SpondonBassed

A Barngibson. A Barngibbon maybe? Barnbass Basscrate Jimbass?

Then it is also possible to determine how much of his shizzle is pure bluff.

Trips right off the tongue doesn't it? Heeheehee

What would that style be called then?

I can't think what you're referring to. I'm young and no-one has ever nibbled my tang for me. 'Til now that is. Will you bring flowers next time please? Now that you've given me the idea I might take some time while I lock myself in the shed and invent The De-nibber™. Someone's sure to want to sell fountain pens to hipsters and start a revival in sales of blotting paper and Quink. Joking aside; Although I've only ever built from a kit so far - I've come around to thinking that if I did, I'd start off making necks with as standard a heel as is possible so that I can try them with different bodies. For me, the neck is the bit that's crucial to the character of an instrument. The tactile aspect of it interests me particularly. If it feels right, it usually plays right too. Frets are the tricky bit though. I hate the thought of hand finishing 48 fret ends for a double octave fretboard but it's gotta be done. I quite like the idea of a bound neck too. That means doing all of the frets to size before pressing them home. Nerve racking if you get one wrong. Great build my friend. Have some Afro-Celt sound system:

Isn't that what's called "Steam Punk" these days? I've avoided commenting on the guitars because they are guitars but I have to say I'm not a fan of the style so much. This is a bass however. That aside, it was better before. I think it looks contrived now perhaps because of the sanded back effect behind the new graphic. Sorry.

I don't think this came out as intended. As long as you don't remember anything bad about it, I'm happy. I'm interested to hear what you used it for because you say you used it a lot. Were you using it with the X15 four track or with other stuff?

Does we have any information as to how far apart James Curleigh's nipples were at the time of the photo-shoot?

I am happy to stand down in that case. Enjoy.

Has anyone used one of these compressors extensively? I've just got mine out of storage and dusted it off. I never got the opportunities to play with it properly at the time of purchase and then of course... tech moved on. The review says it works well with semi-pro equipment. I'd like to use it again because the four channel mixer may provide some interesting options for me. I am particularly interested to see if anyone's used one at a gig. I have a Roland TR-606 that will almost certainly sound better running through one of the channels and mixed with my bass on t'other. Instant one man rhythm section - hoorah! I have a Zoom B3 with several compressor models on it too. It should be fun comparing new and old tech.

Yet it doesn't show up in your gait.

Flattered.

Is that the thing that looks like a school compass? What's it for please?

@Burns-bass was here first so I'll wait my turn.

Are they Superwound for 34 inch scale by any chance? You can tell because only the core wire of each string touches its respective saddle. The windings start between the bridge and the bridge pup. If they're superwound and if @BreadBin doesn't have them and they are for a 3 over 2 headstock I would like to put my name down on your shortlist.

Oh that's going to be a stunner with the hardware on. Good luck with the move. I trust we will hear from you when you've got the family safely settled in Italy.

BC's a great place to be innit.

I will be eternally grateful that you did not start off with a fart. With us older fellows, we all know what the follow-through will be like.

A wise musician tried to warn us many years ago...

I looked up the wiki for WD40 and as Fleabag says, WD stands for Water Displacement. The main wiki says that the 40 indicates that it was formula number 40 that the firm's boffins claimed had achieved the desired effect. While I can not dispute that, it is not what we were told during an aero mechanic's apprenticeship, forty years ago. I'm holding onto that. Either story is just that. It's up to you what you believe but the water displacement thing is well proven and you will need to re-apply the stuff periodically on whatever piece of ferrous metal or electrical equipment you want kept dry. It may or may not last for forty days. How long it lasts will depend on how often you get sweaty enough to saturate your bridge I suppose.

Bang on. Plus Gas is in fact an easing fluid. It's thinner than 3 in 1 penetrating oil too so it works a little quicker when you need to try and salvage a seized screw. It's best to take the bridge off before you use it however because it will get everywhere you don't want it to be.

WD 40 is a code that I seem to remember the US Navy or Air Force stores came up with for a compound that is capable of displacing water from the surfaces to which it is applied for a minimum of 40 days. Adam is correct. It was never manufactured to lubricate anything. It is however a good treatment to help prevent rust from happening in the first instance. All you need is a little spray on saddle screw threads that have been wire brushed free of loose particles and a dab with an absorbent rag to remove excess before reinstalling them. It will stop water from sweat or elsewhere from creating favourable conditions for rust. Lubricating oil is not usually needed for properly machined saddle screws in the quantity that it would take to protect all surfaces if indeed at all. WD40 is therefore a good call. If you don't gig and you don't need the sweatproofing, use dry powdered graphite (pencil "lead" scrapings will do) to coat the threads. That way you can preclude the escape of lubricating oil onto paint finishes or into exposed wood grain. For rust to occur, three things need to be present: 1. Iron or other Ferrous metal alloy (including most grades of SS believe it or not) 2. Water 3. Oxygen Eliminate any one of those three things and rust can not occur. Note: It is well worth paying for the best fitting screw driver or allen key you can afford to use on your saddles. The screw heads will last longer that way.

Welcome Baccarin.

Welcome Mitchell.

I am sorry. I didn't intend to give the impression that I was knocking your nuts. I am well in favour of precise nuts. Everyone should have 'em, even the lasses.