itu

I like all self made stuff here, be it a kit or a whole instrument. And I would say that there are at least few who can build everything from scratch. On the effects side there are also few very capable wizards I love to follow. Any project is a good project. Keep up the good work!

Graphic pedal units tend to be pretty rough. The difference between a g-word and a bass unit is small. If you need a cheap tool, consider Artec, they also have a parametric that might be an option here.

Exactly, dear @Stub Mandrel Actually I was thinking about ten pics, but...

The picture is cropped, so I suppose there is a bridge? That kind of a system moves the string so much that fine tuning would be next to impossible. Status, Steinberger and all others using double ball end strings have similar bridges. How about Phil Kubicki Ex-Factor:

I do admit that this neck and top wood looks fab but copying the pictures one by one again and again is somewhat disturbing. Everyone please take a minute and consider what to copy and why before putting a one liner after the original post. Thank you all.

It's the XLR out. You can see the transformer connected to the terminals in the schema. That's symmetric signal, i.e. DI out.

You should ask Flea, he certainly knows:

The late Greg Curbow used plywood in necks (rockwood), that strange Aussie has also plywood neck. Many double basses are plywood, wooden aeroplanes are mostly plywood. Guns... https://cwp.fi/en/

If I need to do a thread, my choice is steel over titanium. Ti is light in weight but it is not very good material in screws or gears. Steel (depending on a quality) is much better - and cheaper.

I bought parts to my luthier, because the shop happened to be few hundred meters from my place. The truss rod was dry like a desert. I put some thicker grease to the threads and it changed its behaviour totally. When the bass was ready, the setup couldn't have been easier. A dry thread can be extremely sticky, even some thin oil can help the situation.

...so your watch has to be an IWC GST? I bought a bag for my (wooden) foldable FX board from a sail maker. Robust zipper and good, water resistant textile.

Remember, that a unit's warranty can be far longer than a year or two, if the unit has been faulty since the production line. In this case it seems so. And that should be fixed free of charge, no customs or VAT, please.

If you want to make the system slightly more complicated to carry around, put the power and mixing outside the bass. Like Alembic has that power box. You can put 9 VDC riding to the same stereo audio cable and take it out with simple capacitors at both ends. This is common with video signals, too.

Some ideas seen: Philip Kubicki - Ex-Factor: It has a rotary switch for OFF/STD-BY/ON/ON. Potentiometer(s) with a switch for Active/Passive. Some special jacks have switches in-built, but the choice for M/S (and battery) is not obvious or simple. A tiny switch built to jack plate. A hidden or low-profile switch to the back plate.

...which tells only the DC resistance of the coil, not the impedance.

Minim + three dots = half + quarter + eighth + sixteenth. You could not add a quaver (eighth) after that to a bar of 4/4, dear @FDC484950. Just one extra sixteenth (semiquaver) fills the bar.

https://music-electronics-forum.com/forum/instrumentation/pickup-makers/34606-wire-gauge-is-40-and-41-too-thick-for-anything#post475137

@stewblack: Thank you, and maybe, but the deviation was bad. I think @Doctor J did better, because the deviation was smaller. His package is better in control.

Ouch! This was bad, I expected something easier. For a bassist (I thought so), the beat alignment got really bad, 98. Melodic discrimination was made by piano, no thanks, 117. Only the mistuning perception felt good, scored 149. Overall 121. It is time to start to listen to radio and play. Radio helps my timing and is much easier to listen than any metronome.

Super Symmetry and Duality aren't metal, I think. I had a B3K which was a bit harsh to me (metal?) but those two I mentioned earlier were very good.

Caps tend to keep some of the charge in them. If you want to be on the safe side, use a big resistor and, well, if you knew this, you know what to do.

These quick taken pictures are just phone quality, but give you an idea of the magnets (of the 40DC).

Last page, please: https://www.additive.sandvik/globalassets/5.-news-media-stories/publications/meet-sandvik-mot-sandvik/archive-pdf/meet-sandvik-pdf-archive/2013/meet-sandvik-2013_2.pdf Some material data: https://www.steelestores.com/grade/qb-sandvik-audioflex-a.html 5.5 % Nickel 0.18 % Nitrogen 3.2 % Molybdenum 22 % Chromium The rest is plain Iron (Fe), 69 % https://www.steelestores.com/grade/qb-sandvik-audioflex-e.html 1 % Titanium 9 % Nickel 4 % Molybdenum 2 % Copper 12 % Chromium The rest is Iron, 72 % Here you have two recipes with varying ingredients. These are not the only ones, but represent the family of stainless steels. Stainless steel includes nearly always Nickel, although there are few exceptions to this. Electric instrument string cores do always contain Nickel and the materials are magnetic. Please remember that the core can be very different material from the winding (from plastic tape to SSRW).