Longmayyourun

Yes - this happens to us in one particular local venue. First option is of course to turn off the induction loop, but failing that, try moving the affected amp as it seems the problem is due to some kind of standing wave interference and can be very localised (I'm in way over my head here). Just a couple of feet can make a difference. In our case - lead guitar stage left = howling feedback, rythm guitar stage right (same amp) = no problem at all. I just know it's a royal PITA

Is it my hearing , or does that sound kind of warbly? Almost like there's a chorus in the chain too. I really want to like this pedal, but I'm not convinced by the demo.

Do you think there's a bass player on the production team at the one show? Last week Pino, this week Mark King - great stuff. And didn't they both come across as nice blokes?

Luckett. That's a place, not a Cornish expletive Although, now I've mentioned it.....

That detail with the maple body laminate tapering up the side of the neck - astonishing. And beautiful. I bet it was a nightmare to get just right.

A bit more purpleheart action to keep you going (I'm a fan too ) [attachment=113659:107.JPG] Sorry - didn't mean to hijack your thread. I look forward to seeing your build develop. (edit for apology)

I always take my PJB D200 as backup since my main head died on a wedding gig and I spent the whole evening plugged into a powered monitor (not something I'd want to do again) PJB is ridiculously small and light, but surprisingly loud if you give it a warm signal. (The Trace, by the way, had developed a dry solder joint, now fixed, and has never missed a beat since. I still don't go out without a backup)

I'm sure Ritter did a bass covered in tennis ball material. Off to have a look....

Come as you are (get your Chorus pedal out!)

Thank you for posting that - a lovely way to start the day (the music,not the confirmation that those who call the shots in our lives are a bunch of crooks) I should add ''alledgedly'' Sorry - breathing deeply......

Because I'm paranoid I've just run mine up again. I [i]cannot[/i] make it fart at any bearable volume - i'm just getting solid sounding deep bass. Daft observation but are you sure the built in 'overdrive' is not turned on? that does sound a bit like an angry wasp on high gain. And yes - it is a bit plasticky

This is interesting - I have one and really like it. I'm playing a Wizard 84 equipped bass through Newmark Redwave 'phones and it pro duces enough deep bass to melt my eardrums. Sure I [i]can [/i]make it hiss if I max out the gain, but I don't need to do that in order to get more than adequate volume. So - either I have a rare good one (unlikely) or my hearing is totally shot (possible) or I'm just not that fussy. Could it be the 'phones? I feel a bit lame now liking something that others really think is crap but it really does sound good to me.

Damn, really? I hadn't listened to any news today. Burritos are one of the reasons I wanted to play music. Very sad day

OK, thanks. It just seemed to me that once you put the fret at an angle to the string, rather than square to it,then bending the string can introduce a significant change in the length of the string. If I make a string longer (at the same tension) I lower the pitch. If I stretch or tighten a string at the same length I raise the pitch. I imagined that if the angle of the fret were sufficiently extreme then the lengthening effect of bending the string downwards would overcome the tightening effect and result in an overall lowering of pitch. Maybe I need to get out more

Just out of curiosity - a question for the fanned fret players out there, and I apologise if it is slightly off topic. I've been pondering for a while about what happens to the pitch of a note when you bend a string (yes - this would be more applicable to a guitar than a bass) I mean is there a point up at the dusty end where the fanning is most extreme, where by bending a string down, and therefore effectively lengthening the scale, you can lower the pitch? Conversely I suppose by bending up you might be able to achieve some fairly extreme pitch shifts. Or am I talking complete nonsense? Just wonderin'

[quote name='Monckyman' timestamp='1331078348' post='1567468'] I`d say ebay or second hand from flightcase warehouse would save a lot of pain, and might work out cheaper. [url="http://www.secondhand-sound-and-lighting-equipment.co.uk/second%20hand%20flight%20cases%20and%20trunks.htm"]http://www.secondhan...nd%20trunks.htm[/url] [/quote] If cost is the prime consideration I'd have to say I agree with this. A quick look at Adam Hall shows that a sheet of Astroboard alone will set you back £100 plus some shipping.You could easily double that when you add on Aluminium sections, corners,catches,handles,rack strip..........

