rmorris

[quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1463136854' post='3048867'] I've tried telling them that nobody uses stereo, but it's just in one ear and out the other. no ? maybe ? [/quote] Boom Boom...Respect :-)

[quote name='sebowden' timestamp='1464118085' post='3056739'] Hello hello hello, I bought an OCD clone a while back to use on bass, and while it sounds great, I'm just not getting the lows I would like. I know there are blend circuits available but then I'm faced with the issue of polarity.. is there a way I can get around this? Is there any other way of getting more bass out of my pedal? Changing caps or something? Pic of the pedals guts is up, but I can add more if needed. By the way, there is no way I'm buying a separate looper pedal for blending! All the best, SB xxx [/quote] Mmmm...sort of depends whether you want low frequencies clean or distorted... On polarity - do you mean problems with polarity of clean vs distorted ? as opposed to absolute polarity ?

[quote name='MoJo' timestamp='1464091899' post='3056464'] My Rumble 500v3 often makes a noise like bacon frying when I turn it on. More often than not, it will disappear during a gig (the noise, not the combo). I'm thinking that it may be a dry soldered joint, but a local amp repair company won't touch it. The guy joked on the phone that the 'D' in D Class stood for 'Don't want to know'. Fender Service Dept said that it 'might be worth looking at'. Apart from the noise, it works perfectly and I love it to bits. Does the 'D' really stand for disposable? Is it repairable and if so, is it going to cost as much to repair as to buy another? I'd thought about buying a backup head just in case it does go bang, but there's no external socket to allow me to use the combo as a speaker cabinet, bypassing the built in amp. Not sure where to go next [/quote] If you can access the cable to the speaker it should be easy enough to wire in a normalled jack socket such that the internal amp is disconnected if you plug in an external source. Of course better if you can get it fixed.

[quote name='uk_lefty' timestamp='1463552981' post='3052176'] I have heard that the behringer plastic cases are ABS and not standard plastic, so much tougher. The tuner pedal I used for four years or so is still in one piece with no signs of cracks or anything. I really don't think the casing is anything to worry about. Put the behringer guts in a metal case and you'll still have the same effect. [/quote] I think that mechanically the cases are fine but it's the switch mechanism that can be a weak point on the 'BOSS' type pedals. The BDI21 (and GDI21 etc) have a different switch arrangement and while it's an odd sort of thing it seems to be more reliable (???) Does anyone know if the plastic cases are coated internally for screening ?

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1464006928' post='3055668'] Penetrating oil, soak for a long while. Only problem is the penetrating oil will cost more than scrounging a s/h bridge saddle [/quote] Well I guess lots of people have some WD40 or similar in the garage / shed... But yeah, replacing saddle might work out better. The thread of the saddle also likely corroded/contaminated and in need of a clean out ???

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1463740327' post='3053715'] That's an interesting thought regarding the signal polarity of the Theremin. I'll have to open it up and check. The external PSU looks as though it's earthed. Should there be electrical continuity between that and one side signal wiring from the Theremin? However the output jack is attached to the metal front panel along with all the other controls so I would have thought it would have been wired up the right way round. Having said that IIRC it's only when we have to use it with a Behringer DI that we have a problem. Were normally happy to use whatever DI is being supplied by the PA and only get out our EMO if they are short on DI boxes or if the engineer is getting no signal at the desk in which case it always turns out to be a Behringer DI. The EMO does have a ground lift but it is switchable and although I would normally have it in the lifted position, the Theremin is usually set up by Mr Venom and so there's no guarantee that it is always like that. If you are correct about the Theremin would disabling the ground lift on the EMO also kill the signal? [/quote] Could be a problem with the Behringer DI I suppose - do you use it with other sources ? Does the Theremin work okay into,say, a guitar amp ? I would expect disabling the ground lift (ie having ground continuity In to Out) to kill the signal. Always a bit difficult to tell without being 'hands on' as there are so many ways to wire / miswire balanced / unbalanced circuits and various types of circuits used.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1463091877' post='3048618'] It's a [url="http://www.music-group.com/Categories/Behringer/Signal-Processors/DI-Boxes/DI100/p/P0062"]Behringer Ultra-DI 100[/url] and the EMO is the [url="http://www.emosystems.co.uk/Products/Passive_Direct_Injection_Boxes.html"]E520[/url]. [/quote] Sorry - meant t reply to this earlier but it got lost... So I looked up the EMO E520 and it seems to be a passive (transformer only) design. From that it would seem that your output from the Theremin is wired the 'wrong way round' ie signal to GND/Screen ? So with the active input Behringer DI the signal is grounded hence no signal from DI. With the EMO it sounds like it has a ground lift switch in the 'lifted position'. Used like this the transformer input cares only about the differential at its input and is oblivious to the polarity. There will be an output from the transformer - it will be 'phase reversed' but you can't tell that in isolation.

