rjb

They're the right notes, [i]not necessarily[/i] in the right order.

I'm sure everyone has met someone like this:- + All the gear. - No idea. ^_^

[quote name='Cantdosleepy' post='298603' date='Oct 3 2008, 02:33 PM']Adrenochrome is the only person so far to have put 'don't slap' in the correct column. Come on bass players, try harder![/quote] Hehe, was thinking along similar lines when I did mine. Still, getting the right technique can't hurt. You don't [i]have[/i] to use it!

+ Fingerstyle technique is pretty good and mobile (floating thumb), though I lost the ability to do triplets after breaking my hand. Good with timing, odd meters seem to cause me little trouble. Pretty fast at learning by ear. Good at percussive/groove oriented stuff (but not great at slap). - Slap technique really, really, really needs work (not that I'd use it much). Very little theory. Unable to read music. Not as melodic as I would like to be. Cheers-

[quote name='Gamble' post='298464' date='Oct 3 2008, 11:36 AM']Is it me, or is the NT a smaller body than the BO? Interesting.....[/quote] Yup! The horns are shorter to allow for the neck pocket. The NT is still heavier though.

Here's my two Thumbs. Guess that makes me some kind of masochist. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=13374"]Pic here.[/url] (P.S. Is there any way to properly re-use attached images? They're in my control panel but I can't get at them with the "img" or "attachment" tags.)

Obviously Holger Czukay from Can deserves a mention. Indeed, it was Can that provided much of the initial influence to Punk/Post Punk. Bill Laswell also made great contributions in this area - his bass playing and production on "Rise" by PiL is one brilliant example. Probably doesn't fit too well into the "Post Punk" sphere, but I always thought that Andy Rouke of The Smiths was a bloody good player, too.

Great buy. These are good basses. Easy to play too. ^_^ Action aside, the string tension may be down to the strings and not the bass (assuming you didn't change them).

Hi there, I'm sure some of you have heard of [url="http://www.birdsongguitars.com/"]Birdsong Guitars[/url], so I thought I'd drop a little thread about a thumbrest I had made. Here it is. It's based on a design used on their Cortobass. [attachment=14269:thumbrestwide.jpg] [attachment=14268:thumbrestsmall.jpg] Looks great on my Streamer Std, which I've set up with flats to get an upright-type sound. That is all!

[quote name='phil_the_bassist' post='295410' date='Sep 30 2008, 02:07 PM']Every one previously was a freakin nightmare, intonation's out and actions been higher than a really high thing on stilts...but if that gets sorted then they're a very nice bit of kit [/quote] Really? Never seen a particularly bad setup on a Warwick in a shop myself. Fenders on the other hand...

I have three of the buggers and think they're great. I don't buy into the idea of a drop in quality. Both my Thumbs are beautifully built and they we made in 2004 and 2005. I reckon the main issue is a change in fashion towards traditionally shaped guitars, especailly for younger indie-type bands who are most concerned with their look. It'll come around again, no doubt. In areas like RnB, Metal and Jazz Warwicks are still popular. Having said that I think that Warwick would do well to make more traditional designs like the [url="http://www.warwickbass.com/basses/Star%20Bass%20II.html"]Starbass[/url]. Too many of their newer models (Vampyre, Dark Lord) are far too geared towards metal players. I find them very cheesy. A mid-level priced Starbass might ease them nicely into the indie market...

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='293448' date='Sep 27 2008, 02:45 PM']I know wood can change shape depending on the temperature and humidity so I’d guess that this was just all it was, but just to be sure I’ll be keeping a close eye on it for the next couple of weeks.[/quote] Yeah it could have been a number of things. Glad to hear that all it well after the re-finish.

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='292107' date='Sep 25 2008, 07:05 PM']Ok, here’s the finished refinish; [attachment=13956:sfinish1.JPG] The pic doesn’t look that great but rubbing off the wax and using the damp cloth and towel technique then refinishing it made the world of difference to it and in the flesh it looks great. Here’s a pic of the scratch…I’ve circled the area where is was just incase you cant make it out ; [attachment=13957:sfinish2.JPG] Overall I’m really happy with how it’s turned out, and I think in all it took me around 3 to 4 hours of work but it’s been worth it and an experience. Still not quite sure what to do about the neck situation though…[/quote] Great job, came out well. That's the beauty of natural finishes - they do wear out, but they can easily be refreshed... ^_^ As for the neck - get a guitar shop to look at it. It should be possible to either level off the fretboard and refret or steam and re-set the neck. The latter is a pretty major job, though. Most likely the former will do the trick.

[quote name='budget bassist' post='291806' date='Sep 25 2008, 02:36 PM']Does anybody know if this steaming lark will get some dents/scratches out of my tobias? Only i'm not sure what finish it has, i think it's oiled? I'm pretty sure it's not laquered because the finish is uber thin (you can't REALLY see it) and it's not glossy or anything.[/quote] Not familiar with Tobias, but it should work. Best check on how to re-finish though.

