agedhorse

Or essential...

Your post above: "Totally, its a lot of power. but really what it is, and what we were after is a lot of headroom, at ANY volume."

This kind of goes against all the mythical BS about an amp needing a big transformer and filter caps to sound “hefty”. There’s an awful lot of attributing cause and effect in the fade of multiple examples contrary to the premise.

Note that the definition of headroom is available power that is NOT used. Once you use that power, it's no longer considered headroom.

Yes, lower THD without the preamp, the output stage emulation algorithms are different than the gain stage algorithms. It also depends on the amp model, for example the TT-800 uses different algorithms than say the D-800 or 800+. It also depends on how hard the gain stage(s) and the output are driven, the character and distortion harmonics change with both level and frequency.

The detailed specs are located in the back of each owner’s manual. We specify the rated power at THD less that 10% because much of the harmonics are added in the preamp and power amp tube emulation circuits in addition to the tube preamps themselves (WD and TT) when driven hard. It’s similar in concept to say the SVT which uses 5% THD, or the Darkglass amps that use ~20% THD (presumably because their drive circuits are the basis of their fundamental tone).

Yeah, that would turn an electric bass into a tuba at those velocities

With OEM drivers, you can't assume that it has anywhere near the same TS parameters even if it looks "identical". The differences can be huge, thus impacting any modeling accuracy you hope to achieve.

Correct, that’s exactly why I differentiated between the LF section and the mid-hi frequency sections as Bill also clarified.

Correct. They are designed to work stacked vertically, not side by side. The mid coverage pattern is defined by the mid element’s vertical orientation of the mid-high frequency array.

That's a tough market to earn a living in as a sound guy...

Yes, often (or usually at the level I work at) you can. The breakup in guitar speakers is quite different, and the cones/surrounds are designed differently in order to enhance the desired characteristics for different guitar styles. You won’t find the same types of cones and surrounds intended for breakup in bass speakers. The side effects are generally detrimental to what most bass players are looking for.

Only if you choose the wrong FOH guys...

Just note that there were some reliability issues, and I don't think that they support them anymore. This should factor into your decision.

Understood, I was responding to the question about what a "pro" is. I should also extend my response to those players who go out of their way to ACT like a pro, and to note that there are pros who don't act this way also. It really depends, sometimes micing a cabinet works very well and sometimes a DI is better, which is why when I mic a cabinet I also like to have a DI so that if needed I have options. Guitar is a very different beast. First of all we don't have to worry about the bottom octave which for bass is the hardest to mic accurately or successfully. The second reason is that the natural low pass effect of the speaker is used in combination with any distortion that may be used and it very much part of translating the electrical signal to an acoustic signal. This is why IR's are so much more common and useful (now) in the guitar world but not as useful in the bass world. Different sources require different tools for greater success.

A pro gig is gigs by pro musicians (who earn a substantial portion of their living in the music industry) and pro sound guys make their living providing sound to mostly professional acts. There is a HUGE difference between real pros and those who think they are pros. Unfortunately you often discover the difference between pros and non-pros after it's too late to do anything about it.

Different music styles, speakers and basses make this feature desired and useful to some players.

Sure it’s entirely possible. The real challenges is the cost of development, testing and global safety/EMC certification for a component that’s very low production volume.

Another ridiculous urban myth that I’ve never seen at a pro gig ever.

No way to accurately predict the outcome.

What’s difficult about his question or the information that was provided? Often, a seemingly simple question doesn’t have a simple accurate answer and since the wrong answer (of an answer that’s out of context) can be dangerous, the additional information is in fact important.

Ok, if the problem returns, Surrey Amps is handling Genz Benz and Mesa repairs for the UK.

My understanding is that T is the designator for time lag or time delay or timed opening fuses. Looking at the IEC standards, there are T, TT (even slower opening), F and FF (even faster opening) but the TT and FF are specialty products that we won't see in the MI industry. These only apply to the 5mm x 20mm fuse type, the 6.3mm x 32mm fuses use different designators.

That's what the regulations say, I am not sure of the date of this data though. .75mm^2 is equivalent to our 19 AWG, and our 18 AWG (slightly larger) cordsets are permitted to be used on 20A branch circuits. This is specifically to prevent fire due to a fault in the cordset, it's not best practice for sizing to a load. In our industry, this is addressed under the safety regulations by providing an equipment located fuse or breaker (called an overcurrent protection device) that is sized in conjunction with the specified IEC cordset size. Since most equipment that we are talking about here is typically protected by a T6.3A or smaller fuse, and will work plenty fine (and safely) with a 75 mm^2 cordset. There are a lot of quirky elements to this topic as you can see. Other countries and regions are even more convoluted.

Not necessarily. Using the Subway 115 and 215 as examples, the 8 ohm 115 is rated at 400 watts RMS, the 4 ohm 215 is rated at 800 warts RMS, when driven from the 2 ohm tap (switch position) each DRIVER receives 1/3 of the ~800 watt rated power or about 260 watts which is well below the rated power handling of the driver in those cabinets. Perfectly safe, perfectly good power match as well. Here's the handy table from the owner's manual, and why I strongly recommend reading the owner's manuals for our products: