escholl

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' post='1285174' date='Jun 28 2011, 12:29 PM']Hi Oscar, how was it moddified? From your description i got the feeling that you're interrupting the signal going from the power amp to the speaker and sending it to a DI... this isn't healthy to your amp! Another way to take the signal safely from the amp and retaining the amps EQ is to take it out of the headphones socket (some mod is needed to work out the problem of muting the speaker when conncting the jack to the socket) and probably add a boost pedal to this exit if needed...[/quote] Actually it's fine for the amp if done correctly, although generally this signal is taken before the power amp stage. Incidentally, in this particular amp, the headphone output is also taken off of the power stage so taking the DI off of the headphone out wouldn't change anything. [quote name='Oscar South' post='1289192' date='Jul 1 2011, 03:52 PM']I'm probably not knowledgeable enough about amp circuitry to to pull that off, I think that this is over my head so I've put out a feeler looking for people who can have a look at it around Chester. Hopefully it can be fixed, just a really bad time for it to break when I've got a really big couple of gigs coming up, no money and have to move house in a month too! Typical luck, ha [/quote] You can do a quick test of a few basic things here if you like. First, measure the voltage across Z1 and Z2, there should be 15 volts across each. If there are, then you can try making an audio probe (very easy to do) and testing for signal across R20 -- that will tell you if it's the pre-amp or something after.

[quote name='dc2009' post='1288474' date='Jul 1 2011, 12:56 AM']I have a Programmable BDDI and I'd never look back. The deluxe version with dual input seems nice, but is beyond my needs not being a pro musician. I will now never go anywhere bass related without my sansamp, it is the sh1t! I wouldn't bother with the non-programmable version, but reckon that 3 presets are more than enough for any one live setting, and if you really need more in the studio, use outboards or take the time to change.[/quote] I've got the same, and it really is fantastic. Not only does it let me carry around a excellent DI and preamp wherever I go (with three different sounds!), and given their popularity many sound-people at gigs or in the studio will already be familiar with it and know exactly what they need to do on their end. Also, it's completely bombproof -- very very durable. Great kit. Not used the VT Bass though (yet) so can't compare.

[quote name='OreotheBassist' post='1288139' date='Jun 30 2011, 07:55 PM']Has anyone heard of these amps before, I can barely find any information on them and I was just wondering if they are any good because I found one on ebay for £40 and was thinking of getting it but just wanted a good review on them. The amp head I found is a HH ELECTRONIC BASSAMP 100, any information on this amp would be greatly appreciated .[/quote] Yes, I love them! I've got two HH heads and two of their 1x15 cabs, great stuff, very reliable and bombproof. Bear in mind it is going to give you a more vintage tone, warmer and rounder than some of the more modern ultra-clean amps. £40 is a great price, I'd say go for it! If it needs any parts replaced/restored, [url="http://www.majelectronic.co.uk/"]these[/url] are the people to speak to.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='1288568' date='Jul 1 2011, 08:17 AM']There are a lot of Americans.[/quote] oi, not all of us are [i]that[/i] bad!

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='1287432' date='Jun 30 2011, 10:44 AM']Isn't the idea that you [b]can't[/b] really hear it? It's getting rid of the rumble you can't hear in the first place, so your speakers can work more efficiently, no?[/quote] yes, that's pretty much correct. how much it helps though depends on if the amp already has a built in high-pass filter (many do) and the quality of that filter, so it may make a bigger difference in some situations than others. still, it wouldn't ever hurt, i shouldn't think.

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1287537' date='Jun 30 2011, 12:13 PM']May have a go at this. See if I can get it to run at least. Thanks for your help Escholl, I think it's about 4th or 5th on the "Projects to try and finish" list. Which keeps re-ordering itself. [/quote] haha, i know the feeling! well, good luck, if you run into any issues whenever you get round to it just post back here and I (or someone, I'm sure) will try to help you through it

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1287516' date='Jun 30 2011, 11:54 AM']Shaft has snapped off from the front. It is a pretty metal circle in the face of the amp now. Few of them have done this.[/quote] using some pliers or other small tool, you should be able to adjust them at least to where you want, and then just leave them. unless it was the gain or volume ones which broke? these can be fixed easily too but if you want to be able to adjust them, you'll need a new pot. it's totally up to you though.

