MichaelDean

The Bass Buddha shop in Denmark confirmed in their Instagram stories that it was an import super PJ.

You'll normally have to buy a whole board from a timber merchant and they tend to charge by the foot length of the board. It probably won't be too expensive to buy though. Tends to be a lot cheaper than a blank for the amount of wood you get. Just take a saw so you can fit it all in the car!

Apolgies if you don't need this. Thought it might be useful just in case. For most standard active basses, you will generally need a stereo jack socket, otherwise known as TRS (tip, ring sleeve). The usual wiring tends to be that the tip is the signal, ring is the negative battery, sleeve is ground. When you then plug in a normal mono jack cable, it grounds the battery (as there isn't a ring on the mono cable), completing the circuit and turning on the preamp. If it isn't clear which solder tabs are which, you can usually follow the bit of metal you're looking at to work it out. Or, if you have one, use a multimeter to check for continuity between the tabs and connectors.

There's no reason to stick with the square plastic type just because that's what is currently in there. I'd aslo go with a Pure Tone stereo jack. It would be an upgrade over the stock one. https://www.armstrongmusic.co.uk/electronics-and-pickups-c17/jack-sockets-c46/pure-tone-multi-contact-1-4-output-jack-stereo-p13440 https://www.wmguitars.com/products/pure-tone-stereo-multi-contact-1-4-output-jack-nickel

Reviving this thread. We practice in the live room of a studio. We're recording there next weekend and I took my cab (a Zilla Bass Fatboy 212), so I can leave it there with my amp to make logistics next week a bit easier. There's an Ashdown 810 that lives in the room, so I don't normally take my cab. Might need to start bringing mine more regularly... I love that thing. Sounded loads better. Deeper, more detailed, more focused - just better all round. Shame the vocalist/second guitarist hasn't been able to make it for the last three weeks though. He's had all sorts of illnesses from his kids going back to school. Not the most helpful time for him to be missing practices, but at the same time, I don't really want what he's had!

I don't hate the idea of that. Not sure about the execution or price though! The bridge cover looks a bit weird. Doesn't cover the whole bridge, which looks to be a Kluson copy of the Fender high mass bridge...

This is amazing. Loving the updates!

I think the reason that pickups are tilted on most multiscale instruments is to even out the tone you get from string to string. Otherwise, you could get the lower strings sounding different tonally from the higher strings. Whether or not that is an issue may well depend on the positioning, the pickups themselves and the intended tone. It's definitely possible that you'll have an issue with angling pickups that are intended to be straight. I can't explain it after a couple of holiday beers, but try holding a standard pickup over the strings of your Dingwall and then angle it and see what happens. It might be worth building a test body with a swimming pool rout so you can try the different angles and find out which pickups work angled/straight.

There is such a long list of basses I'd like to try (just saw a Dunable bass that caught my eye...). Plus a fair few skinny stringers. I'm happy with my effects/amp/cab situation though. Can't see any of that needing to change anytime soon.

You can try out the Helix Native plugin for 15 days as well to see if it might be the right flavour of multi-fx/moddler for you. https://uk.line6.com/helix/helixnative.html

I guess there's the GSS Sumo range and there's the GR Bass Pure range. Seems like quite a small offering though.

I'm still in!

Just also to say, the only reason I've ever put a high mass bridge on any bass is because the BBOT doesn't normally have grooves to hold the saddles in place. If you hit hard with a pick, it's possible to knock them out of alignment, which makes the whole thing sound a bit out of tune. I haven't noticed any tonal difference from swapping bridges.

I'm not saying that I need a high mass bridge, and I can indeed get the sustain I need from my Dingwall. I'm just saying that I do want all of the sustain. Just that one point was what I was countering.

I do! What if I want a note to ring out for 2/4/8/16 bars? I need the sustain for the music I play. I don't want a thumpy tone of flats and foam. Never have. Not sure if I'd even want to play the music that needs that tone.

No, I wouldn't! There's a fair mass of wood the other end. I've just heard that on a strap it can feel like a fair old stretch to the first fret. I look forward to seeing it in person!

Oooooh, nice! I hear they're a pig ergonimically, but they look fun!

I forgot the well known but not often used wood clue. A Korina Explorer or Flying V?

Ooooh, a Starcaster bass?

That's a pretty open first clue! There are a lot of basses that aren't available new... Epiphone Thunderbird Vintage Pro in white?

Yeah, that's amazing! Thanks for sharing!

A luthier told me the other day that you can delicately wick a bit of low viscosity super glue into the hole for the strap button screws and it'll strengthen the wood, helping to prevent it from tearing out. Then, as above, a bit of thread lock should stop any movement.

I've got some on my keys that then go everywhere with me. They came in a little cylinder with a keyring on it.

I quite like the effect in the verse. Gives it a different texture. I wouldn't use it anywhere else in any other songs that you're planning on releasing at the same time though. I reckon it's a one song only sort of a thing.

I've never had enough pedals to build different boards for each gig! Sounds like it could be a fun way to do it as long as it doesn't bring an extra element of pre-gig panic.