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='291157' date='Sep 24 2008, 07:00 PM']Cheers for the advice guys. Steaming the dents out worked really well and the scratches by the knobs are almost completely unnoticeable now. I’ve given it quite a thick layer of the melted wax that I’m going to leave on over night so I’ll buff it up tomorrow and then put everything back together. As for the neck…:wacko: I’ll have to see what happens when I give it another setup…I don't have money for a luthier [/quote] The going rate is usually around £100 quid.

[quote name='Dodge' post='290956' date='Sep 24 2008, 03:53 PM']I wouldn't even bother with removing existing wax at this point - get straight into the steaming out of the dents, once you're happy with it give it a good clean and re-wax. Be gentle with the scotchbrite pad / wire wool, but any faint marks will be invisible after waxing anyway. I hate to say it, but that next doesn't look right at all - I hope it's an optical illusion. Neck issues are the single reason I no longer own Warwick basses.[/quote] A luthier should be able to level it off without too much trouble. These things happen, even on wenge necks...

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290897' date='Sep 24 2008, 02:58 PM']Yeah I’m planning on doing the whole thing…I’ve actually started already – I’m rubbing the wax off with the scotchbrite cloth and a bit of fine wire wool, but should it look like the surface of the wood is scratching ever so slightly? I’m just lightly pushing on the cloths and rubbing down the wax in a circular motion which seems to be working well but it’s leaving very faint scratch marks. Most of these scratch marks come off if I rub them down hard with my thumb or a dense washing sponge, but should it be scratching like this in the first place or will they disappear once I apply the melted layer of wax? A couple of “Before” pictures;[/quote] >>>I’m rubbing the wax off with the scotchbrite cloth and a bit of fine wire wool, but should it look like the surface of the wood is scratching ever so slightly? Run with the grain - don't go in circles. No need to be too heavy handed. I didn't bother with steel wool - I found that scotbrite was enough. After a rub down the bass should then be fine. As for the neck - looks like there might be a tiny bit of warping, but nothing a luthier couldn't level off. Is it noticable when you try to get a good setup?

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290685' date='Sep 24 2008, 11:12 AM']Thanks for the advice everyone . I’m going to head into town in a bit to stock up on supplies (brush, steel wool, brown paper, scotchbrite cloth, and a cheap tea towel – if I use a nice one from the house my girlfriend is likely to kill me ) and then I’ll start work on it this afternoon through to this evening. I’ll probably take some pics of the whole process and update this thread as I go but obviously I’m not looking to rush it at all so it might take a few days to finish the whole job. Just 1 more question – Any advice on the best (economic and least messy) way to melt a small chunk of Warwick beeswax? I’ve got 2 pots of it – 1 old one that is quite dried up, and another that’s only about 3 months old and nice and fresh, so I’m thinking I’ll chop a bit of wax out of the dry pot and melt this and then tomorrow apply a ‘normal’ (not melted) fresh coat of the newer wax and then buff up as appropriate…is this the way to do it?[/quote] Sounds okay. The only thing you might find is that the bit you finish looks so much cleaner than the rest of the bass! To solve this just take the bass apart and do the whole body! More work, yes, but the payoff should be better... Rick

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290417' date='Sep 23 2008, 10:45 PM']Ah very nice So how would one apply a melted layer of wax? :wacko: (this process is being put into practise tomorrow me thinks :brow:)[/quote] With a brush as Paul Cooke said, or a decent bit of cloth will also be fine. I used a cloth.

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290194' date='Sep 23 2008, 06:16 PM']It is indeed a natural finish, and the scotchbrite cloth idea sounds like a gooden, cheers Rick. I think that idea should definitely work with a couple of the shallower dings/scratches. I gave it a good wax up this afternoon so depending on how arsed I can be, I’ll probably end up giving it another going over tomorrow with some scotchbrite stuff and see how it goes. My girlfriend thinks I’m being finicky about it though cos realistically it’s not bad at all for a 10 year old bass that’s been regularly used...there's nothing like a smooth natural finish though [/quote] It does work well. Here's a pic of your old Thumb after a brush up. I went ahead and did the whole body (only took a couple of hours work). You might find that your refinished bit looks so much fresher than the rest so you might want to consider the same. If you do decide to re-wax then the way Warwick do it is to apply a melted wax layer to the bare wood before waxing as normal for later layers. I guess this is to help the wax soak into the wood. I picked this tip up from the Warwick forum and it worked perfectly for me.

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290086' date='Sep 23 2008, 04:31 PM']Yeah I’m thinking that myself – I could just make it a lot worse :wacko:[/quote] If you're worried about the heat then why don't you try smoothing the ding back with some green scotchbrite cloths and re-wax? I refinished the Thumb BO that way.... Won't remove it completely, but it should make it far less obvious.. That's assuming the Streamer has a natural finish.....