prowla

My '78 and '88 have push-pull pots. 🙂

Gotta pay for the Fezza and the missus...

Every time I see a de-fretted bass I think "that needs a refret".

Not a chance in hell...

Mind you, it looks a positive bargain next to the £20k asking price for a real Ric CS model from our friends at Essex. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185771683307 (Note: that is not Chris Squire's actual one!)

Unfortunately the owner has sunk a lot of money into it and thinks it "owes him" that back. It needs some remedial work (look at the action) and note that there's not a shot of the rear of the headstock; I offered him £150 for it a while back.

They are really very good basses and I agree regarding the pice (I have a 1 and a 1A). Now, that Mighty Mite would've been something - it wasn't the Peter Cook model was it?

Those are nice. (And it's good to see they're doing other than the Warwick shapes!) 🙂

Nice Ric! (But then again, all Rics are nice...) You did reattach the Gnd wire when putting back the bridge/tailpiece unit, right? There's no need to remove the strings to adjust the truss rods and 1/4 turn is quite a lot; older Rics needed a different technique to Fenders to adjust the rods (ie, push the neck backwards at the 1st fret and use the rod adjuster to hold it in place), but that was sorted by the time of the 4003. I'd be inclined to remove the Treble pickup cover and put a black bezel in to fill the hole; that does require undoing the surround plate and unscrewing the height adjuster screws, plus taking take of the rather flimsy wires. Has yours got the push-pull Treble Tone pot? (I'm not sure they were doing them in '97.) Incidentally, the tuners are, I believe, made by Schaller.

I think you may be onto something there. (I have one of each, BTW!)

I think you can get an adapter to split the headphone audio from the whatever-it-is-socket they've put on the phone this season.

So, it may be a Molex connector, like in a PC, or something similar which is rated at a higher voltage. and the pins are: Ground (power and signal) +ve rail, which may be 30V, 36V, or perhaps 71V, current unsure. Signal. -ve rail, as per +ve. n/a n/a I'm pretty sure it's originally from a head or combo, but the power supply/amp stage has presumably shuffled off this mortal coil and so the question is whether it can be converted to a standalone preamp and whether it is worth the effort. The background is I've been looking at buying it, probably for £50, but I think I'm going to pass, as it'll just be another project for me (I seem to collect projects!). If anybody's interested, it's on FB Marketplace: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/564451868674188/

It wouldn't need to read them; the Minitaur (and other synths) patches operate independently of the physical controls, so you program and push them from a PC. (Of course, having motorised controls which shift to match the patch would add a big cost and wouldn't work for the Model D's accurately styled rocker switches.)

You missed the other option: 🙂

Thanks for the input, folks. No, I don’t have the power stage; iI am looking at this as a stand-alone preamp. Getting a suitable power supply might be a bit of an ask.

🙂 Was kindof hoping for something a bit more precise than that! (For sure it's power, BTW, but may also include signal.)

What's this connector on the back of an old Trace Elliot GP11 preamp?

It’s common practice - they speculate that they’ll win the selling race and then be able to pick up the instrument from the actual seller to fulfil their sale.

If it goes over that it'll be too much.

The seller says it's made in W. Germany, because that's on the (Schaller) tuners.