[quote name='Les' timestamp='1463595923' post='3052742'] Death by misadventure [/quote] Are you handy with a soldering iron / multimeter / 'scope ? That circuit isn't too complicated if you can get to it and pull a schematic from the web... My guess would be that it's the electromechanical bits most likely the problem - switch / pots / connectors etc ?

Water (ie tap water) isn't really very conductive at the low voltages used for pedals etc. Different matter at mains voltages - electric heater in bath scenario etc... Don't know about beer though given the sugars etc. Might cause problem with electrolytic caps ? - not all types are 'sealed' against fluid ingress. IPA +1 If dishwasher not successful any chance of access to an ultrasonic cleaning bath ?

Assuming you running off a single socket / single phase supply... [url="https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/RCD_Protected_Range/RCD_Protected_Range_3/index.html"]https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/RCD_Protected_Range/RCD_Protected_Range_3/index.html[/url]

[quote name='pfretrock' timestamp='1463323715' post='3050451'] I've had this on my P. the original crap quality socket was replaced after 18 months as the plug kept falling out. Replaced with a Switchcraft part 6 months ago, now sometimes I get hum with this until I touch the strings. I believe the problem in my case is poor earth connection between the plug collar and socket. Plug is Neutrix, so no problem there. Nickel plating is not the best low resistance contact material! [/quote] You don't have a problem with the Switchcraft socket. The point of the earth/ground connection of the strings/bridge via the socket is that it 'grounds' you when you touch the strings/bridge. Otherwise you tend to act as an antennae for noise and this gets picked up by the bass pickup/electronics. (note that if you touch something else that is earthed - eg amplifier chassis screw then the noise should also reduce). Nickel plating is fine and adds no significant resistance. The problem with jack/plugs is more likely to be mechanical and now that you have replaced the poor socket the Switchcraft/Neutrik product should be fine. If there's a problem with the plug or socket - either mechanical or dirt/grease/corrosion then you will hear it in the sound breaking up.

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1463087924' post='3048561'] Trying to get a constant Q adds circuit complexity and in some way can restrict the sound. However a variable Q is a must for a PEQ. As for shelving controls, they are OK but to my mind the Bass control should have a tail off ( or HPF function) at the lower end and likewise the Treble should tail off before it gets too high. The reason is that so called shelving controls keep going up in level, way past the useful frequencies. [/quote] I wasn't clear what I meant about 'constant Q'. Yes you do need to be able to vary Q in a real parametric EQ. But what I really thinking of was the difference circuits where the Q can be set independently of gain as opposed to those where the actual Q varies with gain - ie whether the controls are independent or interact. ime constant Q is vital for room correction / set up with ,say, a 31 band graphic EQ. For creative/musical use with parametric EQ it's a matter of choice and doesn't always sound good/natural as you point out - basically you have to adjust it manually whereas the interactive EQ might have done it for you ! Agree on the EQ. I like to have seperate switchable hi and low pass filters - they can then have steeper curves than the EQ itself - and variable frequencies (asking lots I know - think Iike have something like a high end mixing desk channel in mind - distant memories of a DDA AMR24 desk but in DAW PlugIn World much easier :-)

What is the Behringer DI model ? And the EMO ?

