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threedaymonk

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Everything posted by threedaymonk

  1. [quote name='Musashimonkey' timestamp='1483657200' post='3209160'] Surely a shim is to replace too much material removed? Had the design tolerances been more accurate you wouldn't need one... [/quote] It's really to change the pitch of the neck, which can't be affected by a manufacturing process based on cutting flat shapes with a router. If everything else were flat, the trigonometry would be straightforward and this wouldn't be an issue, but neck relief pushes the nut end higher. You could compensate for this by lowering the bridge, but the exact amount depends on the setup, and there are mechanical limits to how thin the bridge can be. The other solution is to change the pitch of the neck. This could be done by routing the neck pocket at a slight angle, but it's simpler, easier and more flexible to use a shim at this point. The ability to finely adjust neck pitch so that the bridge saddles are all at a happy level given individual preferences of neck relief and action is a convenient feature of bolt-on necks. It's much harder to get things right on a through-neck, as you can read about [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/295059-bc-rich-mockingbird-tweaks/"]on this Mockingbird repair thread[/url].
  2. In my experience, any bass with a plank neck (i.e. Fender design) will need a shim if you want a low action. My '95 Stingray has one (but I don't know if that's original). I had to add one to my '09 American Standard Jazz to get the bridge screws to a sensible, non-palm-shredding height. My Spector 6-string doesn't have one, but the bridge is routed several mm into the body. I've always seen the need for a shim as an inevitable consequence of the Fender design. I've never encountered any problems, and I'm inclined to think that if that's all it takes to get a good bridge height, I'm pretty content.
  3. I really want to know more details about this: How was it cut? How much do you have to allow for the thickness of the chrome plating around the holes? Did you have to fettle it before plating? How much does all this cost?
  4. I briefly owned an Aria 5-string that was effectively a factory converted 4: the neck was Precision dimensions, and the bridge spacing was 15 mm, i.e. 60 rather than 57 mm in total. The strings were uncomfortably close to the fret ends, before you ask.
  5. Price drop! £350 I'm a little sad to let this go: it was my first B string, and I nursed it back to health from the state I bought it in. However, as my flat is beginning to resemble Denmark Street, I need to make some tough choices! First things first: this is a Spector Q6 Pro bass, made in Korea. It's in the fabulous but nigh-impossible to photograph adequately holoflash finish. It weighs 4.8 kg (10 lbs 9 oz) so not a featherweight, but maybe not too bad for a 6-string. 35" scale. String spacing is 17 mm at the bridge. The neck is 54 mm wide at the nut. Pickups are EMG Hz, and the controls are vol-vol-bass-treble. It's currently fitted with Schaller strap-lock buttons: I'll supply the original buttons as well/instead, as desired. When I bought this, it had a crack on the headstock where the B string tuner screw had split the wood. There were also a few dings on the neck. I repaired the crack and stripped and finished the neck with Tru-Oil, blending into the headstock. It's a good match with the original finish, and the repair and refinish is effectively invisible. The repair has held for years, so I'm confident that it's good. There are a few small dings on the body, but it's hard to see anything on the holoflash finish, and harder still to photograph them! This can be tried out and collected in Rotherhithe, south-east London (SE16). I'll throw in a slightly tatty Kinsman semi-hard (firm?) case. I can post it within the UK at cost.
  6. This is a great, powerful and compact combo, but it's still a bit too large for my (flat-dwelling) needs. As I've picked up the 12" version from Paul S of this parish, I need to move this one on. It's from a pet- and cigarette-free home (and the same was true of the previous owner). It's in excellent condition, bar a little dust which you can see in the photo! Collection only from Rotherhithe, south-east London (SE16). I might be persuaded to deliver it within an hour or so's drive for the cost of petrol. Technical details etc.: [url="http://www.markbass.it/product_detail.php?id=71"]http://www.markbass....etail.php?id=71[/url]
  7. I drove out to Essex to pick up the Markbass CMD121P from Paul. I enjoyed a coffee and a chat and a play on his Sterling 5! Great communication, and all straightforward throughout.
  8. [quote name='scalpy' timestamp='1482832428' post='3202912'] A student of mine had an M series tribute. It was ridiculously good, nothing comes close for value. Other products at that price point all feel like there's a corner cut somewhere but that bass was like the Subaru Impreza STI of guitars, giant killer! [/quote] As far as I can see, there's one little corner cut on the Tribute M versus US: the ¼" socket. The Tribute has one of those long threaded cylindrical sockets, whereas the US version has a normal socket (Switchcraft?) mounted on a plate. The former is a bit more prone to failure and can't be fixed in the field by bending!
  9. When I first tried learning to slap, after I'd been playing for a couple of years, I couldn't get anywhere. I gave up. One day about three months later, I decided to try again and found that I could already do it! Since then, when learning all kinds of things, I've found that breaks for consolidation can be as important as the active part. Slapping's not something I generally choose to do, and I curse the ear-splitting bang-clatter-bang of the people at bass guitar shows, but it's kind of fun, and it's a useful skill, especially when playing 80s musicals [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgc_LRjlbTU"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgc_LRjlbTU[/url]
  10. Here's mine, put together in 2007. Body: early 90s Encore (which I had already). Plenty of dings and buckle rash. Under the factory black paint, there's a layer of red, which gives it some interesting road wear. Neck: off some low-end Squier. It cost me £22 off Fleabay, but was in a horrible state, filthy, with the lacquer worn away, and with plenty of chips. I stripped it, filled the chips and dings, and refinished it with satin polyurethane. Despite everything, it's perfectly straight and plays wonderfully. Pickup: second-hand Artec Alnico V, £11.50 from the bay. Add to that a generic high-mass bridge, a mint green scratchplate, and some decent pots and knobs, and it plays and sounds great.
  11. In my case, it looks lovely, but I've got far too many basses! I prefer my other Yamaha fretless, so when I had an offer to buy this one, I took it.
  12. Simon got in touch about buying the Chocolate Orange off me. He was very patient while I put together things to ship it, and paid promptly when I was ready. A pleasure doing business!
  13. If I'd seen this earlier, I'd happily have sold it to you. It's just gone to osborne900.
  14. I love this kind of thing. My grandpa was a joiner, and used to sharpen his own tools - even his saws. He boiled his own glue from fish bones, too!
  15. fleabag, it seems to depend. I have a UK Paypal account and can send gift payments to other people with UK accounts, but I can't to some other countries: Israel, for example. It seems to depend on the country. If you have a UK account and fund it via your bank account or Paypal balance, gift payments are still free.
  16. I bought Jon's Marshal Jackhammer pedal. It came the next day, well packaged.
  17. I think they might just be PTFE (teflon) washers, which come in a whole range of sizes for a few pennies each.
  18. Another happy customer! Excellent communication, and the pedal arrived well packaged and in excellent condition. It took exactly a week from Hungary to the UK.
  19. [quote name='jamondrums' timestamp='1376196562' post='2170669'] [color=#0000FF]MOBILE USERS...THEY'RE HOSTED ON FLICKR SO YOU NEED TO VIEW THEM ON YOUR MAC/LAPTOP.[/color] [/quote] That's not really necessary: here's a link that will let you see them on anything: [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/93253425@N03/sets/72157634936594560"]http://www.flickr.com/photos/93253425@N03/sets/72157634936594560[/url]
  20. That control cavity is a work of art in itself. Lovely attention to detail.
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