Mottlefeeder

Maplins and probably many caravan/camping and tool shops will sell you a 12v dc to 230 v ac invertor, which will enable you to run your mains powered rig from a leisure/traction 12 v battery. They often retail at between £20 and £30, for a 300 w unit. Car and bike batteries do not like being fully discharged and recharged, but traction and leisure batteries are designed for that duty. You should get several seasons of use from one of the latter. I have used a Maplins invertor with caravan battery and a 300 w Hartke head and also with a 120 w Hartke kickback combo, and the only down sides are the slight buzz (turn down the treble) and the weight (use a trolley, or a smaller battery). There are units out there designed to run on batteries, but they are a minority interest so they will almost certainly cost you more than a s/h combo, invertor and battery.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='443125' date='Mar 23 2009, 09:18 PM']...I've seen a couple of foldable cab-tilter wedge-type designs which look like a good idea on the face of it but what stops your head from sliding off the top when the cab is tilted back?...[/quote] You could get two wedges, and put one under the cab, and the other facing the other way under the amp, so the amp would still be horizontal. Alternatively, you could bend some sheet ally into an 'S' or 'Z' shape so that it curled round the lip at the front of your speaker cab, and had a bit sticking up at the other end to stop your amp sliding off the back.

If you download the software WinISD, it will model what different speakers will sound like in different sized/tuned boxes. You may not be able to feed in the parameters for the Behringer units, but you will be able to model the Celestion units, in a box that size, with ports like you have (if you have them). This will tell you whether you are heading for a smooth sound, or a honky resonant sound. I'd also suggest checking whether you have a plywood box or a chipboard / MDF box before you decide whether to throw more money at it. It may feel heavy and high quality because it has speakers with small magnets in an MDF enclosure.

One of the differences between Win98 and WinXP was that we lost the facility to define which interupts (IRQs) would be used by which parts of the PC. My sound card never worked properly until I understood this, and phisically moved it from slot to slot within the PC until I found a position where it was not sharing an IRQ with anything else. It now works well, so I would recommend that you check that. Other sources of help that have not been mentioned are the two cubase forums, one official, and one independent - cubase.com and cubase.net

[quote name='endorka' post='435118' date='Mar 15 2009, 11:39 AM']Just to clarify: the WAV is indeed shorter than the Stagg, but the scale length of the strings are approximately the same on both, i.e. the equivalent of a 3/4 size double bass, around 42". The Stagg is longer because the strings are for longer on the non-playing side of the bridge, so that the ends are fixed into the front of the instrument. On the WAV, the strings don't go on for much after they've gone over the bridge - they wrap round the instrument and the ends are fixed into holes in the back of the instrument, kindof like a "thru string" setup on a bass guitar, only more so :-) Jennifer[/quote] Thank you for that - I knew what I meant, but it was a bit ambiguous.

I was in your position about 4 months ago... Firstly, what you can already play may not be playable on an EUB. With a low action they tend to sound like a fretless, so there is little point in having one if you already have a good fretless. With a higher action, they sound more like an upright, but they are harder to play. Your ring finger is used to assist your little finger, not to finger notes on its own, so all your fingerings will have to change. You can get both 4- and 5-string EUBs, so it makes sense to go for what you are used to. However, the fingerboard may not be (much) wider on the 5-, which makes bowing more difficult if you want to get into that. You have a choice of shorter EUBs on a long stick, e.g the WAV etc, or double bass length instruments on a shorter stick, e.g. the Stagg, Aria, Yamaha etc. The former will fit across the boot of a family hatchback/saloon boot, the latter will not. Some would argue that the formar look daft, but the latter look the part - it's your call. Some are fitted with piezo pick-ups under the bridge, and some also have magnetic pick-ups, and on-board preamps. A passive piezo EUB needs a higher input impedance than some bass amps provide, so you may need to budget for an outboard preamp. I don't know enough to compare and contrast different models, so I'll leave that to others.

[quote name='molan' post='434554' date='Mar 14 2009, 12:58 PM']So I've sold my main amp & won't get a new one for a week or so & was wondering what to use at home for the time being. I then had the brainwave of feeding my Sadowsky outboard pre straight into my old EBS power amp power amp. Sounds great! It's one of the old models & if you whack the bass & treble boost up full it really makes a lot of basses actually sound like a Sadowsky as well [/quote] Is that a stereo power amp power amp? I use a cheap mixer and cast off parts of my hifi system - The amp is ~1970s Technics, the speakers are ~1980s Mission

[quote name='Alien' post='430039' date='Mar 10 2009, 12:16 AM']You'll ideally want screened cable. The sort of levels going into headphones is about the same as line level, so it makes sense you'd want similar cable. A[/quote] I agree with escoll - the impedance of headphone circuits is very low, so the chances of picking up interference are much reduced. As far as rewiring phones are concerned, it probably makes sense to use the same type of wire are was used before. If your phones' lead is figure of eight in cross section, you probably have two screened leads, one for left and one for right. If your phones' lead is circular, it may contain four conductors, and no screening. In the mid-priced Sennheisers that I repaired recently, the four wires were lacquered, and each was wound loosely around its own plastic core - this gave the cable strength without stressing the conductors. The four conductors are right, hot and ground and left, hot and ground, and the two grounds connect together to the sleeve of the jack plug. Traditionally, the jackplug tip is left, and the ring is right. For jackplugs, 1/4 inch or 3.5 mm, I have found [url="http://stores.ebay.co.uk/audio-spares"]http://stores.ebay.co.uk/audio-spares[/url] to be fast and relatively cheap. For replacement headset parts, Beyer and Sennheiser do carry spares, long after production stops. If it is not one of those, you may be heading down the diy route, with tissue paper and glue, or whatever it needs.