[quote name='cd_david' timestamp='1462969630' post='3047377'] A loud earth hum appeared on my 73 precision yesterday, I've re soldered all joints and re sat the bridge earth but it still hums and disappears when I touch metal. Any thoughts? [/quote] I know it's an obvious thing to say (and you have resat the bridge) but you do really need to check continuity between the bridge and the output jack.

[quote name='cheddatom' timestamp='1462884427' post='3046602'] I'd never judge a brand as a whole, always take each product on it's own merits. The BDI21 is ace and I regularly record with it for actual releases being played on radio etc. I also gig it fairly regularly. Clearly it depends on what you want, but for a large portion of my bass tone needs, the BDI21 is actually "the best sound quality possible" [/quote] +1 Behringer produce such a wide range of stuff - Bass Rigs to Digital Mixers and the rest...- that it's difficult to generalise. I also have:[list] [*]the 'Hellbabe' Wah pedal : plenty of controls and and adjustments plus the non contact optical mechanism promises well. But it has problems with clicking at end of travel etc. Apparently (ie on the web) it's possible to improve the range etc by trimming some stuff around the optical sense / pedal mechanism. [*]HD400 'Hum Stopper' - Two 1:1 transformers in a small box - works well. I don't have technical spec on it for freq response etc. [*]Alo have a rackmount COMPOSER compressor. This is good - But it's the 'original' version which seems to have a much better reputation than the later versions (with the cheap looking 'shiny' front panels) [/list]

Quick Google turned up this (see link) £0.28 each (bought in 4s) - I didn't check all three rubber options - and £4.50 shipping. [url="http://www.flightcasefittings.co.uk/rubber-foot-f1693.html"]http://www.flightcasefittings.co.uk/rubber-foot-f1693.html[/url]

Ahh. Failure of sticky back Velcro type (hook & loop Fastener) is one of life's (more trival but) consistent annoyances. So the Velcro fastening is great but it's stronger than the adhesive - yes that's my IKEA Venetian Blind fascia I hear falling off at 3am :-) I've taken to using 3M Dual Lock type fastener for a DIY pedalboard project. Not cheap but very secure fixing. The adhesive side can get really quite complex as the best adhesive depends on the 'surface energy' of the surface being stuck to. I'd suggest to check it out at least. One note - I initially went with 400 mating with 400 strength and found that the adhesive wasn't strong enough. I supplemented it with Silicone but on further reading of the 3M literature saw that this was not a recommended combination. I'd suggest checking it out at least (the 400/400 stuff will make sense if you read the 3M data)

[quote name='paul_5' timestamp='1462714871' post='3045085'] Yup, the BDI21 is a brilliant piece of kit. Loads of players on here have them either as a back up or as a main pedal. [/quote] +1 This. The footswitch is a funny sort of thing. It doesn't run on phantom power. But it does sound good. And the build is actually pretty solid. Circuit wise I believe it has FET input opamps as opposed to the CMOS type in the BDDI. I have both and tbh I find it easier to avoid undesireable (imho) tones on the BDI. Basically I find it doesn't get as obviously distorted as the BDDI and prefer it just for a 'warm drive ' sort of sound. I don't know about relative noise levels. Both get hissy if you start to wind up the Treble and/or Presence controls. Also not really tested how the DI outputs compare in terms of balance. The phantom option is very handy on the BDDI if you're running into a desk.

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1462740015' post='3045403'] It's not bad actually. Three bands of Parametric EQ which are pretty wide reaching and of course that all important Q control for each band as discussed above! [/quote] Just crossed over with Dood's input. Is there an option to switch the outer bands to shelving EQ ?

