Al Krow

Be really interested in getting your thoughts on how the M900 stacks up against the MB Fusion when you've had a chance to put it through its paces.

It's such a shame they have discontinued the Terror 1000W at 4ohms; the current range is more "slightly scary" at half the power output than unbridled terror.

The fact that every time you turn around it tells you what note you're playing in glowing LED in real time. What if the audience spots you're playing the wrong note? 😄

I'm possibly thinking about getting another D class at some point soon. Be very interested to hear what else you have had and why you feel the AG700 trumps them? I'm sure the OP will be interested too! Same query for you @MacDaddywith your TecAmp

Not really a patch idea as such! But managed to find a board that was "made" for the B1X-4 / B1-4 and is bargain basement to boot: the HB 50M. What I would say is avoid the unnecessarily cavernous hard case that it is paired with! Here's what I'm thinking of having on my micro board to show you what a good size it is for the Zoom multi:

Do you know what, that actually could look really good!

Am I right in thinking that the 415 and 425 share the same pups? If that's the case they're already Tyson Fury punch capable and combine with a East preamp and you're right, that's going to be one helluva beast and he's already replaced the tuners with lighter weight ones. Kentish Town N London if anyone's interested in checking it out.

For anything other than the older production runs before he changed the sensitivity. Remind him of his conversation with me last summer!

Your SH shouldn't be noisy with a decent isolated PSU. The Ciocks is top notch. There is an issue with greater noise with some of the early SH production units (see my post in Aug 2019 on the SH thread), which has been dealt with on later units. Chris kindly took mine in and sorted the issue. He offered to do it for free, but given I had bought second hand and it was long out of warranty I felt not paying him something for his time and materials would have been taking the proverbial, so I got him to agree a fair repair / upgrade price. All sorted and working fine now.

So essentially an "octave up" bass, and made to sound like a normal bass by use of a decent octave down pedal. That could work. Obviously, I would want a 5 string version to provide a thumb rest 😁

Can't disagree with you on that (see my first post in this thread 😉)

But the fret spacing at the dusty end is very different to the normal low end on a bass, so in terms of muscle memory not so good.

Soz - I was referring to the equivalent X-over range on the cheapo 50 pence Zoom effect, which goes from a less useful low of 300hz and then up to 1.5kHz Would you set the X-over at the top end of the freq range for the reasons set out in my post? [EDIT - I see you've now kindly covered this in your edit!]

PS there is a BB 2004 in the FS on for almost half that price and looks to be in mint condition.

On at £1,200. Suspect will take a decent offer.

Nah - happy with my 1025. Just thought it might have been some weird exotic early model. But it's essentially a prototype 735A by a Trav protege who probably went on to quietly invent the BB Musicman bass...

£219

I'm guessing an OBP-3 given 18V. But just a guess! Bet that didn't hang about too long then!

Any idea what this model is, Andy? Has the 425 bridge, really unusual set of stacked knobs and 2 x 9V batteries. Also fs on eBay. I'm intrigued...

And this one has come up for sale on eBay within 2 miles from me! No bass books but a Hiscox case included in the relatively "full" asking price. It's one of those hardly ever seen Yamaha BB2005 models, described by the seller as "mint" although looking a little scuffed from the pics. But at 2/3 price of a typical NE2 maybe worth checking out.

BB 1025 tone settings: 1. PJ - full volume and 8 to 10 tone = main default 2. P solo or PJ - both at full volume, tone dialled right back = Motown 3. J solo - full volume and 8 to10 tone = cut through on the low B string (e.g. Uptown Funk)

Si - not sure how effective this is as a dual band comp in terms of targeting just the lows and the highs? Seems to me that the X-over delineates where the two comps kick in, but you can't centre the comps at particular frequencies? I guess if you are mildly boosting the bass, cutting the mids and dialling up the treble for a "typical" slap EQ, then you'd be going for a mild compression for bass / mids and more of a limiter approach with the treble to even out the 'pops' and looking to set the X-over at the top end of the mid range around (say) 1.5 kHz.

A question for you BC'ers with either Bugera model to help those of us dithering and delaying, like Adonis proteges on steroids, get off the fence about getting one of these. Have any of you felt that this has not hit the mark in terms of what you are after from an amp? Please put aside that they are ridiculously good value, which no one can seriously doubt, the question is much more about if you could choose between this and something costing 2 to 3 times more (e.g. a Markbass head or a Genzler M800) and you weren't being primarily driven by the price, would you still stick with your Bugera?

Out of interest which model Bugera have you got?

Not even close. Must try harder if you're gonna fail. (see post #6)