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Chienmortbb

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Everything posted by Chienmortbb

  1. Chienmortbb
    I hope you are sorted however I bought much of OBBM's stock, including speakon connectors so it you need a specific cable, please let me know.
  2. Chienmortbb
    So I have finally finished the amp section of the After Eighty. I have connected the headphones only when the mute/standby switch is activated. The headphone side needs more gain as if you disconnect the headphones, the speaker output is so much louder. However the sound of the amp (through my 8" PA Cab) is really nice, I can't wait to try it with its own cabinet. Now it is time to sort out the cosmetics. The side of the cab where the port is needs sanding and repainting and I need to try to make some decals to reflect the new functions I have added.
  3. Chienmortbb
    After thinking about it for a while I have had a rethink. The headphone PCB is not easy to mount and I was.having second thoughts about using it. I went back to the blog post by NwAvGuy and looked at his measurements of the NJR4556 and it gave excellent results into 15 ohms. My headphones are rated at 32 ohms but my idea is to parallel the L and R earpieces from one side of the NJR4556. This would give an impedance of 16 ohms so that looks feasible. So I will be replacing the NE5532 in the balanced transmitter with an NJR4556 to drive either the amp or headphones. while the 4556 is not that well regarded as an audio device, the measurements show it is well suited to driving headphones and is more that good enough to use to both drive the amp/headphones and the DI out. I recently used a head that (to my surprise) did not mute the speaker output when the headphones were plugged in. I queried it with the manufacturer and was told that they considered that a small lightweight amp would be used without a cabinet with headphones so it was no necessary. Although I originally disagreed, I have to admit there is some merit to the argument. Disconnecting the speaker in a combo is not an option so the speakers must be muted. Luckily I can use a double pole double throw switch to both ground the enable pin on the icepower module (muting the power amp) and divert the signal from the amp input to the headphone jack.
  4. Chienmortbb
    I have laser sheets but ly laser is momo only. I will buy some inkjet ones and see wht they turn out like.
  5. Chienmortbb
    Sometimes I surprise myself how stupid I am. The original idea was that the D sized hole on the back would be the DI out and the one on the top would be for the external cabinet output. The reason for this was that the original speaker output jack was on the top and the legend was still visible with the Speakon fitted. That skewed my thinking and it was this morning that thought to reverse that. So now the XLR is on the top and the extension AB output is on the back. The wiring is complete although I still have to spray over the legend and find some way of printing gold on black. It should be dry tomorrow so hope to Sam’s the port and get a cost of tuffcab on. The it’s joust a case of sorting the headphone circuit.
  6. Chienmortbb
    Funny that, I have the same feelings about the two skinny pups on. a Jazz. I do agree about mulyi stringed, wide necked monsters though.
  7. Chienmortbb
    I am shocked to realise that it is over 3 months since I posted. I did fit the port properly after Stevie had checked the performance. Of course that ruined the finish. It needs some sanding around the port as well as a new coat of Tuffcab. The amp is being a bit of a B. Although the rear mounted speakon looks good, it does take up a lot of space, in addition to which, I cut the speaker cable from the power amp a little short. So I am struggling to get the speakon and internal speaker connected. I do have a faston speakon connector somewhere and that might be the answer. The headphone amp is also a bit of a problem as there is no way of mechanically mounting it. If there was no headphone hole in the chassis I may have just left it off, although that severely limits its use as a practice amp. My other dilemma is that the preamp power supply is a mess. I used it to try a number of things and it just looks ugly. However it does work, so I am considering whether to replace it with some PCB power regulators (originally bought for a different project) or leave it as it is. There was a very small amount of hum (i really mean small) that was just audible with boty Volume controls at max, Changing the power suppy regulators would also make it easier to rework the cable routing in an attempt to reduce the hum. As it is raining here, I won't be finishing the cabinet any time soon so on with the amp section.
  8. Chienmortbb
    My main amp is a Bugera Veyron (the MOSFET one) and iy has every input output available including an FX loop. My Ashdown MiBass 2 has nothing but an input, speaker output and Aux in. This got me wondering if anyone used the FX loop on their amp, and if so, what for? I have only evet used the EFX Return as power amp input bypassint]y the preamp but of course AUX in also usually does this.
  9. Chienmortbb
    Well done. I am sure you hae learnt a lot from the build and would do some things better next time. However it looks a lot better than my first cabinet.
  10. Chienmortbb
    I have one of those too.
  11. Chienmortbb
    I was lookimg at one of those but a Picoscope 2006 came up on ebay and that includes an Arbitrary Waveform Generator that can be automated. I have not had it long but I have used a plug in to check the frequency response of my amps. I will be doing a response of the Zoom B1 Four tomorrow.
