Woodinblack

We do abba, so that is why that doesn't cause a problem for us. One of the heavy songs, I use the full distortion for that one. We get that quite a bit. People get a bit annoyed with me - "Do you do any oasis", "Who?", "Oasis!", "Sorry mate, never heard of them", "Dont be stupid, you know - lateleeeey.. gonna be the one that saves meeeeee...", "Nah sorry, doesn't ring a bell". I really really detest oasis! On the other hand, one guy at the last gig was really insistant we should do Hazel O'Conner 'will you'. Doesn't strike me as a good song for a party / dancy band like us.

What is the pattern on yours?

Ahh - so one with a processor in too - makes sense. Don't think I would use one of those on a bass! I like that. I probably wouldn't play it live, but only because it had a string too few! In fact the only thing I am not so keen on on that is the XLR on the front.

What leds are those? not sure what a neopixel is, but a normal red led is 20mA at 1.8V at full brightness, which is pretty bright. But I must admit more what I am after is a fine red (or whatever colour, definitely not blue) dot on the side marker, that wouldn't be just visible under normal lighting conditions. So I am thinking with fibre optics, 10 dots powered by one LED. Or at the very most like the lights on Jimrs2k2 status

I agree too - too many memories of a dragon 64 for it to sound good And yes, I vote for a dragon parallel with the nut

Agreed. Something dark. Personally I wouldn't go for actual ebony due to its origins and the problems of getting it, but something certainly blackish!

would love some! Although only side markers rather than top.

I think someone already made a replacement nut for it. I think i might have to do it again I have seen sharks with a straighter set of teeth!

We always play too fast, the drummer admits he does and we put effort to slow things down. We have a flashy light on the iPad, which sometimes helps. We have been working on the songs and some have slowed down a lot. If we feel it is too fast we slag off the drummer, tell him he is useless and ruining everything, and he calls us rude names and slags off our playing, and then we laugh about it and have a drink. Then we work on the speed.

With my collection of Ibanii, I have gone through most of the collection of Bartolinis, genuine and licensed and Nordstrand. I can see why people would choose one over the other, they are not that similar (although I haven't tried many different nordstrands). For me, the Nordstrand Big Single wins the pickup I would rather have on everything award. It is rather growly and just has a life and presence to it that very little I have used has. The custom designed pickups on the 5005, they are so different it is hard to say, although the neck pickup on that is nice. I think the bridge one has a nice sound but it is hard to go from one to the other because of the volume difference. The general barts I have had on the other basses have varied, and are all pretty good, but nothing really grabbing. Apart from the wide ones on the SRFF805, which weren't pretty good. they were pretty dull. I do have a Nordstrand big blade to use, it was going to be on the GVB bass I have, but I am not keeping that so it is a spare.

and then saying you didn't!

Haha, I started the planning when I first glued the sides of this together! i also have one of those paulownia p bass bodies I wanted to practice spraying with

Annoyed but mostly rather happy and a little chuffed. I put the neck screws on, the bridge on, the nut on, some (old) strings on. Need to do the relief, still need to wire it. I am rather happy with it, it plays like a want (or will when the neck is adjusted). Annoyed because in the last days it has picked up some scratches, which I am not sure how I can correct. At the moment I will live with them. I am sure they won't be the last. So I took some pictures: This is what I wanted (except the lack of wiring currently!). 2 months ago it was 2 slabs of wood and a chinese neck on ebay and a bunch of parts in warehouses. If it wasn't for the fantastic community in here, it would still be those things. Thats everyone for the support and encouragement and I would like to reiterate the point that for anyone watching, I am completely inept at woodwork, if I can do this, you can do this too (and probably a lot better).

Very busy gig last night, loads of people, played 3 hours again. Very responsive crowd, still doing the ‘one more song’ thing after that. drummer spent two songs searching for his lost earplug only to find it on the drum. Tired this morning!

Not surprising as it is on the shuker stock web page

Oh yes, like a zebra!

I made an offer less than his opening price. So I am picking it up tomorrow!

Like this overwater? https://thebassgallery.com/products/overwater-progress-iii

Looking good. Those light strips seem to work pretty well

No I just made that from what I wanted. It is a watered down version of what I have on the G&L which has a different 'tapp outside or inside coils' tap (which makes next to no difference). The bit not shown on that that is shown on the wiring is the bit past the volume which is the switch for active / passive on the volume which just routes the input and output away from the preamp, and the preamp. It had a slight complication as it goes to an active circuit and originally the volume is part of the active circuit (and a different value) but I couldn't keep that and have the volume work in passive mode as well, so I took the volume out of that circuit and put a passive volume before the preamp, which is how the G&Ls L series work, and if it worked for me fender it is fine by me. The G&L L series is actually an entirely passive bass (controls wise) that at the end where the jack socket would be it goes to a preamp entirely for buffering.

The bridge spacing appears to be exactly the same as the bridge on my dean - I figured it looked like the same sort of thing. I was kind of thinking of getting it for parts for a good one, having got an aliexpress bass I know what they are like, and I suspect the only real reason you would sell a bass without strings is that without the strings it makes it hard to see if the neck is bowed or otherwise damaged. There is a lot of force on a 12 string neck (which is why the original hammers were shorter scale), and the deans have twin truss rods to hold it, that doesn't. The E and A strings are indeed correct and the D & G are upside down, except that the nut (which would need replacing) is backwards too (not that it matters considering it is no use). I was still in two minds about getting it, but if anyone else was going for it I wouldn't as I would only be buying it for parts. I doubt the neck is any use at all. And then I want to buy a replacement 5 for my cricket bat, and a roli block, and.. I don't know, there are some expensive basses on here that are still tempting!

Its actually from the Ibanez 1605 premium - they disconinued that one as its body was so light it head dived a bit, so I replaced them with hipshot ultralights, and cured the problem Might take you up on that, although I suspect that by the time the things are all together, the tuners from china will be in so I will be replacing all of them!

This is the circuit that that mess is from: Thats with Sw2 untapped, and SW1 in normal (parallel) mode

Its not wonky, its character - like a gold tooth Quite frustrating when you spend ages looking and end up buying a 3L2R set, which obviously is 2 on the left and 3 on the right. But the only reason I bought those is that they were cheap, as I had to get something to cover the ones from china that had been delayed (and will presumably come), which are the wilkinson versions of the ultralights. Actually, when it comes to tuners, the black ones are cheap noname tuners, the gold one is a Gotoh!