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ped

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Everything posted by ped

  1. ped
    Hi mate sorry I missed this. I haven't really put the octave, or any of the effects, through their paces yet. I usually don't use the amp for band practice but I'll take it next week and give it a good trying out. I find the response and character switches make a huge difference to the sound. My default is classic + linear, which gives a slightly more mid heavy sound which suits a band mix well. I did use the flat setting more with my Jazz, which game a tremendously clear full range sound which suited the bass really well. 6L6 and 6550 modes offer up some grind and the 6L6 I found particularly punchy. I realise I need to play with it a bit more, now that I'm so familiar with my bass in a range of contexts, so that I can properly assess the range of sounds available. Since getting the amp I have only used it a handful of times, pretty much with a different bass each time in a completely different context, so now that I have a stable setup (ha!) I will be able to assess it more easily. I have definitely found the compressor to be bang on for my needs, though - it's worked perfectly with everything I've thrown at it.
  2. ped
    No, I certainly haven't
  3. ped
    Don't know why but a refinish always puts me right off. Good job, otherwise I'd be much worse off!
  4. ped
    I'm fine with a slab Mustang, but found a slab Stingray a tiny bit tricky when seated. I had a flat top Bacchus jazz which had quite a sharp edge which wasn't very comfortable either. Belly cuts though - never seen the point. Maybe it's just me but the way I hold a bass, the belly cut is quite far to my right and not near my belly at all. I guess they save some weight, but if I actually put my belly there the bass would be wayyy too far to my left!
  5. ped
    Roland GK system, internal install Kaoss pad Sims pickups? Coil taps and phase switches Varitone control Might as well chuck some LEDs on there too
  6. ped
    Bought a Spectracomp from Luke, even during a house move he managed to find it and have his wife post it very quickly. Thanks to you both!
  7. ped
    Oh I’m not sure - just the WL20 for guitar/bass. As in not the L version (is that what you’re referring to as full range?) I’ll be using it with a passive bass 99% of the time so thought that was best.
  8. ped
    I have just bought a used Boss WL20 set so I'll give the a go. Generally love Boss/Roland gear so let's see.
  9. ped
    Here's mine, I think black pole pieces on a white pickup would look pretty cool and subtle.
  10. ped
    Give the seller a call and have a chat, or do a Zoom. Then pay with Paypal (not Friends and Family) if you're still unsure.
  11. ped
    No amp for home use. I go bass into backbeat G2, into pedalboard then into VB99 which is linked to computer and a TecAmp bassboard, then take headphones out of the VB99. Sounds and feels amazing, better than using an amp and bang on my studio sound with all the feel of a rig behind me. I don’t really consider it a ‘practice’ setup because before I was in my current band and even now I do most of my playing at home along with tracks. It’s my go-to setup for most of my playing as opposed to a compromise over my live setup.
  12. ped
    You normally just put the price or trade value 👍🏼
  13. ped
    None have the battery life if the Boss WL20 though
  14. ped
    What about the WS70? Has lower latency <3ms and looks pretty cool
  15. ped
    I had an '83 Stringray which was YOB. That's not why I bought it though, and honestly it didn't matter to me much - kind of a nice coincidence but it's hardly relevant that it happened to be screwed together on the other side of the world the same year I burst onto the scene.
  16. ped

    NAD: Ampeg pf20t

    ped replied to lidl e's topic in Amps and Cabs

    I use the 50t and 2x10 for practice and think it sounds great 👍🏼
  17. ped
    I think it was tightened all the way but not doing enough work, so with a nut added and more tightening it’s now engaging and flattening the neck, so the bullet is sunk in because now it tightens more than before. Seems logical and fine to me, if everything now seems stable and flat I’d be more than happy. I’ve had bullet truss rods where nearly the whole bullet is hidden (I like super flat necks) and never thought twice about it, although I always quite liked the look of being able to see more of the bullet itself. I’m always wary when buying any instrument because I know deep down that it’s normally going to need some adjustment to suit me, and I never know whether the bass will support said adjustments well enough until you’ve had it for a few days. As a result a honeymoon period is often spoilt and the real fun begins when you find that yes the action does go low enough and yes the frets are level and there’s no ski jump.
  18. ped
    Boring update from me (at least my wife struggled to feign interest). I got some longer screws for my bridge so I can intonate properly without the saddle being partially beyond the length of the screw. This necessitated a lot of research into the correct type, for which Fender were quite helpful but beaten to the punch by someone on Talkbass. If you look at most vintage mustangs you’ll see that the screws are not long enough to offer much adjustment, particularly in the D and G strings. Perhaps this is why the bridge is a tad further forward on reissues, who knows. Anyway the correct screws are Phillips UNC 6-32 2-1/2inch (or 2 inch for E and A). Exciting 😜
  19. ped
    Hopefully a future update will allow us to force play this whenever a member has the tab open
  20. ped
    I’ve never really bonded with 5s. I’m so used to playing 4 strings tuned in drop D that it feels off - for as long as I can remember my octave shapes in the bottom string have been altered accordingly. I’ve had loads though despite this, from Ken Smith, Vigier, Alembic, OLP, Carvin
  21. ped
    I think they are one of the reasons that Fender/G&L/Musicman stopped using the micro tilt mechanism. There are loads of examples out there. It takes a long time to happen so add a shim now and you may never live to see it cause an issue.
  22. ped
    This is why I think filing down the bridge saddle grooves is the best option, depending on how much rom you need of course. Saddles are cheap, it's easy to do, gives you more adjustability and avoids any possibility of a ski jump. I've done it on a few instruments, and of course on neck thru basses it's the only choice anyway.
  23. ped
    This is a new one (to me at least) Duesenberg Kavalier, 30.5" scale About £2k though but the Triton bass they make is pretty cool sounding. Not 100% sold on the Art Deco style but I like the body shape. https://reverb.com/uk/item/80823023-duesenberg-kavalier-bass-narvik-blue
  24. ped
    File down the saddle grooves with abrasive cord 👍🏼
  25. ped
    There's definitely something special about the originals isn't there! All of my pedals are massive so I nearly got the Aclam board which seems like a neat solution, if the clamps can take the weight of the muff. You don't want it falling off because it might kill someone!
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