Norris

The key is not removing too much material in one pass. If you need to use the full depth of the cutter to get the bearing on the template, shave a mm or two off with each pass until you work your way to it. Don't try to chew it all out in one go.

I did like the thread on PG where someone calculated the "cone of clamping pressure" and made a paper template for the clamping locations. Never enough clamps though - I'm going to have to invest in a few sash clamps for my next build! Lovely work so far Andy. I wish I could work as quickly as you (PG = ProjectGuitar.com if you are into your build threads)

I suppose I'm lucky in that I've never had to wear ear protection as we just don't play that loud. The guitarist is the same (although he wears them for his pro band) and doesn't like it too loud. We only mic the vocals - nothing else through the PA It really doesn't have to be deafening to get a good tone or to have a good night. Think of the poor punters too - will your liability insurance cover hundreds of people with hearing loss?

Was pro for a year or two at a very low level, but then decided I wanted to earn money. Day job and weekend warrior for the last 30 odd years

My Boss GT6B multi-fx has a few amp and cab sims built in. They don't call them by their copyrighted names but it's fairly simple to work out what they are

A few times in my youthful exuberance but not for many years. Fingers too

If you're happy with a darker shade,could you over-spray it with a tinted lacquer? (If you have no chips or dents in the existing finish)

If a DB is double bass, what fraction bass will yours be?

So a DB uke

Are you going to play it upright? I'm still having trouble picturing it so will be interested to see how it progresses

At least you didn't nail it on

Ooo - I like that!

Looking fantastic! I love my shinto rasp too

Darned double post!

We use a pair of Mackie 450s for our trio. We only put vocals through the PA and that is plenty at the volume levels we play at - mainly pub gigs. They are not too heavy, make a reasonable sound and are quite affordable second hand. As they are powered cabs we only need a mixer to feed a line level signal. Certainly worth a look

I bought one bass unseen just because it HAD been gigged for several years by the previous owner. It was a bass from a maker of variable QC, so I reasoned that if it made the owner want to gig it then it must be a good one

The BT7 is described as being for MIM Fenders, and was also the one that fitted my Indonesian Squier P Bass Special. However do double check the dimensions of your bass against the specs on the Hipshot website. It's a bit of a faff and slightly confusing but the information is on there

If you look at the top of the nut down onto where the allen key goes in, anti-clockwise (or "lefty") to loosten, clockwise ("righty") to tighten. Take it steady

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1470165679' post='3103815'] Oh and if its rattling on an open E its possible the nut is cut too low too! [/quote] Yes - I was going to say check that the (slighty thicker) string is sitting comfortably in the nut slot

Blimey. You could probably get two boards out of that. The fretboard I got for my guitar build wasn't planed either, but was probably a bit cheaper than yours. Planing is nice though - very therapeutic

I lasted about two minutes. Just, no.

As if that top horn wasn't crazy enough, the positioning of the tuners is just wild! Top drawer stuff

A lower rated fuse may be mounted on the circuit board if it's not in an chassis mounted holder Edit: Ah well there you go - Dad has the answer

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1469818222' post='3101340'] Hi, Norris A six string carved top archtop electric has been on my list for ages. Seeing the skill and work clearly put into this original build has made me have second thoughts! [/quote] As you've probably gathered, I can do slow & patient

It started looking nice and ended looking gorgeous. Cracking job Andy! An archtop bass is third on my to-build list