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1462555282' post='3044047'] I realise I'm already sounding incredibly pedantic in this thread, but I think a parametric EQ will always have control over the Q. Without that it would be semi-parametric, with control over just cut/boost and frequency. Perhaps the best way to get a mid focussed para would just be to tweak the circuit of a reasonable quality full range one? I'd be useless at that, but for those with the electronic and soldering skills it should be an easy modification. [/quote] Yes - you're right. Without a Q control it is really a semi (or is that a two thirds :-?) parametric or what might be called a 'swept mids' EQ. As a complication Q might be offered as switched between discrete settings (usually just two - Wide or Narrow) or variable on a pot'. Then you have the issue over whether constant Q is preferred and the definition of Q itself. It can get complicated. I guess we could always rely on our ears :-)

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1462388588' post='3042670'] That may be the case; Although I'm definitely no electronics engineer I'd imagine it is just a case of using different component values, but I'm ignorant of what's inside the box. As a consumer product it doesn't make as much sense to make one with limited range, hence the large amount of full range ones. Point is that, aside from the sensitivity of the frequency knob, any Parametric EQ will do the job, in my opinion. [/quote] You're basically right about the design aspect. There's no real correlation between the frequency range and the cost / complexity of the circuitry. It does occur to me that switchable or variable Q would be a big advantage.

for using buffers / low impedance electronics before the WM - take a look at the Mastotron fuzz or equivalents. Has facility to increase source impedance and work as intended with active pickups aand reamping etc. Also lots cheaper though you lose the painted graphic case !

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1462127833' post='3040501'] Any electronics that are in the signal chain before the WM will cause issues. Basically, if all power is off on your board and you still have a bypassed signal coming through, it is fine to be before the WM. Buffered bypass, active electronics (pickups or preamp) and, obviously, any engaged pedal will seriously reduce the usability of the sound. To more directly answer the question, the pedal does not need to be true bypass, but it does need to be mechanical and not powered. The boss OC-2 will interfere in bypass, but any true bypass alternative would not. Although, I usually have octaves after the WM, as tracking is usually fine and you avoid ruining the WMs tone with an active signal. [/quote]

[quote name='MagicOnion' timestamp='1461146611' post='3031779'] Clear! I always assumed that my Line6 DL4 was a digital pedal, but I have never experienced any problems with it when I had it on a daisy chain together with my other pedals. But it's probably better to connect it to an isolated output that isn't shared with any other pedal. Same thing for the Space Station: it'll need an non-shared isolated output. I have looked up how much the current draw is for every pedal. Polytune - 50 mA Boss OC-2 - 4 mA DIY BassScreamer - probably not more than 10 mA EHX Big Muff - probably not more than 10 mA EQD The Depths - 35 mA Line6 DL4 - different sources state different things, most likely around 250 mA Space Station - 500 mA There's still one thing I'm struggling with to figure out: both the Line6 DL4 and the Digitech Space Station require 9V AC. I've had my DL4 succesfully connected to and powered by the OneSpot (of which I assume it only gives DC) with a L6 converter cable. So I guess that the DL4 works on DC too? Or can such a small cable adapt DC to AC? Just wondering :-) As for my Space Station, I don't want to ruin it, so I probably need a 9V AC output on the power supply. [/quote] Sounds like you've been lucky with the DL4 noise. It is possible that a 'Digital' effect might have adequate noise suppression inside it or be well enough designed to avoid the issue in the first place. Bear in mind that low level noise issues may not be noticed in some circumstances - live / rehearsal etc but could become noticeable in, eg, a studio recording environment. The Space Station sounds power hungry ! DC into an 'AC' input can work depending on the detail of the 'AC input'. A simple bridge rectifier circuit will accept DC of either polarity and produce the correct polarity at the output. You may be running at reduced voltage level with 9V DC going in- probably losing 1V or so across two diodes in a bridge giving somewhere around 8V. 9Vac (rms) going in will get uou about 11V at the output as it gets rectified to the peak value minus the diode drops. Whether any of that matters depends on the internals of the unit. Best stick to the specified AC or DC as other units may have different power input circuitry and internals.

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1460907341' post='3029679'] I've just treated myself to a WMD Utility Parametric EQ. I'll let you know how I get on with it. Not just mids though, this is a full Para EQ pedal. YAY! [/quote] imo I can't really see justification for a 'Mids only' pedal. You've gone to the trouble of getting a box/pedal/ connectors etc so you may as well get at least high / low shelving EQ in there as well ! The WMD Parametric looks the business. We wait to hear what you make of it...