  12. Chienmortbb
    I would love an ABM600 if it was a little narrower. I suspect they were designed with 19" rack mounting in mind, but something 350mm ish wise would suit today's smaller cabs. Please Mr Ashdown,
  13. Chienmortbb
    Not wishing to sound like a killjoy but should this thread be moved to theEffects forum?
  14. Chienmortbb
    This is made from three metres of Sommer Triclone XXl, a very high quality cable plus two straight Tricone XXL Jack Plugs ( HI-J63TC-SM) specially designed for use with this cable. They include a metal clamping system that grips the cable firmly over a large area. This ensures that no matter what the weight/load put upon the cable the connector stays frimly on the cable. Other lengths are available as well as other connectors. PM me for details. Tricone XXL is one of the best cables for use with instruments and the HiCon jack plugs used onntghese cable are specifically desinged fo nthe cable The signal conductor is bigger than most ensuring that conductor breakages are minimised. This is what Sommer say about the Tricone XXL: The Tricone® XXL has a fat PE foam insulation which is firmly enclosed and held in place by a carbon screen. This will optimise the capacitance and ensure a loss-free treble reproduction even over longer distances. This design and the Cu mesh screen will perfectly protect against external interference. The special LONGLIFE COMPOUND jacket ensures a high tread resistance and tensile strength Advantages: Powerful, clear sound with the transmission of any instrument signals Dual shielding by Cu mesh screen and conductive carbon screen Highly flexible and easy to reel because of its fine single litz design Extremely durable and rugged due to LONGLIFE COMPOUND jacket Application: High-quality guitar lead for stage & studio Unbalanced cable for all string instruments, keyboards, samplers, mixing desks etc. The HI-J63TC-SM jack plug is made for the Tricone XXL cable and when properly assembled it is probably the best jack plug/cable combination there is.
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  15. Chienmortbb
    This is a speakON to speakON cable made from 1.2mm2, ultra flexible speaker cable with Neutrik NL4FX speakONs at each end. The cable is rated at 18+amps and the connectors 20 amps, that equates to 2600 watts at 8 ohms and 1300 at 4 ohms.
  16. Chienmortbb
    Made with 1.2mm conductors, good for in excess of 18 amps. This equates to aprox 2600 watts at 8 ohms or 1300 watts at 4 ohms. The connectors are Neutrik NP2X jack and Neutrik NL4FX speakON. The length is approx 700mm (2ft 4ins).
  17. Chienmortbb
    Made with 1.2mm conductors, good for in excess of 18 amps. This equates to aprox 2600 watts at 8 ohms or 1300 watts at 4 ohms. The connectors are Neutrik NP2X and the current carrying capacity depends on the mating jack (e.g. 10A with Neutrik combo Jack/Speakon or Locking Jacks).
  18. Chienmortbb
    Unless it were badly designed, you proabbly would not notice it on an instrument amp.
  19. Chienmortbb
    Spot on again @agedhorse I think the classification Class AB is very misleading, as it almost implies that the power stages of the amp are operating in Class A at some point.
  20. Chienmortbb
    Yes, if you want a big roundover, use screws and remove them once the glue has dried and fill the holes.
  21. Chienmortbb
    I built another of @stevie's kits about two weeks ago and had just found some longish panel pins. I decided to use them to help keep the cabinet rigid whil the glue dried. It worked really well and allowed me to to put the cab together much quicker. Once the glue had dried I used a nail punch to push the heads of the panel pins below the surface and then filles the holes with a mixture od wood dust and glue.Of the five cabinets I have built since the start of the Mk2 development (I built the original prototype) this was the easiest.
  22. Chienmortbb
    The TDA 2000 series such as TDA2020/30/50 are dual supply and although they can be used single supply, I would not recommend it especially as the quiescent current will br quite big, running down your battery faster. Thr TPA series are very efficient and will run cooler so I would stick with them.
  23. Chienmortbb
    Don't rush into it. You might find a 10" design on hereat some point. @stevie
  24. Chienmortbb
    Having heard Phil's RCF I can only agree that it would beat most cheap small bass cabinets when used with a pre-amp/modeller and as stage monitors I suspect they would excel. I will be sticking to my BC112 though with an amp as I built it and can modify it at any point.
  25. Chienmortbb
    Yes the Basschat Yes indeed altghough it is on hold at the moment. One other point is the tweeter control. If a cabinet is truly FRFR then the tweeter will not stand out and a control probably would not be needed. In the years I have been using the Mk2 and Mk3 Basschat 112's, I have never felt it too bright and could always get a good sound by adjusting the amp EQ or bass tone control(s).
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