Lfalex v1.1

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='884884' date='Jul 3 2010, 04:13 PM']Being the terminology-snob I am, I saw the thread title and thought, "I don't play eighth notes... I play [i]quavers[/i]!" Anyway, I use index or middle equally. Depends on what's been leading up to it. Or, more often than not, raking down to it.[/quote] This. With one condition. The first note of every tune gets played with my index finger. And I prefer Wotsits or Skips myself.

No worries! (I'm currently reading "Paul of Dune", having read all the others so far!)

One bit at a time- No need to allow it to cool before moving. Just treat it as you would any amp. Without looking at specs and stuff, I would suggest that the standby is just a "Mute" as you suggest. My old Trace SMX is the same. Generally, amps with [u]power[/u] valves (rather than preamp ones like yours) have an [b]on/standby/off[/b] switch instead. Check your manual- you may find it may mute the DI out also. Valve life varies. My first 12ax7 in my Trace lasted a year. The second has lasted since - well over a decade. My first went microphonic- picked up all the vibrations in the air, and howled along in unison. If the OTB has a blendable solid-state/ valve preamp, just turn it to 100% solid-state until you can replace them. 12ax7s aren't expensive. Less than £15 each. When replacing them, treat them like automotive halogen bulbs- don't handle them directly- do it through a cloth or gloves. This stops grease deposits from your skin causing them to blow (I don't fully understand all the technicalities of this one. Maybe I'll wiki it!) Class D amps are lightweight, switched power supply amp stages. Common applications? Lightweight bass amps!! Car stereo head units also. Class D as opposed to class A (Tubes, by definition, though transistor devices can run in Class A) Class A/B, Class B, Class C (used in megaphones, apparently) All to do with current/voltage consumption and the linearity of the resulting stage (blah blah- wiki it!!!) Rebiasing: Power valves require a different biasing voltage to be applied to them depending upon their use in any given application, including in what class the amp is operating. Job for an amp tech or suitably experienced users, really. Not a concern for you, as pre-amp valves don't need re-biasing. Phew! Hope that helped! Edit for handling advice; Dont get any sand in it. Keep it away from sandworms, as rhythmic vibration attracts them. Nice username, BTW!

Some nice looking basses knocking around on here... I don't actually find my Streamline to sound that clinical. Perhaps it's the fact that I quite like worn-in (but not dead) strings. I don't slap mine either. I find that the series/parallel switching gives me access to more sounds, too (one quite extreme!) If I had to have an S2, I think I'd try and get Rob to do something with a nice piece of Zebrano, with the grain running outwards, parallel to the axes of the horns. That'd look wicked, but I don't think that the funds would be around for a long time. Further to that, I probably wouldn't buy another Status. Not because I don't like them, but because I've alreday got one, and like a good bit of variety in my basses (materials/pre-amps/designs)

Well done Davidak! Good quality research and translation. And motivated by a desire to help other bassists. Excellent stuff!

[quote name='henry norton' post='883259' date='Jul 1 2010, 06:25 PM']Naaah, Cliff Burton[/quote] Roll it back a few years and eveyone's happy; Newstead-Flotsam & Jetsam Burton-Metallica Trujillo-Suicidal Tendencies

I hate the notched stacks. Also, IIRC, the capacitor values on the tone controls are 0.22mf and 0.47mf for bridge and neck respectively. Think I got that the right way around....

[quote name='BigRedX' post='881887' date='Jun 30 2010, 01:23 PM']Different strings for different basses. You've got to find the right strings to suit the bass and the way you play it.[/quote] Another +1 here; DR Fatbeams on the Vigier & Squier DR Sunbeams on the Jazz Elixirs on the Warwick Infinity Rotosounds (bleugh) on the Warwick Streamer LX6. I'll switch back to Warwick Yellow Labels next time around Status Hotwires on the Streamline I can't remember what's on the Yamaha Attitude at the moment. Likely to end up with Sunbeams or another DR type on it.

I often wonder what the Wal electrics package (pick-ups/eq) would sound like in a different body with a different neck. Imagine something like a Jazz with all the right bits in. Still cheaper than the original, but how close would it get?

Just a Streamline for me.. Don't [i]really[/i] need another, what with the Vigier and all, but if I had to have another, then it would be an S2 (headless) with a few little electronics mods...

