Longmayyourun

Got to agree with bobpalt about Bellowhead - go and see them live if you can (they are on tour for most of November) Eleven stunning musicians at the top of their respective games, and that music at full on rock concert volume makes for a truly visceral experience. (Disclaimer for shameless pride:- my nephew plays fiddle with Bellowhead )

Oh my - that looks fantastic! Have you worked from any plans or is it all feel and knowhow? You've got me eyeing up bits of wood in my 'shop now

[quote name='jakesbass' post='1000145' date='Oct 25 2010, 04:07 PM']Hmm... sorry to hijack but does that mean you have some ivories too? I have a few missing off an old bechstein and I'd love to replace them. Cheers Jake[/quote] No - sorry, I only asked for the Ebony keys when a couple of pianos were being scrapped nearby. I now have a very small but quite heavy Jenga set

Hi - did you get this sorted? If not I have what you're looking for (actually 2 pianos worth) Fell free to drop me a PM All the best, Andi

Nice bass! (although, as you say, heavy as a planet) I have the same - bought second hand about 27 years ago, and it is the only bass of mine that I have never had to adjust the neck on. All seasons and weathers it is completely stable. I love that neck. Good bargain for £50 too. Congrats!

This is looking beautiful - I'll be following with interest. Lovely carving and shaping.

In case a few of you like the idea of Walnut in a bass: - I started out making a new neck for my Mexican P special and got a bit carried away. [attachment=55243:IMG_1912.JPG] [attachment=55242:IMG_1915.JPG] [attachment=55241:IMG_1914.JPG] Hope you like it....

I'd spend some time practising with the oak/stain/grain filler combination if I were you - grain filler may not take the stain the same as the timber so you could end up emphasising the grain more than you want to. It's possible to stain the filler before you apply it to even out the possible difference. The best thing is to try different ways and see what works for you. Also - your Oak has a strong colour of it's own so by applying blue stain you may not end up with blue wood. Also also - there's a fair bit of tannic acid in Oak which, given time, could bleach out the stain leaving you with a slightly washed out yellowy green. Sorry - I don't mean to be a prophet of doom - enjoy experimenting. Whatever you end up with will be your own, and something to be proud of. Hope it turns out really well. It's a great moment when you plug in your own bass

I really like that. Nicely done! Just finished my own self build - 'P' shape too (in Walnut) but I've fitted a pair of Wizard 84s and the sound is astonishing - low E really like a piano, amazing note definition, I'm very very happy with them. I look forward to watching your build progress. In my experience Oak doesn't take colour stains too reliably - why not oil it and celebrate the wood for what it is?

Just received an item from Muzz - beautifully packaged and in great condition. The whole transaction was hassle free and a real pleasure - all queries answered and regular progress updates. I've no hesitation in recommending Muzz as an all round good guy to deal with. Thanks

Hmmm... Does this mean I should reconsider my plan to buy a D 200 amp Sorry that's a rhetorical question really, just thinking aloud - but I have been left feeling uncomfortable about PJB.

It's of no consequence really, but I'm curious to know, in the light of everything that's come up in this thread, if something has changed in the Flightcase design. As I said in an earlier post the one I bought for my son (two years ago now) was completely silent - not a whisper of hiss or static - and it seems unlikely that I bought the only good one. (maybe the electric down here in Cornwall is nearer 120 than 240 )

There was a Flightcase in my house until it went to Uni with my son last week. I can confirm that it was completely silent when switched on, even with volume and gain on full, with or without a bass plugged in. Said son uses it in the studio and on gigs and loves it because it is so quiet. I used to borrow it when I could 'cos it has such a lovely (to my ears) sound. Can't help thinking you've got a rogue one -hope you can get it sorted. Edit: just been on the Phil Jones Website - one of the taglines reads (admittedly in relation to the D200 amp) ''controls cranked, bass unplugged, this is what you will hear: nothing. This really was my experience with the flightcase too

[quote name='Telebass' post='627726' date='Oct 16 2009, 11:57 AM']"Me: 50 something, have played for 35 years, currently in loud covers/function/party band with attitude." Welcome from someone who sounds just like me! I'm in Calstock - where are you?[/quote] Luckett, just over the hill. You'd probably never go ther unless you're on the way to the Royal at Horsebridge

I'm a little confused as to why this thread surfaced again after 18 months, but anyways - thanks for the renewed welcome. Perhaps we should be working on a Devon / Cornwall bass bash (as far as I can tell, from here anywhere beyond Exeter is pretty much in the midlands )

I think that is truly amazing. Congratulations. I particularly like the soundhole shape (I looked at it for ages deciding it wasn't just a weird perspective) Nice one.

Nice one Andy. For what it's worth I think the maple 'board suits much better than the wenge would have done. You should be proud.(and only you can see the misplaced dots right?)

Sorry Cheddatom - slightly misleading thread title. This is my third build, but first build diary. First was the one in my avatar. Second was shown in gear porn back in January and looked like this: [attachment=32895:IMG_1280.JPG] This is the jig I'll be using to carve the body front and back [attachment=32897:IMG_1730.JPG] The body is fixed in here and a router suspended in a carriage (this one is for the convex top) moves forward and back, side to side to give an even curve to the body. [attachment=32900:IMG_1731.JPG] Here's the neck with angle planed to give correct string height at the bridge, fretboard fixed and radiused with ebony and maple binding/position markers [attachment=32902:IMG_1736.JPG]

Finally got some time away from trying to earn a living to have a go at a through neck. Wenge and Flamed Maple with accents in Purpleheart. 24 fret 34 inch scale. Hipshot hardware, and I'm wondering if I can afford a Q - tuner (or two) Anyway, it looks like this so far: [attachment=32851:IMG_1288.JPG][attachment=32853:IMG_1632.JPG] The headstock blank: [attachment=32854:IMG_1636.JPG]

Lovely looking top there Andy - should really stand out with some finish on it. Keep up the good work !

Hiya - if the idea of a Wenge 'board does it for you then I can help. I have a board of the stuff eight feet long, ten inches wide and two thick. One side of this is near as dammit quarter sawn and is earmarked for fingerboards. I've had others off it that have remained flat and true. Nice close grain too. Feel free to drop me a PM if you like. Cheers, Andi

Thank you guys for the thoughts. I've been up in the workshop looking at instruments in progress and wondering how many I can (afford to) get finished by October. Think I might just go for it. Tele shaped Baritone with flamed maple cap anyone?

Morning - Mansons are doing their guitar show again this year in October. I'm wondering if anyone could give me an impression of how it was last year (I didn't get there) as I'm considering taking a stand to show some of my guitars and basses. Not that I seriously expect to sell anything, but it might be nice to put my work out there to be seen. It's not too big, and it's local (ish) to me, so might be a good place to display my work. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Andy

Andy - DON'T SKIP IT, this is looking much too good for that, and you've put in a load of work. All you need to do is reinforce the split to stop it getting worse. I think if it were me I'd try inserting one or two fine screws into the side of the neck heel (they'll be hidden when it's assembled). Put a clearance hole through the split off section, and pilot hole into the rest to pull the split together, if possible do this either side of the neck screw that has caused the split. I realise you might come across the truss rod end if you are unlucky, but it looks to me that you should have enough room. Re-drill the pilot holes for the neck screws (my specialist subject is stating the bl**ding obvious!) Insert the neck screws with the neck removed from the body and a G cramp across the heel (careful with the depth) to be sure everything is OK before assembly. It's looking great - don't lose heart now.