dave_bass5

[quote name='Commando Jack' post='840993' date='May 18 2010, 03:41 PM']The way outlined above doesn't send your bass through the computer at all, which is probably best considering decent audio interfaces with low enough latency can be expensive.[/quote] Hmmm, i get 2ms latency (and direct, no latency monitoring) with my M-audio 2496 card. Not a top of the range card but decent audio and it cost about £60.

[quote name='algmusic' post='840953' date='May 18 2010, 03:07 PM']I think, since I've always used my sansamp into the desk the PA guys are happier with it than just a DI box as long as I don't drive the bass eq too much and I get a bit of my sounde mix. I'll have a look as the gain as it might be a bit low. I've changed the I use alot less eq on the MB as my new cab doesn't need it. I'll give options a try and let you know on thrusday. I guess I'm trying to carry less gear, but not lose tone for myself and the mix to the front of house Thanks Adrian[/quote] Good luck with it. If you do use the XLR out you might want to change a jumper inside that gives yo ua pre EQ signal. This would then allow you to fiddle with the EQ on stage without affecting the signal going to the desk. Unless you have a pre/post EQ switch the amp comes set up to send the EQ'ed signal to the XLR. Although i always just use the XLR out from my MB heads i think if you are used to sending a sansamp tone to the deck you might be better sticking with that anyway. Otherwise it will be quite a flat tone if using the pre EQ out on the amp.

[quote name='algmusic' post='839954' date='May 17 2010, 05:38 PM']Hey guys, I thought, I'd actually join as I read everyone comments here all the time. and it's been really helpful. I've noticed that the ouput DI out of the back of my littlemark head seems to be very low. I usually come straight out of my sansamp and use my amp just for my own monitoring, but I like my new cab without the sansamp sometimes. I'm thinking maybe I might need to drive my gain some more, but the sound guy mentioned it was quite low.. good job I had my sansamp still eh... Has anyone noticed this with there's? [/quote] How is your input gain set? If this is too low i would expect the level going out of the DI to be low as well. You might need ot turn it up a bit. Get it to where the blue light just flashes on and then back it off a bit. This should give you the optimum signal level. You could also try using the tuner or send out. I believe these give a different signal level to the XLR. The XLR is the only way to get the EQ'ed sound out but a lot of sound guys dont like that anyway. For what its worth i always use a XLR to jack in to the line in on our desk. I find i get a better signal than using the mic (XLR) in.

[quote name='davidmpires' post='840910' date='May 18 2010, 02:34 PM']I don't have a soundcard with 1/4 jacks that makes it a problem[/quote] Then get a 1/4" to 3.5mm adaptor ;-) or a USB interface like the M-audio Fastrack USB interface. Come to think of it, doesn't your H4 act like a USB interface?

[quote name='davidmpires' post='840771' date='May 18 2010, 12:51 PM']Now up until now I put the songs on my pc and have to use two headphones to hear the bass on one coming from the amp and another one coming from my pc with the song I’m learning. Now I want to be able to use just one, what’s the best way to do it? And cheaper way. I want to be able to mix my bass with my pc so I only need one set of headphones and stop disturbing my OH with the sound of the amp. Any suggestions? Cheers David[/quote] Something like guitar rig would do. plug your bass in to your PC, run GR for your bass tone and you can play along to anything using any other software.

[quote name='Hutton' post='840757' date='May 18 2010, 12:39 PM']Surely people pay different prices for Precsions, Jazzes, Rays, etc etc. Who knows what a bass is worth? There are so many factors involved. Is there a right price?[/quote] I would have said the Subs were pretty much standardised. I know there were passive versions and 5 string versions but im pretty sure if you have two active 4 sting subs they should be worth the same amount (excluding any damage that might effect the value). People pay different prices for P's and jazz's due to them being different. Made in USA, MIM, CAJ, vintage, Squire etc. I do take your point about whats the correct price but i would say you base it on what he majority of sellers are asking for a particular bass. £300 - £400 seems about right to me.

[quote name='Hutton' post='840722' date='May 18 2010, 12:15 PM']As I said before it's all subjective. 'One man's meat is another man's poison'. C[/quote] True but if one man pays £300 for his meat and another pays £500 for his, isnt there something wrong there? which price is right?

[quote name='Musicman20' post='840635' date='May 18 2010, 11:06 AM']I have noticed hearing Chromes that they are a mid ground between rounds and flats....a little more sparkle and grind compared to total flats. At first I HATED the idea of flats. Now I totally love em![/quote] Yeah, thats why i like Chromes. Closest ive come to rounds but with a nice flat thump.