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1287458' date='Jun 30 2011, 11:12 AM']It's beyond that, several of them have actually snapped off, it got loaned to a punk band for a while by it's last owner, they did not take care of it. He gave it to me as it took up space in his house, now it takes up space in mine. Thought it would be a handy home practice rig.[/quote] snapped off? as in, the pot shaft is broken, or the pot has come off the board? if it's the latter, you can hold the pot at mid value (or any other value you like) by placing two resistors where it was, forming a voltage divider. i can help you with that if you like. to be honest, I don't see any major difficulties in turning this into just a little home rig if you want to, better than letting it go to waste.

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='1287438' date='Jun 30 2011, 10:52 AM']Shame, most of the pots are knackered and crackly, and have to be in one position to even get a sound out of it.[/quote] [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380180866806"]Caig Deoxit[/url] will sort you out. Kind of expensive but very worth it. Slightly cheaper, I think Servisol does something as well. Very easy to use. Barring that, just turn the pots back and forth vigorously for a minute or two -- can sometimes be a cheap fix to making them work correctly again.

[quote name='bumnote' post='1286952' date='Jun 29 2011, 08:57 PM']Ive enjoyed reading this. Ive used dashboard shine before but there is silicon or some such in it and it makes the surface slippery. I did read on one of the us forums that wd 40 was good for cleaning up covering all though I have never tried it[/quote] does it not leave an oil residue behind?

icastle is correct, trying to modify it as such is probably more trouble than it's worth. The amp itself should just slide out of the combo all on one chassis, which would then be simple to re-house in something else, another combo or even just as a head -- this is probably why I would do.

Bought an HH amp head off of Derek just last week, a real pleasure to deal with. Friendly, good communication, does what he says and the item was very well packaged. A top bloke and one I would definitely deal with again, cheers mate!

[quote name='Monckyman' post='1285968' date='Jun 29 2011, 01:17 AM']So long as the loop is post eq on the amp, you`ll be compressing the tone as you wish.[/quote] I don't really know TE amps, but if this one is similar to other AH series amps then I think the effects send will be pre-eq -- probably better to use the DI in 'post' mode here.

[quote name='3below' post='1285524' date='Jun 28 2011, 06:41 PM']Looking at the DIY can capacitor, I wonder if you could fit them inside 35mm plastic piping. If so you could glue a pipe end cap on and have a low cost tidy can capacitor. Might work, might not.[/quote] i was trying to think of a suggestion last night but nothing good came to mind, I think yours is actually quite a good idea if he's up for it. or possibly heat shrink could work too, if anywhere sells one big enough to cover all of them at once.

strain relief. so the cable doesn't kink and damage the insides if it's pulled sideways. although those don't look too amazing, and to be honest a good heatshrink usually works just as well.

How is recommending that the OP buy cables instead in any way helpful? Anyway, the places I'd recommend are either Rapid Online (previously mentioned) or Thomann. Rapid are good, but they only sell cable by the 100m reel and don't have a great selection of plugs, whereas Thomann will sell cable per metre and have a better selection. I'm sure there are other places two, those are just the first two that come to mind. Personally, I've found the combination of Cordial cable and Rean connectors to be cheap and very reliable. However, pretty much any instrument cable in the quid-per-metre price range will be fine (basically, just make sure it's not super cheap) and Neutrik, Rean, or Switchcraft connectors are all good. Neutrik AG actually owns Rean, and although Rean connectors are just as good they do tend to be cheaper than their Neutrik equivalents.

[quote name='dumelow' post='1283571' date='Jun 27 2011, 12:33 AM']ive only heard one of the albums, and the youtube videos of that set. [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Every_Direction_Is_North"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Every_Direction_Is_North[/url] fantastic album, i cant comment on the rest though[/quote] their other album is really good too.

