escholl

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='1300204' date='Jul 11 2011, 07:28 PM']I thought the tubes had had it. So I turned the amp off, let it cool down for a good 15 minutes and with an antistatic cloth, I removed each valve and cleaned the outside with the cloth, never touched them with my fingers as I've heard that they are as delicate as halogen light and grease from your fingers can cause them to burn a heath spot, so again I fitted them all back, made sure they all fitted firmly in the socket. Wiped them again, turned the amp on, waited a minute for the valves to warm up again, plugged the same bass back in, turned the stand-by on, and as if by magic that static noise finally disappeared. The only thing I can imagine is that dust must have caused some static or something, but one thing is for sure, after I cleaned them and fitted them back firmly it's not made a single bit of noise since. So far, so good and it's been 2 days since I've done that and it's still fine. Finger crossed.[/quote] One of the connections in a valve socket had probably just oxidised a bit, it can happen with time and I think the particular timing of it was probably just coincidence. The act of removing the valves and re-seating them was likely enough to re-establish a good connection. I wouldn't expect it to happen again soon but if it does at least you know what you need to do. It's okay to touch valves with your fingers by the way, they're not like halogen lights -- but they can be hot if they've just been on of course, so do still be careful

Yea, that's sounds quite simple actually, it's most likely that the main power filtering caps need either replacement, or have simply got a broken connection. I mean, it could be other things, but it's most likely this. How the repairer could charge you 144 quid and miss that is so shocking, it actually makes me feel a bit sick.

[quote name='Nostromo' post='1160421' date='Mar 13 2011, 02:07 PM']...motor-boating noises, crackling & popping noises, and intermittent volume loss... Nostromo[/quote] [quote name='Sunburst79' post='1193484' date='Apr 9 2011, 03:54 AM']These units seemed to be designed to be field serviced and for whatever reason Fender used 148 "Fast-On" Connectors! (Spade terminal connectors) to connect various sub assembly's to the main circuit board. While the unit was apart I made point of going through and rocking each connector to ensure it was making good contact. A bad connection here is going to act exactly like a cold solder joint. Its worth taking your amp apart and checking these connectors.[/quote] Don't know if you have this fixed yet Nostromo, but Sunburst79's advice is exactly what I would suggest. It sounds to me exactly like either a dirty/poor valve socket or dry joint/loose spade connection. [quote name='Nostromo' post='1260976' date='Jun 8 2011, 11:31 AM']Are there easy steps that can be taken to discharge any potentially dangerous components so that you know the amp is safe to work on ?[/quote] Well, if you don't really know what you're looking for then the easiest way is probably to just take a voltmeter, and measure across any capacitors in there (obviously with the unit off). This will do two things, it will tell you if there is any potentially dangerous voltage present (generally considered to be >50V), and it will also drain out that voltage through the high impedance of the voltmeter...how long it takes will depend on the cap size and the meter impedance. May take a little while on big caps to get down from 400-ish volts to below 50, but most of the caps should be drained naturally after a minute or two anyway, just by shutting the amp off. Most amps drain within a few minutes of shutoff, some may hold a charge for a little while. If it's not been used recently it is almost certainly perfectly fine, although always a good idea to be cautious anyway.

Omeg will do them but you'd need to buy 10 of them at least, probably not helpful. Anti-log pots are generally not too common, but you could always try the regular log version and connect it in reverse -- it will work the same way, however the pot rotation will be inverted in this case. May or may not be an issue for you, I don't know. What is wrong with it? Sometimes they can be fixed too, if it's worth it...

[quote name='whimsy23' post='1296581' date='Jul 7 2011, 10:44 PM']Took it to the shop last saturday, the guy messed around with it, said it seemed ok to him. Said take it back and if it's not alright he'll replace it. So, took it to practice again tonight, new leads, new patch leads, my own head etc - still happening. Played with the knobs and it seems when I turn the blend pot up past half, it drops off and with blend up full, there's no sound at all - that's not right is it?[/quote] I've a fair idea what it might be but in any case it's a new pedal and not down to you to fix it -- take it back, and insist on a replacement. Based on the descriptions you've given, it is [i]definitely[/i] a fault, hence you need a replacement.

If you don't need the amp simulation, you may be better off going for one of the M-series (M5, M9, M13) as they are a bit more compact. Supposedly, the effects modelling is better as well, although I've not heard it myself so can't say.

[quote name='gypsyjazzer' post='1295468' date='Jul 6 2011, 11:59 PM']I have a Schatten D/B pickup which is powered by a 9v battery. Question: Can I eliminate the 9v battery with a mains addaptor? If so, details of the mains addaptor please.[/quote] Yes, I don't see any reason why you wouldn't be able to do this. One of [url="http://www.johnnyshredfreak.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=24"]these[/url] and one of [url="http://www.johnnyshredfreak.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=12"]these[/url] should do the trick. Alternatively, one of [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/ac-dc-multi-voltage-20w-power-supply-32754"]these[/url] (any 9V supply would work, I just happen to have that one so can recommend it) with [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/dc-power-line-sockets-43091?ordercode=JK11M"]this[/url] and [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/pp3-type-battery-snap-44392"]this[/url].

