whizzzy

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Bought a bass related book off Dave, It arrived promptly, well packed and in perfect condition. A smooth transaction, just like you like it to be. One more good reason why BC is the ideal place to trade.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Highly recommended and would certainly have no hesitation in dealing again. Thanks Dave.[/font][/color]

Opens fine on my computer. If you want to pm your e-mail address I will send you the copy I've downloaded.

Bought some strings from Ian on the afternoon and they arrived in the post the next morning. It doesn't get any better than that! Many thanks Ian.

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Just sold some parts to Mike. Always a pleasure to do business with and is welcome back any time.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thanks Mike[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Bought a mixer amp off Mike[/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]. Drove over to collect it and had a good old bass related chin-wag. Mike[/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] is an absolute gentleman and it's been a pleasure to do business with him. An asset to the BC community and would certainly have no hesitation in trading again.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thanks Mike and hope we get chance to meet up again in the not too distant future.[/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Just sold a pickguard to Justin. Top guy to deal with, great comms and will have no hesitation in doing a deal with him again. A credit to the BC community.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thanks Justin.[/font][/color]

[quote name='Gottastopbuyinggear' timestamp='1495266524' post='3302507'] Could these be the Harley Benton's of lighting? Or are they the Kay's from my mum's seventies mail order catalog... [/quote] You've hit the nail on the head. I don't have any direct experience with the units you have itemised but yes, it is very much a case of you get what you pay for. A couple of comments for guidance though. The first unit with 10mm LEDs is very much old hat now and things have moved on by using fewer LEDs but much higher light output. The downside of using red, green and blue only is that anything other than using red output only, green only or blue only produces a fairly lame colour wash. With all three colours driven the principle is that you should get white. In reality is is a fairly anemic white / cream colour which is produced. The second unit addresses this by having red, green, blue and white LEDs and this will allow much better colour mixing. The downside is that they are 1W devices so again the overall light output will be limited. Keep in mind that any light output figures quoted will be for everything being driven flat out and as soon as you drop down to one colour for example then the light output will be about a quarter of that, at best. The other factor about buying low cost items is that often if you want to buy more units at a later date they have either been discontinued or the design has been changed. This can be very frustrating. In an earlier post RedBandit mentioned the LEDJ 7Q5's. These are quite a bit more expensive than the units you have singled out but I also can recommend these. I use 8 of these for our band and they were bought to replace 8 x PAR 56 Par Cans and they produce about 75% of the light output of the Par Cans but infinitely more variable in colour mixing. Follow your own advice and buy once, cry once.

The whole concept of DMX is that it is an industry standard and so will work alongside other DMX kit from a DMX controller. The only thing to be aware of is that some older DMX gear (and this tended to be the pro-end of the market) used 5 pin xlr's instead of the more common 3 pin xlr's found on the more 'cost effective' gear. Before buying a controller however it is best to do some research as some can be quite complicated to program, it all depends upon what effect and impression you want to achieve. Another option rather than a dedicated controller is to use a lap-top with a USB to DMX controller such as the unit made by Entec for example. There are one or two pieces of free-ware lighting control software out there which can get you up and running relatively cheaply.

Looks like the Celestion is 150W rms - [url="http://celestion.com/product/100/tf1520/"]http://celestion.com/product/100/tf1520/[/url] As to which is best it really all comes down to the suitability of the cabinet dimensions and porting with the particular speaker. The easiest and most effective way is to experiment with each speaker in the cab and try it out.

All of that looks ok. Just be careful that the wires to the capacitor don't touch the metal pick-up plate (its difficult to tell from the photo how close it is). How and where are you connecting the cavity copper screening?

You need to ensure that all of the shielding components (i.e. shielding plates, copper tape, pick-guard shield) are connected to the earth or ground side of the jack connection. This is usually colour coded black but if the wiring has been changed or modified at any time during the life of the bass then it may be necessary to follow back the wiring to determine if it is connected to the hot side of the pick-up (white) or earth / ground side. If any wiring or connections to shielding come in contact with the hot (white wires) then this is when the signal from the pups gets shunted to ground and so the output from the bass is dead. Pay particular attention to any lugs on the pots or the wiring to the tone cap also coming into contact with the copper tape shielding when the pick-guard is put back in place as well. Let us know how you get on.

We're a well established soul and Motown band, gigging regularly throughout the Midlands and further afield and rehearsing in South Birmingham. Our hugely talented keyboard player is moving abroad, so we're looking for somebody pretty special to fill his boots. Hammond sounds are essential and backing vocals a big plus! We need somebody who's ready to go, so you'd need to be confident with all the standard soul and Motown function repertoire and able to commit to rehearsals and dates already booked. Get in touch for a chat to find out more.

10 years is a long time to be in a band and it's no surprise that you'll be feeling a lose end without it. But if it's no longer fun why continue with it? Life is not a dress-rehearsal, it's the real thing. You also say that you have a young family to care for and look after so my advice is to spend more quality time with them and put the bass playing on the back burner for a while. Children grow up very fast and you'll soon be wondering where that time has gone, so even more reason to spend it with them. You can always go back to playing in bands later in life. Good luck with whatever you decide.

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Just sold a graphic eq to Ian. Top guy to deal with, great comms and will have no hesitation in doing a deal with him again. A credit to the BC community.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thanks Ian. [/font][/color]

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Bought a bass case off Chris[/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]. Drove over to collect it and had a good old bass related chin-wag. Chris[/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif] is an absolute gentleman and it's been a pleasure to do business with him. An asset to the BC community and would certainly have no hesitation in trading again.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Thanks Chris.[/font][/color]

I've had problems on one of my Sennheiser e608's where the wire which connects to the mic capsule had broken just at the flexible head point (the wobbly bit!) The wire gets a lot of flexing there and eventually breaks. Is it possible to plug the mics directly into a desk or other mic input point and test it? That will eliminate any potential fault on the wireless packs. If the cable is broken in the mic head then it can be repaired but I have so say it was a pig of a job as you have to extract the length of cable from inside the flexible arm and also from the strain relief molding and then pull some wire through. If you want a more detailed account best pm me and I will give you details. Can't comment on the Nady as I'm not familiar with the design but if you can plug it directly into an input source somewhere at least you can confirm it is the mic part which has the problem or not.