Chienmortbb

You might just make that one.

Hopefully this helps.

You are tempting me to add another 8" cab to the After Eighty.

I read about a study that Fender did regarding the 7th Fret deadspot and if I remember rightly, the result was that the deadspot was caused a a number of things. These included 4 inline machine heads on a long headstock, and bolt on necks, Not surprisingly the report was never actioned for obvious reasons. The conclusion was that the ideal bass had a set neck or neck though and headless. So Ned Steinberger got it right it seems.

Nice work.

The amount of work needed to get the design from conception to finish, is considerable and getting test samples just makes things a little easier. Although this is a simple design, weeks of thought have already gone into refining the design and cabinet build to make it easy for us to build. Phil "the wood" Starr is already thinking about how to rationalise his easy cab build even more. Once that is done, there will doubtless be several iterations of measuring and refining the crossover before @Stevie "the coil" is happy.

This is my point I have two active basses and two passive basses and while the active bass's tone's barely change with volume*, the two passive basses lose top end when the volume is rolled back. Now you could argue that passive basses are an anachronism and I would subscribe to that intellectually, but we are where we are. perhaps as BM says, we can fit the bypass capacitor but for some that means an unwanted trip to the guitar tech or "ruining" a classic instrument. So the attenuation in the effects loop is IMHO the best option. * any change is likley due to the amp/speaker combination rather than the onboard preamp.

If its a passive bass with a conventional Volume and Tone controls, turing down the bass volume will also affect the tone. Would you suggest a Pi or Tee attenuator?

Yes particularly the valve ones 😁

In those sort of venues you have to trust the sound person. One of the problems we have in here and probably on TB is that we have pros that play to large venues with a good PA and many, the weekend warriors, that play pubs, clubs and bars where PA support is either lacking or insufficient. It is then up to the musician to ensure that his FOH sound is optimum. The worst of all worlds is putting the bass through what is substantially a vocal PA.

I find the wireless system ideal for that with the added bonus that I don’t fall over so often. I go to my local club on a Saturday when not gigging and have given up telling the bassists that the room has a real bottom end boom and they need to back off the bass control. The only one that needed more bass was using a PJB rig.

My point was that it is a rap shoot for players to mix cabinets. There are a lot of manufactures that do know what they are doing.

As usual all true but to sum up, it's a crap shoot unless you know what you are doing (and players do not).

That was thr Jaguar X Type,

I was perusing the Vox site today and they have two models both 30” scale. https://voxamps.com/en-gb/series/starstream-basses-en-gb/

That just about sums up my concerns.

Strange that they cover the top and back with Tolex. Probably means that they have wood panels there? The tweeter on the 12 Cube seems almost hidden by the grille. Lots of other things that I would not like but you can't argue with the weight. Interesting YouTube video on carbon fibre here

It's funny but I have never seen one befoere. I was intriguesd by the NuTube concept though. The cabinet looks moulded. Is is wood or resin based?

You horrible man. Just when my finances were starting to get back on track you show me this? Yes this wouild be ideal if you are doin a lot of work, and like Ashdown, they have excellent customer service being in the UK and nice Devonian people. Over the years I have used Antex, Weller and varoius cheap and cheerful brands but as I amsemi retired I now only use the Antex irons although I am tempted....

One problem with the soldering irons on EBay are that new bits are hard to find. Of course a temperature controlled iron is great but a good one is expensive from a reputable manufactur Having soldered for 50 years (with the odd tees and wee break) I would suggest that someone new to soldering choose an Antex iron. These can be picked up for about £20. Although not servo controlled they do maintain temperature well. They are UK based and do have temperature controlled irons. However I would suggest an 18 or 25 watts Antex fir about £20 is your best staring point.

Sounds like you should be OK then.

I am just wondering what motherboard and processor you will be using... Seriousley though, the amp itself will be 90% plus efficient but the biggest issue with those amps is the inductors. They often use the wrong core material and many people replace them with improved inductors. You will know if you run it at even moderate levels, if the inductors get hot you may need to change them. For those that are wondering, the inductors are the black squares.

No I used to do that when the washers came from beer bottle tops but using ring pulls, you end up with a picture like @marleaux62 😎

You're fine. its pixelation from a low resolution picture. you just need a better camera. 📸