[quote name='d-basser' post='427108' date='Mar 6 2009, 12:38 PM']...[b]New problem[/b]: cant for the life of me get all 4 screws to line up, 2 fine, third with a little trouble but I cannot get a fourth in, I am at the point of almost stripping screws, Obviously 3 will hold my amp but is there something I am doing wrong to explain my in ability to screw all four in[/quote] It is possible that you are trying to do what the maufacturer has not designed it for. The U system is based on 1 3/4 inch units and the screw hole distances varies between 1U, 2U and 3U. The rack flanges accommodate this with slightly different hole spacings between different sets of holes, so if you have fixed holes, they will be spaced in a 1,2,1,1,2,1 pattern - the spacing is only a millimeter or two different. You may be trying to fit screws into the wrongly spaced holes, so try rearranging the gear and see if it fits better using different sets of holes.

I played a BEADG 5-string fretted and a BEAD fretless for a couple of years and had no problems. I upgraded to a pair of 5-stringers for consistency, but I have to say I rarely use the G string. The downside is that your choice of strings is limited. There are a few sets of BEAD strings out there, but the alternative is to buy a 5-string set, and sell on the G to a slapping and popping enthusiast. Also, unless you have a Warwick or similar with an adjust-a-nut 1, you will need to file out the nut, and replace it if you change back. With the adjust-a-nut 1, each string sits in a groove in a screwhead and Warwick will send you a replacement screw at no charge - it isn't the E, it's the A or D that has to be changed.

[quote name='Leowasright' post='402202' date='Feb 6 2009, 05:40 PM']Now, I have just nailed a Hartke HA3500 at a price well below the hikes filtering through at the minute. I'm more than sure it'll be loud enough anyway, but the rush in which I hit the buy it now button eliminated any consideration of the HA5500. I suspect that the 3500 and 5500 probably share a common PCB. That means I reckon that the only probable real difference is the number of MOSFET power transistors in the output section of the amp. Anybody out there able to confirm my thoughts, or even actually done such a mod to their amp? Apart from that, I'm also picking up from an old friend my Fender Bassman 100 head I bought 21 years ago, and sold to him 15 years ago for £70. I'm buying it back for £100(!) Only thing is, it's a bit sick, lots of noise when used. Resistors in preamp section?[/quote] Putting more MOSFETS on the output will increase the current an amplifier can produce, which would possibly enable you to use an extra cab, if the power supply could supply the extra current. To get more power into an 8 ohm load, you have to have more voltage to drive the extra current around, so one of the main differences between the 3500 and the 5500 will be the internal supply voltage to the amplifiers. A retrofit upgrade to the power supply to provide say 10% more volts is unlikely to be a realistic proposition.

So, what happened? Based on our slight concerns about the seller, I advised my friend not to push the boat out too far, and he was outbid. So, what did we achieve? We checked out a seller with no feedback: we weren't 100% happy with what we found: we bid cautiously: we did not win. We can't prove it was the right decision, but it definitely wasn't the wrong one. A big thank you to Wayne and his family for taking the time to help. I hope I will be able to do the same for another bass-chatter someday. David

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='393409' date='Jan 28 2009, 09:12 AM']No probs.[/quote] We have contact - PM sent

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='393340' date='Jan 28 2009, 01:08 AM']My dad lives in Mildenhall could get him to have a look.[/quote] Thanks. I've asked for an address and a contact number - I'll get back to you. David

There is an ebay listing for a budget fretless, but the seller has no feedback. If anyone lives near Mildenhall, or passes it while commuting, is there any chance you could drop in and check it out? It's about 5 miles north of the A11 / A14 junction. Obviously, if it is viable, I will get a more detailed address.

I asked about this on another forum (Talkbass?) and the answer I got was that pick-ups are designed to feed into some specified resistance and capacitance. If you take that out completely, you will hear a more peaky, resonant sound from the pick-up, because you have taken the damping out of the circuit. Think of a hi-fi speaker with the wadding taken out. Some hi-end retrofit preamps have selectable input impedances for that reason.