I've got two HH heads, in fact I'm in the middle of restoring a VS Bass. It's not worth 450 -- but they should be, sound fantastic and are indestructible. Wish mine was in as good condition at that too, other than the knobs that one looks near perfect. IMO anyway. I know most people hate them -- your loss!

[quote name='BasH' post='1282424' date='Jun 25 2011, 08:16 PM']Sure... [url="http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/eej.4390930502/abstract"]A study of irreversible demagnetization at low temperatures[/url][/quote] do you have access to the rest of that article? given that the abstract doesn't give the conclusions. the reason I doubt this so much is simply that every time you use a cab at high volume for an extended period of time, the voice coil and thus surrounding magnets will heat up quite significantly -- yet I have never once, ever, heard of a bass cab (or any moving-coil driver full stop) which stopped working due loss of magnetism and thus sufficient flux.

[quote name='Monckyman' post='1282227' date='Jun 25 2011, 04:03 PM']Yep, can`t argue with that. I just wanted a possible cheap way of preventing frequency overlap when using the 15" as an add on. Seemed to me a LPF would allow that, and not be permanent or expensive. I`ll go and have a good think. Ta MM[/quote] If you LPF one cab, you are going to further change the phase relationship between the cabs, which may be helpful or not but will be difficult to predict. I really think you should just use the EQ -- it's what it's there for. Or get a different cab, or something -- I'm really not convinced this is the solution. However, I've been wrong before so if you get it working do please let us know By the way, does this happen in a variety of rooms, even very large ones? I only ask because 160-400 Hz are very common small to medium sized room resonances -- if you've only tried it in small rooms, it may not be the cabs at all.

[quote name='gafbass02' post='1281950' date='Jun 25 2011, 10:55 AM']I do have one that just nails it (imo) but ironically it's a wizard prototype. Only a few exist as Andy was unable to make it fit neatly enough into the casing. (Fixed mine by expanding the holes with scissors) It's called the gaffer and really is amazing. I used it on this recording (not the video, we mimed) [url="http://m.youtube.com/?client=mv-google&rdm=4n18m1gml#/watch?v=FnThxCeCJfg"]LAP IT UP[/url] Wether he's ready to knock up another I don't know, but it's truly the nuts!![/quote] just fixing your video for you. nice bass sound by the way.

yea, but actually using that entire board whilst playing guitar and bass at the same time, pretty impressive. cheers for posting this by the way, am liking this band.

[quote name='Charla' post='1281410' date='Jun 24 2011, 07:43 PM']How do I describe sound, let me see? I would sat that I like my sound to be clean most of the time, but I do use the `grind' knob, which doesn't really add what I'd call distortion, but a warmth. I don't know if the valve is failing, it may just be me, but I thing I'm having to use more gain these days. Mind the Amp wasn't used for a long while whilst I had my EBS td650. Now I either use the Ashdown or Eden. Cheers Charla[/quote] well, you could always check to see what's in there, and try for an exact replacement maybe? if you liked the tone before... I've not got experience with a wide variety of makes, but I've had some JJ's in a few things and always liked them (assuming you are talking about ECC83's here). Never really distorted them but clean they always sounded really nice to me.

[quote name='BasH' post='1281074' date='Jun 24 2011, 02:53 PM']That's what I always assumed as well. But apparently prolonged exposure to changing temperatures might induce permanent change/damage as well (so leaving it in your car for a few days wouldn't be a problem, but several years would). But I think it might be more damaging to the plywood and tolex than the magnets...[/quote] plywood and tolex will be fine, provided they don't get wet. as to your other claim, source? cars have a multitude of magnets in them, not the least of which are in the stereo system (as pointed out by many others here). [quote]True, but most of these things don't even last a few years if you treat hem properly [/quote] Right, but if even the more delicate electronics aren't damaged, cabs will definitely not be damaged.

[quote name='Monckyman' post='1281231' date='Jun 24 2011, 04:53 PM']I can roll this off the amp and it sounds flatter, but I don`t like having to use valuable eq on the amp to correct a flaw in my choice of cabinet.[/quote] er, what? that's what EQ is there for... valuable, maybe, but not worth anything if it's not being used!