[quote name='TomKent' post='1293022' date='Jul 5 2011, 07:04 AM']I'll do a photo at the next session I'm allowed to take photos at - because that plus three more basses is quite a sight![/quote] Interesting, I'd never heard of Krampera. What would you compare it to?

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='1295410' date='Jul 6 2011, 11:30 PM']mark 2 talent pedal will get its first airing at next saturdays gig [/quote] does this one do anything? I've actually done a 'talent booster' myself, but it's really just a preamp with amusing things, ie there's a 'gender' control which blends between the original signal and the octave up fuzz, that sort of thing. i'm considering doing a DSP version with rotary encoders instead of knobs, that way I can program it such that no matter how you turn the knobs, it only goes louder lol.

[quote name='paulbass' post='1295373' date='Jul 6 2011, 11:04 PM']Thanks for your advice escholl. I dont get any noise from it at all....i've been told its got to be something from the jack input to the pre amp causing the problem but no idea what.Its a strange one as it didnt give any warning of packing up.No pop,bang or puff of smoke just silence![/quote] if it was just the pre-amp i'd think you'd still get some hiss from the poweramp when you turned it on, along with the usual 'thump' noise most amps make. it might just be a loose connection from the power-amp board to the rear speaker connections -- can you get any signal out of the DI output?

[quote name='Balcro' post='1295388' date='Jul 6 2011, 11:13 PM']Further to your post No. #14 above:- Wooks79 has a SS power amp section to his SVT3 Pro and its operated into a vented cabinet, which displays that typical double peak impedance (red-line) plot. Therefore from your explanation, can it be assumed that amp will be reasonably comfortable under such conditions? Balcro.[/quote] Any well-designed SS head will be fine with any cabinet type. It's also worth pointing out that valve amps have been paired with vented enclosures successfully and without issue for many years. A simple magnitude plot of the impedance doesn't quite tell the whole story, and to be honest I wouldn't worry about it too much.

does it make any noise at all when you turn it on? a thump, speakers hissing faintly, anything? my guess would be it's something fairly simple, but given your situation I would just take it to a tech, if you know one locally.

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1294525' date='Jul 6 2011, 11:35 AM'][url="http://runoffgroove.com/ruby.html"]http://runoffgroove.com/ruby.html[/url] I found this that I might put together later on if the idea works out. Would like to see your tuner amp spec as well escholl, more ideas hanging about to steal from the better. [/quote] lol! my tuner one is a lot simpler than that, literally about 6 components which i just tweaked a bit to work better for bass. the only issue with the Ruby is that in it's current state it's not going to let through a lot of bass -- in fact the roll off starts around 400 Hz into a 4 ohm load. so, I've tweaked it a bit, as I really like this idea and think it is something I'll use. i've designed a distortion pedal around a 386 before, might as well properly do an amp too. I would use the attached version over the Ruby, but the choice is up to you. if you really want to strip it down, you can do away with R6, R7, C2 and C4. Q1 can be literally any n-channel FET you can find, the only difference will be to the overall gain levels and the difference won't be massive. one final note, the schematic software I use writes anything over 1000 uF as a millifarad (mF) -- thus the output cap is 2200uF (or 2.2mF), and not 2.2uF.

I built a 1 watt amp into my tuner -- powers my full rig pretty bloody loud, even louder if you don't mind an over-driven sound, but then I have very efficient cabs. Sounds ace too, although obviously not on the same level as either of my proper amps. Runs on anywhere between 3 and 12 volts (the higher the voltage, the louder it goes before clipping), powers a 4 ohm load quite happily. Imagine it would run quite well off of a 12V lead acid battery for portable use. Only about a half-dozen components in the whole thing, found it as a kit when going through my stuff one day, but can send you my revised circuit diagram of it if you like -- it's a dead easy build (assuming you don't try to stuff it into a tuner! lol)

I used one a few times, really liked it. Convinced a mate to buy one secondhand, he really liked his as well. Great little amps, very usable.

[quote name='Moos3h' post='1263344' date='Jun 9 2011, 10:02 PM']I'm yet to hear a situation where an Eminence Kappalite 15" hasn't sounded, ahem "teh awesome1!1" so my vote would go for that.[/quote] This is also my recommendation. Although, other options are certainly available.