[quote name='Maxcat' post='391168' date='Jan 25 2009, 08:11 PM']Ive been looking around for a uk seller who stocks the right angled Centre negative 2.1mm x 5.5mm power leads that run from my board supply to the pedals (shown on voodoo lab site). Sent emails to any site that looked valid and have had nothing back. Does anyone know where I can pick these bad boys up from? Cheers in advance[/quote] Maplins do a power supply lead that has bare ends one end, and a range of plugs for the other. It finishes in a two pin socket about 6mm diameter, and the plugs fitted that, one way round for pin + and the other way round for pin -. Cable - [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=6290"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=6290[/url] Plug - [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=44240"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=44240[/url]

[quote name='Paul Cooke' post='389418' date='Jan 23 2009, 11:10 AM']they're a pain... and I've had one pop off while playing... luckily the strap stayed on so I didn't find myself playing "catch the Bass"... They only work well with straps that have thin ends and a bass with conical profiled strap-pins... always amazes me how cheap people can be when it comes to securing expensive basses... for real cheap and reliable (but not quick to change basses with) use Grolsch Bottle washers... anything else, use proper metal straplocks... I switched to Schaller for all mine... you can source the end-pins separately which means you don't have to purchase a complete assembly for each bass...[/quote] I see things differently - 1) Since the strap is on the strap pin, a failure of this lock means that the bass stays on the strap. Any failure of a Dunlop or Schaller straplock will probably put your bass on the floor. 2) I use a padded strap, which I store flat so the padding does not crease. If you use metal straplocks, you need to find a place to store your strap where the metal cannot scratch your bass. With these, you can take the strap off, and lay it along the fretboard without risk of scratching. 3) If they pop off when you are playing, they are probably overstressed. You can open up the central hole slightly with a file, which will get rid of most problems. It still won't work with a strap that is too thick though. 4) I have had two basses with straplocks, and had near misses with both, because I had not engaged the locks properly. In ten years of using these, I have never had a strap that came off by not being put on propoerly. 5) They are cheap, and they do not involve modifying your bass to fit them.

[quote name='Toasted' post='387285' date='Jan 21 2009, 11:00 AM']Yes - give me a min I have an email. Although the £/$ is 1.38 today, which is ****ing awful. EDIT: From BassNW [i]Cafe Walter HA-1A Headphone Practice Amp - $169.00 + $50.00 U.S. Postal Service shipping and handling (fully insured)[/i] I've gotta say, we'd be better picking up one from the TB Classifieds, $50 post seems excessive. There's a few for sale there at the moment.[/quote] The problem with their postal charges is that when the content value exceeds a threshold, they have to go onto a different tarif to get the insurance cover. That automatically puts it into the hands of Parcelforce, who collect the UK VAT etc, and charge you for the privilege of being served by them.

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='385912' date='Jan 20 2009, 12:18 PM']Hello Everyone. I'm looking for a small (but solid!) device for (mobile/headphone) practice purposes. It'll be driving a pair of headphones, and needs an input for an MP3 player or similar so I can jam along. Ideally it'd be both mains or battery powered. I'm not too bothered about on-board FX, although a good OD/light distortion, compressor and chorus certainly wouldn't offend me!! Tone controls would be helpful, as might a gain control, as it'll need to handle both active and passive basses. Good sound quality is a pre-requisite, though. Budget? £150 max, I suppose. I've seen the Korg Pandora PX-4D for £75 on Amazon. I like the integrated tuner (one less box to carry/power!) but am non-plussed by the amp modelling (I'll bet most are for the guitarists out there!) I don't need the phrase trainer function particularly, either. Do Tascam still do the BassTrainer or a Pandora equivalent? I've read the PX-4D reviews on Harmony Central, but they all seem to be by guitarists, and vary massively from dreadful to perfect! Sorry for the lengthy intro, but I know it helps you to help me! Thanks in advance, Alex.[/quote] You do not mention the metronome or drum kit feature, so I assume this is not a feature you want. If you do not need amp modelling and phrase training, and can manage without the integral tuner, a Pocket Rock-it would give you bass + aux input, and chorus and distortion. There were about £35 before our financial troubles started.

I use mine with the amp simulator switched out of circuit, and I have accidentally nudged the knob and brought in an amp effect when picking it up to change the drum speed etc. Could it be that something can nudge the controls where you currently have it placed/hanging?

[quote name='jake_tenfloors' post='382055' date='Jan 16 2009, 09:19 AM']Ok, i'm with you! Now with the passive problem, what can i use to boost the signal without loosing the tone?? An op-amp like with the headphones?? Just so i can make one channel switchable between active & passive. Gonna have to start drawing some designs up me thinks! Jake[/quote] I'm fairly confident that the Fdeck Hi-pass filter front end would work for passives, and if it overloaded, would have a 'nice valve-like' distortion. See the last paragraph. Alternatively [url="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=75949"]http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=75949[/url] is a thread about onboard preamps which may give you some ideas for the front end. If not, the site contains several other threads about bass and guitar amplification, but you have to register, and I seem to have lost my password... Alternatively, the Albert Kreuzer outboard preamp referred to in the above thread is filed here [url="http://www.albertkreuzer.com/pics/el/pre/schem/preamp_sch21.gif"]http://www.albertkreuzer.com/pics/el/pre/s...reamp_sch21.gif[/url] The front end runs at +9 volts (I think), but the op-amps need +/- supplies.