agedhorse

It’s one way to implement muting, but not the most common way by far. It depends on what is happening throughout the amp as to how muting is accomplished and where. Sometimes, more than one method is used in an amp too.

There are several ways to mute the amp. You want to be darn sure the module is really the problem or you will be throwing money away. Also, beware of these modules sourced from China, there are counterfeits of this series coming from there.

Excellent, this is why I always recommend the best service you can find… premium service, even at a premium price is always a better value.

If the bottom passive radiator is too close to the floor it will change the tuning of the cabinet. That’s (partly)what the feet are for.

Agreed, everything gets paid for one way or the other. In the US, in most states, there is no sales tax on the labor. Only parts and materials are subject to it but only if the parts were purchased by the service business and sales tax wasn’t paid at that point. This is why comparing costs is so difficult, you pay more overall in taxes, but you have universal healthcare and we have an expensive mess run mostly by private insurance companies. Pick your poison…

A couple of comments that apply here… 1. much of the additional labor applies to correcting previous repair work, and removal of the PCB for the additional work (including cleaning residue and contamination, which is important to minimize leakage currents) 2. 20% of the total repair cost doesn’t go to the shop, it goes to the all government to pay for the costs of running the country, including social heath programs. The pre-VAT amount is similar to the cost of factory servicing.

Depending on the year, the 15's were usually EVM-15L's, the 10's could have been one of 3 or 4 different drivers (the one in the picture is NOT a CA-10 nor is it an Eminence, it may have been a Precision Devices driver). The 6-1/2" driver is a customized Eminence driver, there were at least 2 versions, one with an unvented motor and a vented dust cap and the one pictured that has a vented motor (because the dust cap is not vented). I do not know what the customizations were, but it it likely that it was related to the mid voicing and extension. If everything is working, I would leave the drivers alone.

You will probably need to order a replacement horn with a new driver at this point. I haven't seen the old style is years.

He is tough, but he gets things done right. That’s what you are paying for, not his personality! 😂

Stan’s a fantastic service engineer, one of the best I have worked with. Say hi to him for me.

There IS a USB power source on the back of the amp, you can use it with whatever converter cable you wish to get the necessary voltage and polarity. This feature is on the D-350, WD, TT and BD-800 models. This feature and application is also described in the owner’s manual

Where do you have the master volume control set?

Ultimately, we lost some sales from this but gained a life-long following from those who appreciated it. Yes, the Bass 400+ was also a fairly extreme example of this which is why we refined the original circuit to make it more player friendly but it still has some of the iconic quirks.

Almost all of the voicing on both the 400+ and Bass 800D is done within the tone stack eq section, that’s why it’s so important to understand how it works.

Remember that this is based on the Fender tone stack eq which can benefit with the eq controls higher than you might expect. Also, the master volume control applies gain evenly throughout its entire rotation, many master controls do 90% of their work in the first half of the rotation (which makes people THINK they are more powerful though they are not).

1. Turn the gain and volume up more 2. Turn the eq up more, it’s based on the Fender tone stack which functions like volume controls (especially the mid band) 3. Use the high gain switch position. Knob position means nothing, the gain structures (and gain stage architecture) are entirely different between the two amps.

Depends entirely on the particular pedal, some can and some can't. If all pedal manufacturers included the necessary information in their specifications, specifically the maximum output level, it would be a LOT easier to determine this.

We stuck with USB-A for a reason... there are a variety of USB-A to 9V, 12V, 15V and 18V converter cords available for use with pedals, but also the USB-A to USB-C and USB-A to lightning cables are readily available and very inexpensive so you get the best of both worlds. https://lovemyswitches.com/usb-to-9vdc-power-cable/?srsltid=AfmBOopZVrbjs29mAccByIl4AMwGF66xRajKnUtln5fc-rE7Rd5RIkAR Yes, I write all the basic outline and structure of the manuals, and then I have a couple of our outside test players who help with the editing process. One is a very experienced aerospace mechanical engineer who writes operations manuals for NATO compliant equipment (the big stuff) and the other has outstanding communication skills combined with really good intuition. Both are also excellent bass players (I'm a somewhat-mediocre keyboard player), so the goal is a technically complete manual written and edited from the perspective of bass players, to be accurate, clear, concise, useful and free from the vomitous marketing babble that makes manuals virtually unreadable. Thank you for appreciating our efforts. ❤️ We figure that if you are going to pay for a premium product, you also deserve a premium manual.

Good question, I really don't know. We have tossed this idea around before but it's never gained enough traction.

Good question... Of course we looked at our legacy models, the first one was the Walkabout and the weight was one of the biggest complaints (and it wasn't a very heavy amp compared with say the Carbines). Moving up to the heavier amps, size and weight very much factored into the decision because our players placed this very high on the "wanted list". Back in the day, I did design a number of substantially sized, heavy amps like the GBE-750 and 1200, but these found their way mostly to those who were either touring with big rigs or didn't need to worry about transportation. The older models sales had fallen to almost nothing even before we released the first Subway model, was better for what our evolving player base wanted and had asked for. Listening to a large number of players provided a huge level of clarity here.

There are now some player produced videos and audio clips of the amp, some really good ones actually. They are on TalkBass (amps & cabs, new boogie release thread, pages 17-19-ish), I can't link them here unfortunately. I would like to hear what you can do here once they start getting into your hands, please post your videos and clips.

I have actually designed some Subway multi-driver cabinets but there wasn't much interest even though a couple of the designs were really quite good (articulate while retaining some flavor). Oh well, the customers drive this ship, not enough customer interest equals "pull the plug". It's unlikely to see the old Boogie badge on the bass cabinets, The Mesa Engineering was selected starting about 25 years ago. We do have some Boogie badges on our factory store website so that you could customize your own cabinets however.

The same ICEPower module used in all of the other Subway 800 watt models, but they all use different control algorithms for managing overdrive, therefore they all feel differently.

D is the original solid state preamp, compact chassis. 350W or 800W WD is Walkabout, class D, 800W BD is Bass 400, class D, 800W TT is Tri-Tube Topology, class D, 800W (I wanted to name it TD, but that name is already trademarked by Lab Gruupen, used in class TD) 😥

I have known Stan for years, he’s one of the best service engineers in the UK and maybe all of Europe IME.