agedhorse

To add to Bill’s comment, generally as the power handling increases, sensitivity decreases because to increase low frequency power handling, trades offs are made that decrease the sensitivity. This can be offset but it adds a lot of cost and the driver is no longer “cheap”.

The preamps of the pedal and the amp are almost identical.

Also, verify that you are using genuine Neutrik parts. I have seen an awful lot of intermittent problems (exactly as you describe) from sub-standard Asian knock-off parts, and cables improperly assembled by tinning the wire before assembly. About 1/2 of the intermittent speaker issues have traced back to defective SpeakOn connectors (generally the cable mount type).

The critical information being left out of the statement above is that "underpowering" is not what causes the damage, but the clipping which causes damage primarily to the high frequency drivers. Otherwise, how would all of the overdriven tones work... they are various forms of clipping. This information is from a pro audio perspective, one that generally avoids high level clipping, and also generally has better (more effective) processing to prevent mechanical damage form too much power. Speakers have both thermal and mechanical failure modes. Clipping is generally a thermal failure mode in the high frequency driver, which is why players who use overdriven and distorted tones generally play cabinets without tweeters also. Not only do tweeters disproportionally reproduce the harmonics generated by clipping, but they don't last long doing so at higher power levels. In bass guitar, the most common form of speaker damage is mechanical, and this always occurs from too much power. This is either from an amp that is too large for the speakers, or a misunderstanding of how the amp and the speaker are rated (ie. RMS, program and peak descriptors). When a speaker is rated at say 1000 watts, without any descriptor, the FIRST question to ask is HOW that rating is made.

Explain to me how it's possible for an amp to be so popular and well talked about (bragged about even) in Europe, yet have the reliability and support issues that are being discussed here?

There has been quite a bit of player discussion on the combinations of cabinets over at TalkBass. This may be a more helpful resource.

Your impression is exactly correct, all models within the Subway line are designed with similar phase response, sensitivity and power bandwidth to work well together. The engineering and math have been done, listening tests agree with the predictions, and it's not influenced by the marketing department. Note that this is not true mixing the Subway cabinets with other manufacturer's cabinets, nor mixing cabinet models from Mesa outside of the Subway models (for example, PH and Scout cabinets may not mix well with Subway cabinets). The most common combination is the 115 with the 210, but the 115 with 112 is not far behind.

I just suggest that you have some real experience. I see a fair amount of unrepairable damage caused by attempted repairs.

I did suggest a factory authorized service center as they will have the necessary access to resources and parts. I would have expected them to be fully supported and serviceable for much less then the cost of buying a new one. It's not an inexpensive amp is it? (I don't have a good grasp of European/UK prices of course)

Why not have your amp repaired. I would expect that a qualified MarkBass authorized service center would be able to get this taken care of for you.

I have not seen anything that specifically states that the + and - signals are fully isolated from pin This is an essential requirement for use with ANY amp that contains bridged topology.

Yes. The direction is screen printed on the PCB. Use all safety precautions, the PCB does not need to be removed. It’s a double sided board with plated holes so be be gentle.

There is no difference as the Streamliner's speaker outputs are parallel wired from a single output. I suggest a single cable, simpler and just as effective.

Thanks Al, tried to grab the correct page from my phone but obviously didn't get it quite right. Cheers.

Thanks.

I have addressed some of this to the best of my ability in a TalkBass thread. Rather than rehash this here, please take a look at the thread: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/official-mesa-boogie-subway-series-club.1181245/page-1144#post-24825163

Yes, it appears not to be a language misunderstanding, just showing his true personality.

Excuse me, nothing I said was insulting nor was it intended to be. I deal with international customers every day, I am aware that many use translation software that may not translate as accurately as assumed (either to or from anybody’s native language) I simply suggested that this might be an explanation for the miscommunication rather than assume that you were being intentionally disrespectful. The US is a very large country with diverse politics. Many do not find what’s going on in our country acceptable in the slightest. To assume that I (or anybody you talk with from the US) finds it acceptable is a form of casting stereotypes and may very well be wrong. Is this how the forum thinks of all US residents? If so, if he talks for everybody here, I find it very sad.

He mentions a resistor in series with an LED, which means that the discharge rate would be very low and the discharge time very high UNLESS there is an ADDITIONAL resistor (~10 ohm, 10-25W) like I suggested earlier. I suspect that the communication issues here may be due to different native languages. If so, none of this is going to be very helpful.

How are the voltage (tension) the most important? There are many important aspects to the signal path of an amp, and while the voltage is ONE part of this, there are many other important factors in identifying not only where the fault might be located, but also what the fault might be. "Tension" (voltage) doesn't flow, it is a potential. CURRENT flows. Perhaps there is a challenge here with language?

Glad you liked the manual. I wrote it along with a LOT of contribution and detailed editing by a couple of seriously seasoned TalkBass members, one who is a very technically inclined and one who is a journalist, both are solid players. The primary focus of the manual was to provide accurate, detailed information that is useful to players and form a player perspective. These guys started with the WD-800 manual and the response was so overwhelmingly positive that it was a no brainer to continue this way. Writing manuals is unbelievably time consuming, and these guys stepped up to the plate to make it clear and player friendly, especially when describing features that have not been implemented before. Here are links to the WD-800 and TT-800 manuals, they might help those who are interested better understand the amps to determine if they might be a good fit or not. WD-800: https://mesa-boogie.imgix.net/media/User Manuals/070556_Subway_WD800.pdf TT-800: https://mesa-boogie.imgix.net/media/User Manuals/Subway-TT800-web.pdf

Not necessarily true, in that some class D output stages have additional emulation and modeling circuitry as well as damping adjustments and symmetry control at the point the POWER amp begins to overdrive. That said, taking a signal from the speaker output using a conventional direct box is not a safe application. There are ways to do this, but with specialized hardware only.

Yes, I deal with this sort of thing often enough that these warnings (including warnings in the newer owner's manuals) are entirely justified.

That's EXACTLY what is being discussed, and what the OP's situation involved.