BassBod

What Bill said, plus ebay may be worth a trawl. I’d be tempted to re-fit the cab with current Eminence products, but there will be some modelling and impedance to work through, and cost for 8 drivers.

Sounds like phase - swap the leads on the J and see...still might not be great, but could be better. Its worth remembering that in a normal J set, the pickups are designed to be humbucking when equal - so one is reverse wound (and magnetically reverse) to the other..regardless of what colour the wires are.

Always a good idea - we never seem to use the return socket (with switch in the signal path). In this case, can’t help thinking it’s probably worth going to another tech for diagnosis and fresh opinion.

LH 500 would be easy - it’s a standard 2u rack size...just take off the Hartke logo and bolt into any retro style case 😎. It will probably drive nicely, but you’ll need a high input level to make it growl (really designed for clean, but it’s a 12ax7 valve pre in the front)

In that case, be polite but persistent. Try Polar...but also get the "spec" of the part you need and search US suppliers. Its probably a board mounted pot, so its the exact size and pin location that matters. If you have to source from the US, then think about adding a second spare pot, or some knobs..or a handle to your order. The things that break or fall off! It will take some time, and cost a bit but probably worth it if you really like the amp.

Take it to a good tech...chances are very good that the correct value pot is available from many other sources. Even a quick evilbay search will probably turn up a few options (although US, most likely).

Two thoughts. The Hartle LH500 is essentially an old “Fender” preamp mated to a late 70’s style power amp. Not expensive, but worth a try. If it does the job put some vintage knobs on it and put it in an old style case. Or - get a powered cab, dress it up, and use a Sansamp VT for your sound (stage and DI for the PA). Both could work very well.

It’s an old system, originally for scientific /lab research, not rocknroll. My SWR’s make it more of an issue. They used aluminium cases for heat transfer, but it is more likely to get stressed by drops and tough handling - slight bends can be re-shaped, but only so many times. Also they punched the rack bolt holes to fit a 2u amp into a 3u space - to allow for air cooling. This makes a larger than normal gap at the bottom between amp and case. There really does need to be something (dense foam or wood) in that gap, especially with the heavier amps.

Oh yes, black paint is essential 😎

A simple wood block can be fixed under the back of the amp - I’ve used a skirting board off cut, Velcro’d onto the bottom of the case. Stops too much movement and stress to the front of the amp. My SWR power amp fell out of a van...

I paid something like £750 for it, eventually traded it for a lightly used Sadowsky...that I should’ve kept 😳. I think the Bass Centre commissioned quite a few Epics in the mid 90’s, which is why there are a few in circulation at sensible prices in the UK. Nice basses 😎

Looks like the one I had (traded on here several years ago). Lovely bass, if a bit weighty 😎

My memory of the Epic was get the right strings on it (DR Sunbeams for me) then get your sound with the pickup balance, then fine tune with on board eq. It really was very simple! Used mine in lots of different settings and it always worked for me. Didn’t always look right, but sounded great 😎

Lovely basses. It’s the clarity that you either love or don’t. There isn’t really an Alembic sound, it’s just the strings, and filters if you want them. Look out for an SF2 rack preamp - essentially the filters in a Series II Bass but in a 1u rack. Very expensive new, but they do sometimes come up used, and a lot cheaper.

Actually, I recently sent the amp in to them for a fan modification - it came back in the same bag (and same cardboard box) it went in. I’ll get another bag, eventually..probably the Gator version. Seems to be the right cost/quality balance. Been using one of their rack bags for ages, much better than others I’ve used before.

I bought one for my Retroglide, but the zipper on the cable pocket broke far too easily and quickly for the fairly light use it’s had. Not exactly impressed with that.

I’ve used thin brass sheet, cut to run under the bridge pickup, then wired to ground on one of the pots.

Yes, I was selling it (on behalf of the estate of a friend) but decided to keep it. Works nicely with the old AH150. Sounds great, but it’s very heavy for it’s small size.

One of these...

Two other options would be the Sadowksy circuit, and the related Aguilar OPB1. Neither are exactly copies of the Stingray design, but very much inspired by (the Aguilar being a later re-engineer by Alex Aguilar, who designed the Sadowsky). I’ve got both in external box versions, and they are very good...but the on board versions are pretty expensive, especially once fitted.

Also interested - I have a lovely bass with a Bartolini MM and an EMG expander circuit (that I really don’t like much). Thought about the Stinger, it appears to be a faithful but cheap copy...but does that make any real difference with small low power circuits?

Finally got around to talking to Ashdown last week about the loud fan in my Retroglide. Spoke to Dave Green..he thinks the fan is ok, but the amp should really be in a bigger case, but he said send it in and there were things that could be done. Got it back this morning, fan is much less intrusive now, and certainly won’t be heard even in very quiet situations. No charge, just the cost of posting the amp in. So much better than phoning retailers/distribution and getting passed around...in one call I spoke to someone that knew exactly what was inside my amp 😎

Yep, it’s the smaller AH150 GP7 I’d guess ‘82-84. Probably has a date sticker inside somewhere. Still very useable, although worth a complete health check on an amp that old (that might have been sitting around for a few years).