Soledad

I recently picked up a UK built MAG250 combo (210) for rehearsal space so it runs at quite low levels, but I read somewhere they are known for overheating due maybe to no fan cooling. Anyone else know about this? Must say it's a cracking combo for the £120 I paid - good core sound and versatile EQ. Used other Ashdown rigs and always been impressed. I reckon it's partly a fashion thing, with weights also a bit of a factor for some. Top Gear, as they say on the streets of Amsterdam

Proper useful @itu - the 'Boss' standard is negative pin I believe and does seem to be the current near-standard. I think I have seen some jack-to-jack connectors with no cable - just solid direct for the side fitted jack in/outs - if you follow? Your suggested order makes sense I think - i'll start with that. The tuner tees off the Sad. so signal path isn't too bad.

I use isolated pedals sometimes but I need a board. This raises some basic questions I'm a bit stuck on: Power supply. Is centre negative a kind of standard? Can I get a basic say 500mA supply and a daisychain - job done? Signal. Say 4 pedals. What is the best way to connect signal through a chain like this. I mean short, tidy, and signal-clean? Order. I plan a Sadowsky SBP1 (got), a compressor; a chorus (got) and a tuner. Note pre-amp will be out most of time and used to add some gain and push tops sometimes. Is there a basic logic to pedal order? Tips from the experienced out there much appreciated

You never expected to get away with that did you. Please clarify 'nastier' and if it's a negative define nicer.

Agreed. You get the least of both - lack the body / punch of flats in the lows and mids, and lack the wide spectrum brightness of rounds at the top. And they squeak. And I don't like 'em. EB Cobalts.

Not my experience with them at all. I definitely recommend Cobalts. I asked the same question here a little while ago and that led me to the Cobalts which I use on a stock US P. They don't sound at all like rounds (I have D'Addario rounds on the Jazz and had them on the P before the EBs). I'd describe them, as bright flats with all the bottom and lower middle that flats are famous for, but with a really useful crunch in the lower treble, which can be dialled in and out on the bass in a flash. Love 'em. This old thread may be handy

That's been my long time impression. Either I have become desensitised to SPL (hearing loss then), or modern amps are less loud watts for watts. I definitely remember the Acoustic 360 / 361 rig being massively loud, befor that a Hiwatt 100 (OK, with 2 412s) silly loud. And in all my experience the Traces I have used belong to the brave old school... LOUD. A word for the 7 band graphic - really well chosen frequencies, lots of mid shaping available. Very few current class Ds offer the same degree of EQ, and when they try it just seems complicated. 7 sliders, job done.

Loud amps save lives... tasty. Sorry to digress, but what strings are on the P?

Correct. We don't ask how or why. We just know and respect. The end.

I'd say this takes first place... for now. Wondering how you store 72 basses, and what it looks like? Bass Direct I suppose

Can't comment on value, but I wouldn't be wanting 15s for what you plan. Maybe a 15 and 210 but prob no 15s at all. Mind you I like 10s, the more the better !!

Welcome! Let me guess, Thw White House was pre-Donald ??? me too, don't have those down my way. Thinking about it, I've probably played some without knowing that's what they were called

That's me too - lost a fiver on a Sire, made 20 on a Dean fretless, broke even on the Yamaha... It may be harder on amps/cabs as they are gigged and may deteriorate a bit with use / trucking. But when I buy a bass I want it to be a keeper, if not I reckon lose maybe 10% max and consider that a lease charge for having the bass for some months - and that 'loss' is a worst case really. You'll gather I don't buy new stuff Sorry to hear this. My post was quite light-hearted as I haven't lost so far on the 4 sold and would not feel too bad if I needed to sell 4 more - i'd just keep one Jazz I think. OK the Mayo fretless as well, and here we go I do think that if you are buying decent 2nd hand basses at a fair market price, you will be able to sell on without losing much if anything. I do avoid custom basses, I think they are far harder to price and value.

That's the weird thing Barking. I started with one (a Yamaha, now sold). I was doing a musical shift so sold 2 flamencos (well, one isn't sold yet, it's on commission in London). I needed Fenders, that's how it got rolling. Given they were fairly mainstream affordables, I use FB and Gumtree. I have found FB to be very effective on basses (sub a grand anyway, well sub in most cases). First thing is mentally letting go, waving goodbye in your mind. Then, decent pics, good description and sensible price. I've bought 3 basses here, but not sold any so far. I'm sure there are BCers here can top my 9 minus 4. Step forward

If I knew what that was, I'd surely need some.

Thanks Greg, again. I'm no slapper but there are parts of the technique I want in my tool-box. I've watched a number of videos on the topic but none until now explained the contact point of your thumb. It's details like this that make the difference. Also many other vids get you popping well before the thumb technique is properly nailed. Good material here, recommended 👍

So does this work like disallowed goals? I need to check the rules

I'm a bit concerned I've bought nine basses since January this year. OK I've sold 4 of them so a net 5. But it's beginning to feel like a kind of illness. Step forward all who can top this. It'll make me feel better, or less weak at least. (in part two, I may own up to the amp/cab/combo issues)

Excellent opener, I reckon I need reminding sometimes... knobs n switches hold a fatal fascination But fact is a Trace head through a decent cab still does the job and then some.

Is 'Bow down' appropriate here? A page back or so there's a GB900 on a BF110... now that's a 'bow down' rig. Just sayin'

This one. Surely a strong contender. Beyond the OPs range at 1200W but it's well inside at 8 Ohms so it qualifies.