[quote name='BassBus' post='878823' date='Jun 27 2010, 01:48 PM']That was an all graphite Status S2. Don't judge the sound of Status basses by his slap sound. It was pretty horific. Those basses produce a much better sound than came out last night.[/quote] He used a Red/Graphite headless S2 on ...Later with Jools Holland a while back, and it sounded okay then (to me)

Basslab L-Bow. Probably in a different colour, but not black.

Whilst it may be a little against the grain in a "P" thread, have you considered either the new East P-Retro or the Villex tone shaper. Both have been favourably received on BC and might present an interesting slant on the "P" sound. Otherwise, if you go down the pick-up route, a phone call to custom manufacturers like Wizard or Armstrong might be an idea. Tell them what you're after (in comparison to other pick-ups) and they might be able to do something for you.

Maybe a Shuker JJB?

I've yet to play a [i]bad[/i] Status... I'm sure someone'll snap it up and love it.

Never had an issue with painted necks. I own 4; Westone, Vigier, Yamaha and (sort of) Status. My Iceni's got a satin finish, and that's okay, too. I'm more likely to rub down the necks on my Warwicks, to be honest. They're quite lumpy/rough until "played in", then they're good, too. And I'm quite sweaty

After thinking about it, I don't think I'd ever de-fret a through-neck instrument. I'd much rather get a bolt-on and just swap the necks. Then I could chop and change without any permanent changes being made, and be able to return it to original if I needed to sell it on.

Generally they're very good. Plenty of sounds accessible from the series/parallel/single coil switching- and that's just with the stock 2-band MEC electrics. Last one I played got a thorough battering from [s]everyone's favourite toilet seat[/s] a Musicman Bongo 4HH, which sounded simply [i]Atomic[/i]! It seemed much better voiced, and the 4 band EQ really did bring out the best in the pick-ups. Neither are subtle, but I do wonder what a $$ would sound like with a set of Barts, a 3 band EQ with a mid-sweep and 18v power... Sometimes, I wonder if Warwick concentrate too much on the woods, and not enough on the electrics package. That said, I'd accuse EBMM of the opposite in the case of the Bongo. Even at this sort of price, there are still some compromises that need to be made.

For me, it's more about the Maple vs Rosewood fretboards(all else being equal) If you have the option to play them, try both and buy the one which feels & sounds best, irrespective of colour! YMMV, naturally!

Do loads of research- Price, condition, what features/hardware/specs were unique to '76. Track down as many as you can - even if it's just to get a feel for what to expect / see what people are offering. Try before you buy. Collection only - avoid courier issues. See what else everyone on here says... Once you track one down, get a second opinion? Any doubts? Walk away.

[quote name='BanditSid' post='866631' date='Jun 13 2010, 11:47 PM']... It's possible that the cables that connect the PCB.s together are the problem, the plugs can give problems when they age. Removing the plugs and soldering the leads directly to the PCB's is the best solution.[/quote] That's what happened to mine. That's how it was cured, too.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='868672' date='Jun 16 2010, 02:20 AM']They do a wheeled shelf thing that is rack sized too. It's the only thing in this pic I still own: [/quote] They're a good fit for Hi-fi separates / DVD players / VCRS / AV amps, too!

I've got some Whirlwind-Branded cables (which look the same as Fender ones) that a mate gave me over 10 years ago. I still have the two 10' ones. Neither have even crackled. The 30' got lost during an eventful outdoor festival gig, but had given a decade of trouble-free service, so I replaced it like-for-like. I also have a Planet Waves 4m. I like the "expanding" plugs and extra shielding. It, too, has been trouble-free. I have worn the gold plating off of the instrument end, though. I do look after my cables- coil them up tidily and loop them though the bass strap and through an amp/cab handle when in use. I don't use any pedals, and I think that makes them a little less vulnerable to damage. I also think that the sort of bands I've played in aren't too unkind to cables - No Grindcore for me, thanks!

"London Calling" - The Clash. Because I felt like it!

[quote name='Johnston' post='866963' date='Jun 14 2010, 12:53 PM']Does anyone know how much input any artist actually puts into a sig model. I've heard stories where the builders look at what the artist is known for, build a few variations and then give them to the artist to say which one. So the artist really just gives the okay put my name on that one rather than state what they want.[/quote] It varies, but in the case of the Attitude, it was heavily based upon the main features of Sheehan's P bass. This instrument is the product of rather a lot of tinkering over the years (mainly by the man himself) to get what he wanted... and the production model (somewhat tidier)