I'd say the first one will probably be a pain in the neck - choosing the right parts (there are a lot of options in the Adam Hall catalogue) figuring out sizes etc, and you almost certainly won't save money given that factory made cases must be knocked out by the thousand, BUT there's plenty of satisfaction to be had from doing a good job yourself, and you end up with exactly the thing you want (with luck).For example I've built half width rack cases with plexiglass front panels before, and you probably wouldn't find them off the shelf, once I had to laminate a particular shade of moss green formica to 6mm ply to make a case, and then lined it in Black Watch tartan.What I'm saying is - you can have a certain kind of fun playing with ideas. I'm going to stop now as I'm beginning to sound more than a bit sad.

Hi Alex, It's certainly do-able but you're going to need a few tools to get a good finish: first off a mitre saw to cut the ally sections (Nobex do a good one)'cos while the cut ends of the casemaker sections can be hidden under the corners, the 'hybrid' lid mating section needs to be mitred nicely. (I'm assuming you don't have an electric chop saw, and even if you do I'd strongly advise you not to use it unless you really know what you're doing. I speak from experience.) A riveter of course - hand powered is fine for a one off, or even a few cases but you will build up muscle strength in your fingers. A drill for all those rivet holes, and some way to cut your chosen sheet material - a jigsaw would do it, a table saw would be much better, it's even possible to cut 'Astraboard' with a Stanley knife given enough care and patience. A file or two for de-burring metal. A band cramp or picture framing clamp to hold everything together while you stand back to look, or let go to pick up the drill. Problems? well you might well end up buying more material than you need - the ally comes in 4 metre lengths and the sheet stuff is quite big - probably enough for a couple or three cases depending on what you are making, - so a one off could end up being quite pricey. Having said that, if you get a decent result all your mates are going to be after you to build for them,so - go steady, take your time and measure everything at least twice, but have fun and go for it. After a couple of cases you'll know how the lengths of ally relate to the dimensions of the finished case (that's easier to think than it is to put down in words) and it will become much easier to work out your cutting list. Best of luck Andi

She seems to be doing that bizzare thing that sea bed dwelling fish do and blending into the background But seriously, that is one lovely looking bass. Congratulations

I'm wondering if anyone has experience of these phenolic impregnated 'boards as supplied by Tonetech - I'm considering trying one out on a fretless self build. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

With the disclaimer that I don't even pretent to understand how it was done :- I built a 2x10 combo for a customer a couple of years ago using his Randall head. The cab had a slot port. I got a local boffin mate of mine to rig up two strips of volume sensitive LEDs behind the port so, starting from the middle and radiating outwards they give increasingly bright light depeding on volume and playing dynamics. They are powered directly off the speaker terminals (apparently there is sufficient voltage to do this)It took him a couple of hours to work out the circuit and a couple more to fit it up and tune it. There have been no ill effects as far as I'm aware, it is still working and, I have to say, looks quite cool behind an angry metal/funk band. Don't know if this helps at all.

i think that's what you call a lovely tight bottom end......... (spelling edit - sorry, I was a bit distracted)

I put 84s in a self build this summer. At its first outing a regular audience member at our gigs commented that I must have been practising as I was playing a lot more notes (!) I had to dis-illusion him and say I was playing the same as ever but now what I'm playing is cutting through. Also my bandmates have forbidden me to go back to my old bass (Fender p - special) as the improved clarity and depth is great on stage. I'm very happy indeed with Wizards. Best of luck with your choice

This is me at a garden party/fundraising do back in the summer. Later on as it got dark the lights were switched on and everything went quiet. Turned out we had melted a couple of extension leads. Moral? - always check power supplies laid out by promoters [attachment=64128:DSCF1372.JPG] Edit: should have been in Post your Pictures. I shall now crawl back under my rock.

This is probably a really stupid question - but can you, by bending a string up at the dusty end where the fanning is extreme, get a note to go flat? I'm guessing not, as the increased string tension probably makes up for the (slightly) longer scale length, but it would be interesting to know