Jean-Luc Pickguard

[quote name='ste_m3' post='139617' date='Feb 13 2008, 04:18 PM']I think they may well be the highway series? Otherwise your not wrong, whaty a great deal![/quote] Definitely not with maple fingerboards.

As far as I know this book is out of print and isn't in stock anywhere at the moment, so if you want it, it would be a good idea to snap this one up. I've had my copy for ages - It gives a great insight into Duck's playing.

use cocktail sticks & glue

If you start with everything flat,as suggested above, experiment with boosting the mids a bit first - this should add some definition.

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='137297' date='Feb 9 2008, 08:39 PM']If you're putting a bass in the luggage, should you slacken off (i.e. de-tune) the strings?[/quote] No - as the truss rod would then be pulling the neck into a backbow.

Cons The single coil pickup doesn't have the same oomph as a split Precision Pickup The pickup is not humbucking, athough this shouldn't be a problem as long a the shielding is OK The slab body can dig into you if you have a bit of a gut The neck is a bit like a baseball bat (not necessarily a bad thing as some players prefer a chunky neck) Pros It looks great - This is obviously very important as it will inspire you to play it more if its difficult to walk past it without picking it up. Its best to try one if you can, if you can live with the chunky neck and slab body and you like the sound & playability, then its the right bass for you.

I bought some bits from Maplin & made my own power splitter cable to power just two pedals from a single 9v adaptor.

£200 would be taking advantage. I'd expect a mint '78 to go for at least £400 on ebay.

Here: [url="http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/bass_nutsaft.htm"]http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/bass_nutsaft.htm[/url]

It'll work. It [i]may not[/i] sound as good as one designed for bass as bass cabs are often ported to extend the low end and/or have a tweeter to extend the top end. I'm sure someone with more technical knowlege than I have could elaborate further.

I've had a couple of nice leather ones from [url="http://stores.channeladvisor.com/dangleberry-music/Guitar%20%2b%20Bass/Straps/"]Dangleberry Music[/url] They also have an [url="http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Dangleberry-Music"]ebay shop[/url]

I think my GAS has been cured with my latest purchase - a 2005 CIJ vintage white mustang bass. But then again it would be nice to have a non-export mustang in california blue as well if I can order one from Japan...

[url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk"]WD Music[/url] or [url="http://www.auroraproject.co.uk"]Aurora Project[/url] should be able to make you one. If you don't mind drilling some extra holes in the bass body it should be easy to fit a standard fender replacement one from ebay, for example from [url="http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Drumdiscounter"]This[/url] seller.

At a hundred squid this bass will an absolute bargain for a southpaw that likes girly basses. [url="http://www.andertons.co.uk/acatalog/info_DR6330L.html"]http://www.andertons.co.uk/acatalog/info_DR6330L.html[/url] <-- This is a Pic of right-handed one I bought my 12 year-old one of these for xmas (right handed) at just over double the price of this one, which was still a bargain and she loves it.

I bet it seemed like a good idea at the time

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='131095' date='Jan 31 2008, 06:58 AM']spend the extra on a set of strings that will feel better, sound better and last longer - you won't replace them as often either, i bet.[/quote] +1 The younger me wouldn't have entertained the idea of spending anything like £30 on a set of strings, but these days whenever I get a new bass I put a set of TI jazz flats on. I've been using them for five years now and once they're on I haven't needed to change them on any of my basses.

It does look good on the page, but I think that's 2,500 [b][i]Marketing [/i][/b]Watts - There's no indication of whether the stated power rating is at 8 Ohms, 4 Ohms or even 2 Ohms, neither does it say if its peak or RMS.

[url="http://brandoniguitars.co.uk"]brandoniguitars.co.uk[/url]

I'd use Danish Oil - wipe on, wipe off. I did a telecaster body with it and didn't bother with any sanding or waxing and it came out great, just wiped on a couple of coats.

guns & daisys?

According to Ampeg.com For replacement parts Customers outside of the US and Canada must contact their local Mackie distributor to order spare and replacement parts. So that'll be LOUD Technologies Europe PLC Unit 1, Century Point, Halifax Road, Cressex Business Park High Wycombe England, HP12 3SL Phone: + 44 (0) 1494 557 398 Fax: + 44 (0) 1494 438 669 Email: [email protected] I can google

A Badass II would work on a jag with no drilling needed. You will need to file slots on the saddles or get a pre-slotted bridge. As for the neck dive its easier & cheaper to move the top strap button. I cured the dive on my thunderbird ([i]probably [/i]the worlds most neck-divingest bass) by moving the button to the neck heel area.

To check the intonation - Using an electronic tuner can you see if the harmonic over the 12th fret is exactly the same pitch as the fretted note at the 12th for each string? If not it needs setting up properly. Its definitely worth learning how to do your own setups as it really is money for old rope once you get the hang of it and understanding how everything interacts will enable you to set up your instrument exactly how you like it.

I quite fancy one of the 30" scale LPB jazzes - It'll make me look like I'm taller.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='129768' date='Jan 29 2008, 08:42 AM']Bolt neck, with threaded inserts and machine screws, gotta be the way, can do them up as tight as you like without stripping, anf you can adjust the action and everything.[/quote] I've often wondered why more manufacturers don't do this