[quote name='KingBollock' post='1294023' date='Jul 5 2011, 09:54 PM']I recently bought an old Peavey 410TX but it has a problem (other than the ugly flames someone has painted on the front...). At certain frequencies, it farts. I'm fairly certain that it's the L-Pad causing the problem, when I turn the knob on the back it sounds like opening a rusty gate. So I'm going to have a go at reconditioning it myself. I do have some experience with electronics and have relevant testing equipment. But I thought I would ask here if anyone else has had any experience with the insides of this cab, or any cab likely to have the same insides, as it's too late in the evening to start now (I've never had a complaint form the neighbours but I don't want to upset them). I'm hoping that just cleaning stuff up will do the trick, but if it doesn't are the parts that might need replacing readily available? Such as the rusty sounding L-Pad. I am assuming that it's just a large version of a standard pot, so I can open up the pot it's self to clean the inside of it. I'd rather not be told just to ditch it and get something better... If the worst comes to the worst I shall just bypass the crossover and not bother with the tweeter, which would be a shame. Thanks for reading and for any help you can offer.[/quote] Those pots are sometimes a little different to normal pots, as they may have to dissipate a 1 or 2 watts (normal pots are rated at 0.125 or 0.25 watts). As a result they might look like a tight bunch of coiled resistive wire with a slider that moves over them as the pot rotates. However, they should clean up as well as any normal pot, some Caig Deoxit and a wire brush should do the trick here. There's also the chance that they'll just look like normal potentiometers inside but bigger, I suppose it will depend on the age of the cab, I'm not familiar with this one. Should be a fairly straightforward task however, and if there's no damage to the tracks inside then I can't imagine you'd need to buy new ones, current ones should be fine once cleaned.

[quote name='oldslapper' post='1293666' date='Jul 5 2011, 05:54 PM']What other bass players choose to play is no one else's business but their own. Don't get why there's so much venom aimed at other players.....get on with your own playing instead of aiming the spud guns at others, they don't care what you think.[/quote] my thoughts exactly.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1293586' date='Jul 5 2011, 04:47 PM']It would be useful for all of us to know what other brands are worth considering.[/quote] Alps, Alpha, Bourns, Omeg -- probably more those are just what come to mind.

I'm not really sure a lesson is cab design is really very helpful right now. Also, loudspeakers are a lot more forgiving than some 'experts' here seem to think -- it is possible to replace a driver without opening WinISD or having a degree in acoustics, you know. Sid, if I were you I would give Ashdown's technical service a call on 01621 856010, they will be able to tell you if indeed it is the drivers, and I'm sure they'd be willing to sell you two exact replacements too, if need be. Just out of curiosity, have you tried the cab with any other amp, and does it do the same thing (crackling when you turn it up)? I only ask because there is the possibility it is your amp that needs servicing and not your cab, and it would be a shame to replace the drivers if you don't need to.

£750 for two 410's and a BH500 head?!? almost makes me wish i was in the market for a second rig lol.

[quote name='mart' post='1292324' date='Jul 4 2011, 03:49 PM']At the moment I'm having to play guitar as much as bass and, as a result, my practice set-ups at home are a mix of bass and guitar kit. For my guitar I've been running my tiny Blackstar HT1 head into a bass cab. Into a 15" cab it sounds great, both for clean sounds and for distorted. But the other day I switched it to run into my 10" Genz-Benz cab, thinking a 10" might be better for a guitar than a 15". The clean sounds are still fine, but the distorted sounds are now crap - they have that fizzy sound that I associate with cheap small tranny combos. This isn't a big problem, because I can easily switch back to the 15. But I'm just curious: why does the GB cab sound so bad for distorted guitar? I always assumed that fizz was due to a lack of bottom, but the GB has plenty of bottom at the sort of volumes I'm working at. (The HT1 is only 1 watt!) So what's going on?[/quote] Did you try turning the tweeter off on the cab? If that doesn't help, it might be that guitar cabs tend to be voiced very differently than bass ones, but they rely on this voicing to get a good sound. Could be the 10" cab is too neutral.

[quote name='Ben Jamin' post='1290679' date='Jul 3 2011, 01:06 AM']Those 12/other silly number of strings basses! Why? The fingerboards are as wide and playable as my desk and they sound horrible on the ridiculously low/high strings. If you want that kind of range play piano! Compensating for something? [/quote] am i counting that right, 15 strings? at what point does it stop being a bass and start being a harp?

[quote name='Pow_22' post='1290735' date='Jul 3 2011, 08:03 AM']Gonna have to book mine into a techs. It has developed a load of intermittant crackling. Sounds like when you turn a switch that needs cleaning but the crackling is all the time (even when you dont turn a knob).[/quote] Sounds to me like it's probably just a dirty valve socket, or perhaps a valve on its way out. Should be an easy fix.

[quote name='chrismuzz' post='1158905' date='Mar 12 2011, 05:31 AM']For multi effects? I use the Johnny Shred Freak, you can get thatm a mains cable, and a daisy chain for under £30 and i've had no issues with noise yet [/quote] been using one for three years now, always been flawless and dead quiet. works worldwide too, provided you have the right mains cable.