mybass

Yes, many moons ago I took a 70s P Bass to Kent Armstrong who was rewinding pickups using a breadboard with a rotating arm and clock to count the windings. He took my P bass pickup(s) off, uncovered them and used a blade to cut through the black magnetic cotton type windings. They immediately frayed up as they weren’t potted in wax or other stuff. He explained what was happening with Fender pickups at the time using cheaper materials and how they weren’t producing good tone. He rewound the P Bass (and a subsequent jazz pickup) with proper job wire and potted it in wax.

Its also a case of making certain before installing a bridge, that the base plate is flat for the best contact to the body. I've had bridges from two well known companies that needed grinding work to flatten them. One company advised I screw down hard on the (thick) plate to help flatten it when installing. Give me a break!

I’ve sold stuff on gumtree to local area people.

I'm not sure what the 'latest' version is but this may help though you are likely to have checked Thomann...https://www.thomann.de/gb/markbass_new_york_121.htm

And your doctors is ...? 😄 Glad you got through the gig okay if not ‘over the top’ a bit. Maybe still have a good look at positioning etc in playing, I just hate hearing of an operation going to happen before a non invasive technique could suffice. A simple change of elbow position pointed out to me by my teacher when I was learning double bass stopped an ongoing wrist pain.

The alternatives of finding a top osteopath may benefit before surgery as the last resort. My U.K. practitioner immediately asked me how I held the bass, height and angle. I see him once maybe twice a year and it is quite amazing how a problem in the wrist may be sourced from a shoulder or elbow misalignment. I’m not saying that’s what your problem is but, it may well be coming from another part of your body and not the actual wrist.

Maybe the sound guys gear wasn’t working correctly?

Sometimes it’s the sound of fretted bass that isn’t ‘right’ on the night. Im told by my bass friends and punters alike that my fretless basses have the ability to be heard with note attack and clarity, no matter what flavour song the band is playing. I used to struggle with this level of clarity with fretted basses, that was my ‘thing’ about fretless over fretted. I can use fretted on some songs but on other songs the fretted bass sound seems to disappear on stage.

Any neck changeover can have problems and this is one of them. Yes you may find the neck ‘wanders’ ever so slightly. I can remember Fenders with oversized neck slots many years ago that had that slight movement in them. You don’t say if the replacement neck has existing screw holes and if it does, their alignment with the existing body holes is of paramount importance as a mismatch may also pull the neck slightly out of true alignment. (If this neck is the ‘one’ that will always stay on the bass now, then perhaps investigating the bolt and neck screw insert system but....a lot more work!) something like these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-Guitar-Neck-Threaded-STEEL-INSERTS-STAINLESS-Oval-SCREWS-ALLEN-WRENCH/281226786661?hash=item417a6c3765:g:RRMAAOSwhvFZDLSD

There are two or more Stentor Student basses I’ve seen online with different woods for different priced models so yours may be a cheap or more expensive model. If it’s a cheap one you may feel it better to spend on upgrading your bass and purchasing from a dealer (or shop like Chas Footes or Thwaites) who may set the bass up as part of the sale. Instead of continuous spending on my first laminated bass, after 18 months with it I purchased an old bass from an antique shop and had it ‘seen to’ by my DB luthier, setting it up and fixing splits n cracks. It has needed further work over the years, they will need it. I just wish I played it more! It was a definite improvement on sound (and looked a whole lot cooler!). Cheaper hard to play/get a sound from basses have their use in making you work that bit more to achieve sound but ultimately can be damaging if they don’t ‘play’ well, possibly causing finger, wrist or arm discomfort. Perhaps a bass tutor or other more experienced double bassist could look over your bass and help out.

No distribution for the U.K. and Europe and all the ‘deals’ have sold out. I’m always (rightly/wrongly?) a bit sceptical of the facebook adverts but the product looks like a good product.

1/ ... The existing one you say is 'loose' ...in what way? If the whole assembly is feeling loose when you plug the guitar lead in then try to tighten up the internal nut that is fitting over the barrel. If you mean as I've assumed that the jack plug feels loose 'within' the barrel then yes, change the barrel. 2/...I can make out a red and white wire but not where they go to. Here is a picture off the web that may help. The tip is the 'hot/signal' and the chassis/cable clamp is the 'earth'. 3/...Im assuming you only need a mono signal output and there is not a battery involved.

You can use either a stereo or mono one, the stereo one only needs the correct tag wired up to work. Neutrik are always the best connectors. Be aware that some barrel type jack sockets have a miniscule difference in the internal circumference and the jack plug can feel a little loose and not make the best contact so buying the best is ....best!

https://schaller.info/en/machine-heads/287/bass-bm the bmf will be on another page. You need to check the hole sizes.

Les Paul and Mary Ford was in my parents vinyl collection and his playing grabbed my ear with his bass lines underpinning his guitar top lines.

I took it apart, cleaned the laser but its still a non happening thing. I get the feel from talking to a repair shop that its probably not worth repairing.

A smooth deal gone through with great comms and payment even though he was in the middle of moving, much appreciated Crispin.

Ive had a Teac twin deck CD player/recorder for a while but the recording deck jumps when trying to play or record. The player only deck is fine. One repair shop simply told me its not worth trying to repair it. Anyone ever repaired one or have any idea if its repairable? (I'm told that dealing with the laser is not advisable).

Sennheiser HD 600...you might find on Ebay these days and cheaper than when they came out some time ago. I also use KRK KNS-8400, much cheaper than Sennheiser and pretty good listening value.

I’d be interested too. For those need to see.... https://lacemusic.com/collections/8/products/aluma-bass-bar-3-5-for-4-and-5-string-basses

......or use Titebond (used for luthier work) just a smear along the nut underside will hold it in place and make it relatively easy to tap it out in future. Any decent wood glue should do the trick..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Titebond-Original-Wood-Glue-All-Sizes-With-Glue-Applicator-4oz-8oz-16oz-32oz-3-8/191376995148?hash=item2c8ef5334c:m:m1MCR-25esHXOoGhek7NT0Q

If you are going to ‘Jaco’ it, first (get a luthier to) take the frets out then leave it a while to see if the neck comes back in without the frets. It may show that the original fret slots and frets were not wide enough, forcing neck bend and yes, I’ve had a new Fender neck do that! A good re-cut of the fret slots and new frets may then be good to go. It’s a bit of a long shot but I can’t figure why after many years of being perfect the neck would start to warp.