbnails in the topic listing. I really like that. 🙂

BTW the MIA bass edges my MIM bass for feel.

I have a 2008 AM P-bass with an S1 circuit. Whilst the S1 switch is rather pointless as it just makes it sound thinner, not what you want from a P-bass, the answer is simply ignore it and leave it disabled. It will still be the same as a standard passive circuit. If it really bothered you, you could swap it out for one of @KiOgon’s passive wiring looms for not a lot of money.

Thanks, I had 2.1 turned on. Changed it back and I can now see everything. Shame though because I really like the colours and the light feel of the 2.1 theme.

Is it just me missing something or have the asking prices in the titles of posts in the marketplace section disappeared? I’m sure they used to be on a second line in the header but there’s only one line now. If the price is not on the end of the first line or mentioned in the body of the post I’ve no idea what the asking price is.

How long the bass is from the bridge to the nut. https://www.studybass.com/gear/bass-guitar-buying-guide/bass-scale-length/

I have the fretless version of this bass which I bought because I wanted a cheapish fretless to mess around on. It’s well made and because it’s active with two pickups there are lots of tonal possibilities. It’s better than a lower-end squier I would say and should be a perfectly good instrument to get started on. The neck is quite narrow which makes it easy to get around. However this feels totally different to a Fender which is more old-school in feel. It’s horses for courses though and I’m not familiar with the bass you’ve been practicing with so it’s probably best to get your hands on one first to see how it compares to what you’re used to.

Just replaced a tortoiseshell pick guard with a black one 😉

Here’s my quiver

Indeed, at the back of my mind I was thinking of a worse case scenario where the OP doesn’t get the goods for the original price and then struggles to get a refund.

One more thing - did you pay by credit card? Is so, then the credit card company is jointly and severally liable under S75 of the Consumer Credit Act 1974. You can raise it with them. This protection doesn’t apply to debit card payments unfortunately. It’s always worth using a credit card in these situations even if you intend to pay the credit card in full immediately.

The constituent parts of a legally binding contract are: - Offer acceptance consideration consensus In this case you offered to make the purchase and in exchange for receiving the goods later paid the value of the goods (the consideration). They accepted your payment and unless they explicitly said it was a deposit or down payment then I would argue you have an enforceable contract. There is an earlier step which is not part of the contract itself but it is material and this how were the goods advertised or presented for sale? This is known as an invitation to treat. If you were enticed to buy the goods because the price was advertised, displayed or mentioned then you should be able rely on that as part of the pre-contact negotiations. unless any other limiting terms or conditions were made clear at the time of your order I think you probably have a good case. BTW this isn’t legal advice - I started a legal exec course about 30 odd years ago (didn’t finish it though) and this was one of the few things that stuck in my mind. 😂 Good luck and let us know how you get on.

I had a late 70s Fender Precision, sunburst with rosewood fingerboard. It got nicked in the early 80s, twice! The first time, after a tip-off from the local music shop and the help of the police it was recovered. After the second time I never saw it again. I really regret not keeping it safer at the time 😫

I got some of these to replace the reverse-wind tuners on my MIJ ‘62 reissue JB. Direct replacement and a perfect fit with the existing screw holes. Well engineered and now I don’t get confused when tuning the damn thing. 😂