Cheers Guys. I've actually got a set now but im in two minds about them. I put them on the Ray and felt they gave it a nice, deep thuddy tone. But at the gig we all hated them and i took them off and went back to my olsd XLs. Much nicer tone. Last weekend i put them back on again and they sounded much better at this gig, it must have been the venue i guess. Im not sure ill stick with them though. As ive said, i've used flats many time before, but these seem to be different. Maybe they are closer to how flats should sound but i do prefer a brighter tone, thats why ive stuck to Chromes in the past. I would like to try some Chromes on this bass as well at some point. I guess ill see how it goes.

[quote name='Fiorenza2' post='840317' date='May 17 2010, 10:33 PM']I recently made the change over to flatwounds, specifically Chromes, after suggestions from forum members, and have been enjoying the focussed tone, and smooth feel they bring, etc. However, what I appreciate the most is the incredible life span they have; I've had my current set on for roughly 6 months, and they sound as good as new. Despite this, I'm getting a new bass soon (probably a Geddy Lee Jazz), and I'd like something to contrast with the classic P-bass + Flats thump, so I'm going to be stringing up the new bass with rounds. Basically, what I'm wondering is if there are any roundwounds out there that will give me the same long lasting tone that flats do, mainly because I'm skint, and I hate having to change strings regularly. I've been looking specifically at DRs (Hi-Beams and Black Beauties) as well as Stadium Elites, which seem to be touted as being fairly long lasting. Any help would be appreciated! Phil[/quote] This sounds like something i go through every so many months. I love Chromes but i also like rounds and after a few months (sometimes more, sometimes less) i always seem to go back to rounds. I miss the overtones etc you get with rounds. But i hate having to buy strings so after a while i might go bake to Chromes etc etc. Never ending cycle. I would suggest Elixirs. These are coated strings and do seem to keep their new sound for months. They are bright sounding strings, not sure if thats good or bad but ive recently gone off them. If you want to try some im sure i have a set at home you can have, for free of course. I threw a load of old string sets out at the weekend, i might have thrown them as well but as they are a 5 string set, maybe i didn't. Im pretty sure i last had them on my Duck Dunn (i know, its not 5 string) so they are cut for a Fender type bass so they should fit. PM me if you want them.

[quote name='Ruck' post='840158' date='May 17 2010, 08:37 PM']I know what you mean! the build quality is somewhat lacking considering Epifani's background and supposed cabinet building ethics! The drivers are a loose fit (quite a gap!) and one of the screw pockets for the drivers are almost hanging out of the wood (not from clumsy removal of the driver but thats how it was initially inserted into the plywood!) I know mine was bought second hand but wow what a bad example... my warwick combo is getting on for about 10 years now ive owned it for 7 and Ive never had one single fault or failure (now for sale by the way lol!). Well PM me the buyers name if your not fussed and we might find out lol Cheers[/quote] I was at a gig when my UL212 started making a funny noise. when i tried to take the handles off i found most of the screws would just pull out. I think there were only about three per side that were actually tight in the hole. Ill go through my PMs and see if i can find the buyer. Im pretty sure he sold it on though.

[quote name='johnzgerman' post='839736' date='May 17 2010, 01:18 PM']wow thats expensive for a SUB, especially if its a 4 string.[/quote] This was my original argument against Subs, or their owners at least.

I once had a UL112 that would buzz if i played a certain way. It seemed to do it more on notes that had a low freq to them (mainly 5th fret and lower on the E string) and was really only noticeable if i held the note. It didnt matter how loud i played, it was a freq thing. I took it back the day i got it and exchanged it for a UL115 and that worked perfectly fine. I also had a UL212 a few years ago and that developed a similar fault. And mine was brand new. What a nightmare that was. Ive written about it before so wont go in to it here, other than to say i ended up having to change both drivers over (dont ask, one was fine) but after taking the cab apart i doubt i would by another Epifani cab again if the build quality was anything to go by. I sold it on here a couple of years ago. I wonder if its the same cab lol. And funny enough, my 1212L, the cab that replaced the UL212, also developed a fault, within a few weeks (maybe its me) but was very quickly sorted out. There was a very small area of the dust cap that had come loose from the cone. You really couldn't see it unless you pushed down on the cone. It took me a whiel to trakc it down. This would get louder the harder i played throughout so i knew it was a faulty driver. At least i learnt a lot by fixing the UL121. Although i got the driver replaced i still have the original one and, like Phil, i also fixed it with some copydex. Ive not used it though, its just a spare.

[quote name='JTUK' post='839695' date='May 17 2010, 12:39 PM']The G&L is the ugly but more verstaile one. I'd want to get away from humbuckers on every sound, if it were me. MM is a classic...but as someone else said...you have to love that sound all the time. If it were me and between only those two..then the MM[/quote] Agree on all points.

