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ZilchWoolham

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Everything posted by ZilchWoolham

  1. The Japanese Aria Pro II's ranged from great value to flat out terrific instruments. Anything simply labelled Aria, especially from the later non-Japanese runs, is in general nothing to get too excited about. If Bassassin stops by this thread I think he could tell you everything you'd ever need to know about Aria!
  2. Thinking about making an offer on a 74 Precision. What's a reasonable price to pay? Non-original hardcase, one changed pot, otherwise seemingly original with black scratchplate and in rather pretty but certainly not pristine condition. 

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Marc S

      Marc S

      Have seen them go for around £1500 - £2000 mark. But depends on model / colour / condition etc.
      One going locally to me recently, started out at £2000 (which I didn't think it was worth)
      ended up going down to £1500 but still didn't sell that quickly... went in the end, but don't know how much for
      Put your offer in - they can only say no (if it's not too low - or you might get another phrase lol)
      Good luck

    3. Burns-bass

      Burns-bass

      Play it first. Some of the mid-70s Precisions were absolute dogs. Does it come with the original bridge and pickup covers? I"d say £1500 is reasonable if it plays well and is all original (aside from the changed pot), but make sure you give it a try first! 

    4. ZilchWoolham

      ZilchWoolham

      Thanks for the replies! As it happens, I just found a 1972 Precision, and the seller is asking less than £2K. I've sent him a message asking whether it's all in original condition. Would I be correct to assume that the two years from '74 to '72 would be reflected in the price (albeit not to the same degree as the difference between a '72 and a '70)? The condition is a bit rougher, though, with some rather severe belt buckle rash (bare wood). 

  3. Was the JG one of them? It's awful whenever any bass is stolen, but that one in particular would be a loss not just to the owner, but to anyone interested in bass history (especially UK bass history) as well.
  4. 1. If I can buy it in a shop I probably will, unless there's a big price difference. I'm incredibly impatient when waiting for deliveries. 2. I do prefer it, but more often than not it's not an option. 3. Vintage gear, lesser-known brands and a nice selection of strings. An awful lot of shops seem to be focused around the big brands, and entry level to mid-range gear, which I can't really fault them for too much since I'm assuming that's what keeps them afloat. It is very boring, though. 4. I've travelled 2½ hours by train for a guitar, and would probably do it again for the right item. I would only do this, though, if I could see the stock online, and make sure it's still there when I arrive. 5. A focus on vintage and unique gear. Ideally, I'd walk in and be greeted with old Wals, Hamers, Martins, Tokais and Acoustic 360/361 stacks! I'd also love to see more folk, historical and "world" instruments, but that might be a bit too niche to be financially sound, if you're not actually the Early Music Shop. Oh, and vintage synths, too!
  5. This guy... this is not my kinda guy.
  6. They're definitely niche, but I can see them appealing to modern metal players. I must also congratulate them on making the world's first non-Euclidean necks. They look completely and utterly unplayable. My hands are hurting just looking at them. I can't conceive of anything more uncomfortable. Are they forged by Shub-Niggurath herself or retrieved from the depths of the sunken city of R'lyeh?
  7. That would be a shame. One thing I actually respect Gibson for is their refusal to stamp their non-US guitars with the (lone) Gibson brand. Makes things less confusing. If you're buying a Gibson, you're getting a US made guitar. You might not be getting a good guitar, mind, but it will be made in the states.
  8. There are very few instruments I can't enjoy in the proper context, but pedal steel guitar gets awfully close, probably because I haven't really heard them outside of country. If someone were to plug one in to a plexi on full whack and pour out some blues I probably wouldn't mind it.
  9. Craigslist has never really caught on in the UK, and as a result, it's populated mostly by scammers, as others have stated above. If it looks to good to be true, it absolutely, definitely is. The site is just an older looking, older feeling, less functional Gumtree anyway.
  10. I've decided to get myself a good high-end microphone to suit a number of different applications (various acoustic instruments, guitar and bass cabinets, vocals), since one (1) is all I can justify at the moment. I'm torn between a KM84 and a U87 (clone). The KM84 sounds incredibly sweet and natural on acoustic instruments, but I haven't heard it being used for vocals or cab miking. The U87 sounds great for everything and more versatile thanks to the pattern switch, but perhaps not QUITE as sweet as the KM84 in certain applications. Does anyone here have any experiences with the KM84 as a vocal or cab mic? Then there's also the KMS84, which might just be the better option, IF it does indeed sound just like the KM when the windscreen is removed.

