Hellzero

And here come the fresh photos taken today on the mandatory 400 years old oak floor.

It won't hurt at all. 😉

You have something with a digital power supply close to your Celinder @ped, or even a watch can do that ticking noise too. There are two ways to suppress this : find the "faulty" device and discard it or make a real full shielding of the Celinder (which is not the best part of Celinder basses, that said).

There you go @hooky_lowdown. This schematic from Cadfael works for 2 Jazz Bass pickups too or whatever type you want.

I've done this mod on my Rebellion Jazz Bass : It's the top of versatility as you get that classic tone with both pickups working in parallel (standard wiring), but also the same in series, meaning you can use each volume independently on both positions, and that's really useful. A very clever design. That said put a push-push instead of a push-pull, it's a real game changer.

I play whatever fretless, lined or unlined, and dots at the fretted position on fretless don't bother me. There is no true fretless, there is fretless. The only "issue" with lined fretless is that you're always tempted to look at your fingers and don't play with your ears, but your eyes, which won't help improve your intonation, especially in low light situation...

Utterly insanely overpriced as I said, Mick. But it's what people are prepared to pay for a Wal nowadays. I hope they won't cry blood tears when the market gets back to normality...

If you plan to sell the bass, which is something will all end up doing, don't do anything to this Zon that will turn it into an obviously diy modified bass (and all your layouts are just suggesting this). And as @Doctor J said, you didn't miss the mid control before, so...

Because this bridge works great with these Fender basses and many others. Each time I've put another bridge, I simply noticed that it adds strictly nothing sound wise to that BBOT bridge. Simplicity is often the best way to achieve a goal.

It's indeed a Wal Mk1 as it only has 21 positions (or frets for a fretted bass). I had the same in the 90's when nobody was wanting them anymore, bought back 3 times (I know, I know) for peanuts and definitely sold for peanuts too...

I love it! It's way too pricey, but it's beautiful!

They are also utterly overpriced!

Already insanely overpriced. 🤦‍♂️

Thanks for the review in that strange language @ped . The case is an Ibanez case from the same period that will perfectly fit my 1987 Ibanez SR 1000 CT-1. I'll try to find an original or later Vigier soft case.

This is my newly acquired Vigier Arpège Delta Metal Fretless from 1981 and bearing number 005. It weights 4.670 kilos, which is quite heavy for my broken back, but I will never sell it as it took me more than 20 years to find one in such a good condition... I bought it from the original owner who acquired it on the 2nd of September 1981 for 6417 French Francs, so the equivalent of todays 2806 Euros, but the official retailing price was 7130 French Francs, so the equivalent of todays 3118 Euros. I received the original invoice, the original user manual in French and the rare charger as these basses were intended to be used with 2 rechargeable 9 Volts batteries, way back in 1981! For those not aware of these Delta Metal fretless basses, the fingerboard is made out of a brass alloy consisting of copper (55%), zinc (41-43%) and iron (1-3%), with the balance consisting of various other metals, called ... Delta Metal and these very early fretless models had factory lines as well as a truss rod! So better photos to come next week... And with all the papers.

Photos are back...