[quote name='noelk27' post='839358' date='May 16 2010, 10:54 PM'][url="http://www.hibikimusic.co.jp/"]http://www.hibikimusic.co.jp/[/url][/quote] cheers for that.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='838838' date='May 16 2010, 01:33 PM']I did [url="http://www.bassesbyleo.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=112"]this[/url] mod on Neepheid's L2K Trib for him and it opened up even more possibilities.[/quote] That mod looks really good but for me the L2000/2500 has enough options, i'll only get even more confused.

[quote name='noelk27' post='839173' date='May 16 2010, 07:58 PM']The Tribute range is quite limited. There's an alternative, the Japanese built Premium range. For a Premium L2000, in addition to fretted or fretless, it's possible to specify nut width (two options) and radius (two options). In terms of list price, Japanese Premium models are roughly halfway between Tribute and US G&L prices. In terms of quality, Japanese Premium models are above US G&L models and way above Tribute models.[/quote] This sounds interesting. Do you have any links to where these can be ordered form? Cheers.

[quote name='Jamesemt' post='838883' date='May 16 2010, 02:39 PM']Speaking of necks - do any of the Tributes ever come with a Jazz neck? I just can't get on with any other nut width.[/quote] Funny you should mention that, as one of the reasons im thinking about a L2500 is because the string spacing is narrower than the 4 string. I think the L2000 is too wide for me as well. Ive always got on better with 5 strings and Jazz necks as i find them easier to play. Im now getting used to my Ray's wider neck but would love something in between a Jazz and a P.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='838789' date='May 16 2010, 12:37 PM']What you need is one of [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=86953"]these[/url] then. :brow: (+ an extra string) I'm no expert by any means on G&L's but I have played both Korean & USA models both are fantastic - only played 2 pup versions I think - HH, JJ etc. You can't equate USA vs Korean as simply as a 'ray vs SUB situation because of the variety of tones you can get. But unlike 'rays the G&L's don't have a signature tone just a fantastic all round delivery. Considering the price of second hand G&L 2500's you can't go wrong - you might not get exactly what you envisage but what you get won't disappoint. You can pick up a L2000 Trib for £300-350. They are completely out of OLP's league in every respect.[/quote] Ive seen your bass and other than the colour i think its a fantastic bass. And you did a really good job on it. Way, way, beyond anything i could do. I dont really feel a USA G&L is on the cards for me, as you say, the Tributes are so cheap its not really a big gamble. Im very tempted to buy the Blueburst L2500 trib on here but i expect it will go before i make a decision. I like my Ray, i like P's and even Jazz basses so if the L2500 can get close to all of them, with a mixture of each if needed i would be happy. Im not looking to replace any of the above, and i wouldn't expect the L2500 to get the exact tones of any of them. Im still looking for "my" tone but so far the Ray has got the closest, but im missing some elements of the others. One thing that has put me off is that some people have said its quite an aggressive tone. I really dont want that although im guessing it can be dialled out.

Cool thread as i was going to ask the same. I keep looking at the G&L's and wondering if its worth the outlay just to find out if i like them or not. Im tempted to get a SR5 but the G&L 2500 is so much cheaper, and i might get some of my P tone back (not that im looking for a perfect P tone, just a bit closer than my Ray gets).

[quote name='sockdeluxe_mikey' post='838119' date='May 15 2010, 01:33 PM']If you mean where the rosewood fretboard carries on past the nut, then that's actually what Lakland normally do with rosewood fretboards. My 44-01's fretboard does this and as far as I know, other basses like the Joe Osborn does too. I actually prefer the new shape including the new headstock![/quote] Yeah, your right. I was just typing from memory BUT look at where the paint starts on the New Bass, its much earlier than the old one. On the lakland's the paint starts at the end of the neck, at the point where the headstock starts. I guess it could be just that its a mock up i guess.

I voted Black because i love the look of black body, black PG and blocks. This was my old DJ5 Saying that, i do like White as well.

[quote name='faceman' post='837847' date='May 15 2010, 02:17 AM']Despite starting to feel some SUB love, I've put for sale. I've decided to make the jump to a Musicman Stingray and have a potential deal on the go. If you are interested, PM me![/quote] Nice one. I've seen a few SR4's i fancy, especially the black and maple ones but i feel they are too similar to what i have already. Saying that, if i saw a 2EQ Black and maple for a good price i might bit the bullet. I feel like im definitely a MM convert now and want to stick with them........at least for this week ;-)

[quote name='luckman67' post='837565' date='May 14 2010, 07:54 PM']I would buy another SUB,have any of you who has one resprayed it or had the body contours put in.[/quote] Two reasons i got my Ray34. Just saying. I just prefer this type of bass.