    1. Show previous comments  4 more
    2. ZilchWoolham

      ZilchWoolham

      Better than Warm! That is to say, more accurate anyway. Stam Audio. And yes, I'm veering towards the U87, I think. The KM84 is a bloody nice sounding mic, though. 

    3. ZilchWoolham

      ZilchWoolham

      I was quite floored by a comparison between a vintage U87, the Warm and the Stam. The Warm sounded nice, but different, while the Stam sounded identical. 

    4. SICbass

      SICbass

      If it's high quality and versatility that you're after, have you had a look at these? They're getting a lot of love all over the interweb at the minute.

      http://slatedigital.com/virtual-microphone-system/

      Here's a video reviewing the system.

       

       

  11. Discreet, I think you're replying to arguments nobody here has even put forth. At most, some people are considering if a ban on instruments with fake logos (which may or may not be criminal) would be a good idea, for the benefit of buyers everywhere. I think this is a very pertinent discussion, considering we are on Basschat, and the insinuation that those who do object to fake logos are sheltered and fragile people with no experience of "real" issues is downright insulting, which I'm suspecting was your intention, although of course I'd gladly be proven wrong.
  12. Like previous posters, I don't think there's a problem with sellers on BC trying to swindle anyone with fake Fenders, but it could be a problem further down the road, since we don't know what will happen once it's changed hands a couple of times. I'm perfectly fine with people playing and owning instruments with fake logos, but I don't think you should sell them on with the logo intact, even if you advertise them as such, simply because the next owner might not be as honest as yourself.
  13. "Solid body again" he said, tapping a hollowed out body made from dried porridge.
  14. I'm wondering if maybe there should be some criteria imposed for inclusion. Perhaps I should at least try to organise the list in some way beyond alphabetical order. It's getting to be quite long now, and I think there's a rather large discrepancy between some of the shops listed in terms of relevance to bassists (particularly those looking for vintage gear). Some deal exclusively in vintage basses, while others have as few as three used basses in stock. Any suggestions welcome!
  15. The original 80's SB-1000 had a really wide nut at a whopping 45mm. On the other hand, the string spacing was narrower than standard at the bridge. The SB-R models (not to be confused with the RSB models) had normal string spacing and a narrower nut, and the SB Elite models had normal string spacing and the narrowest nut of the bunch, at 40mm. As far as I know only the dual pickup SB-R150 had the same "attack mode" switch as the SB-1000, though.
  16. That is correct. I don't know why they have it that way, but that's how it's been done ever since the series' inception. The V prefix has remained the same, too. EDIT: To nail down a specific year, anyway. I'm sure some changes have been made over the years. For guitars the fret markers at the twelfth fret were changed to a more accurate position in 1998, and I assume the same happened to the basses.
  17. Updated with three German shops! One was brought to my attention by @Creeper in this thread; the other two I found while Googling vintage Hamers. Overall, the prices aren't... well, the lowest I've seen. Occasionally, with smaller establishments, there are deals to be made, but I'm not familiar enough with German customs to assume anything. Vintage Guitar in Oldenburg does have a rather extensive stock.
  18. Was it still functional afterwards?
  19. Well, if the Antiques Roadshow hasn't convinced you to go to more car boot sales, this thread definitely should!
  20. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  21. It definitely sounds like an active Jazz and a passive Precision, and as a matter of fact, I prefer the Precision! I think, at least for now, you just prefer the sound of a Jazz bass. But, like chris_b said, there are many variations on the Precision, and you could certainly find one that's closer to your ideal tone.
  22. The active/passive terminology can be a bit confusing as a bass can have active pickups but a usual passive tone circuit, which is what it seems Aidan has, or active pickups with an active pre-amp/tone circuit, or passive pickups with an active pre-amp/tone circuit. EMG's active pickups all have a built in pre-amp that doesn't offer any tone-shaping, but is simply there to boost the signal to a usable level. Passive pickups work on the principle that with more windings, the output is increased, the mid-range is boosted and the highs and (I think) lows are tamed. Because an active pickup uses a fewer number of windings and instead uses their own preamps to boost the signal, the output is high while being significantly more detailed in the far reaches of the audio spectrum. This, as far as I know, all happens within the pickup itself. Then the signal can be fed either to a normal passive tone stack (EDIT) tone/volume combo, directly to the output, or to an active EQ system. Some of the basses we call active, though, don't actually have active pickups, but rather traditional pickups fed into an active EQ. I'm hoping I didn't just add to the confusion here!
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