Bigguy2017

First adjust truss rod to set neck to be straight, no relief. With a straight edge check the whole neck is straight, including the upper frets over the body. If there is a hump or ski jump, this can be lessened (a bit) by a fret level (if sufficient meat on the frets). Otherwise it's off with the fretboard, level the neck and re-attach fretboard. Lay straight edge on top of the frets and extend it to touch the bridge - ideally it should just lay on top of the bridge (not the saddle). If it arrives more than a mm or so under this you need a neck reset. This is the most likely situation with an older instrument. The present saddle could be lowered a little (maybe 1mm), but not more due to break angle. As the 12th fret action is 4mm(?) you can only gain 0.5mm by shaving 1mm off the saddle, and that leaves the action at a high 3.5mm. (Remember that 1mm lower at the 12th fret needs 2mm off the saddle). Looks like it needs a neck reset. For the buzzing check for a loose brace, top or back.

BTN Music ?

Bob Marley and The Waiters The Ham David Bogie Pimply Red

Yes, as MD posted, there is virtually no break angle on the A - aim for three full winds or as much as possible down the post. Depth of nut slots is decided by the first fret action, not by looks. Lowering the nut slots will give even less break angle.

Yes, it looks like the lower bit is missing ? (2) Warwick Tutorial: Replacing a Just-a-nut III - YouTube UNLESS... it's a Sadowsky style one - they have a narrower lower part which is NOT visible from the sides Sadowsky Just A Nut III 4 strengs 38,1 mm - gitarist.no

Are you using an HPF on the Studio Live ? Put lots of cut below 35Hz - 50-Hz ish... Could be lots of low frequency mush overloading the input.

Shawn Colvin tonight at The Queen's Hall Edinburgh

Three Sisters 2012 American Standard Jazz Bass V 2015 American Standard Precision Bass 2010 MIJ Mustang Bass

Hi-mass bridges, in my experience, don't change tone much but do effect note attack/delay/sustain. My Ric's pot metal bridge was tail lifting, preventing a playable low action. Replaced with the Hipshot Ric bridge - went with the heavier chromed brass version to help with neck dive. Being unhappy with the base flatness I flatted it with wet 'n' dry. The Ric is now completely different - notes sustain for ever, hardly decay at all - it sounds like a bass synth. Still sounds like a Ric, but more so - certainly different, but for my usage, not better - would be great for doom metal. Playing wise, it's eliminated neck dive and allows a much lower action. Not a fan of Hi-mass bridges - the one I do like is the Fender 007 000 5124 American Standard Bass Bridge (High Mass Vintage ?)- the one like a chunkier BBOT. My totally favourite MIJ Jazz has a bog standard BBOT bridge and I love it. I started by typing "Hi-mass brides" - something else entirely

Audio Technica ATH-M50 for over-ears KZ-ZS10 Pro X driven by Hotone Thunder Bass nano amp for IEMs

Thomann or Amazon when the price is right.

A pair of Rode M3s or if you want super cheap the Behringer C-2 Stereoset

Needle-nose pliers - carefully

That's what's called 'motorboating'... something has gone into oscillation. Many possible causes - bad connections, dry joint, bad cap, bad component among them.

When does a 'copy' become a fake? With the brand labels this is clearly a fake.

Does she do 'Don't Kill The Whale' next?

The body has a massive split with some very dodgy glue...

Yes, that's all original Fender Japan wiring.

The Neutrik website and catalogue are no help - they still have the discontinued models - very confusing. I've got a few NL4FX on hand, and they're still in stock with CPC / RS but if I need more it might have to be the newer ones NL4FXX 37 A 250 V AC NLT4FXX 30 A 250 V AC NLT4FXX-BAG 30 A 250 V AC

Even the Neutrik ones are different thicknesses - here's an NL2FC, an NL4FX, and an NL4FC. Weird....

Orchestras do this all the time...

You can wiggle a bit of pipe insulation over the left-hand arm bit - this helps offset basses sit level

The Palmer AHMCT8 one does Speakons - and it has probes + buzzer - very handy £46 inc P+P at Thomann https://www.thomann.de/gb/adam_hall_ahmct8.htm