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Everything posted by Kiwi
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[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1415316299' post='2599259'] Smith is the epitome of 'modern' to me and nothing sounds like them...altho' I've gotten ball park with a Sei Flamboyant. If you want that Smith sound, it just has to be a Smith but if you don't, there isn't really anything else you can do with the bass, IMO. I've gone off signature sounding basses..or rather, all variations of, as I am in the 'Leo got it right with a Jazz' vibe these days... [/quote] Most of the sound comes from the neck (which is deliberately built not to be super stiff but still has a very thick ebony fingerboard for stability) and the pickups which are humbuckers with both coils in parallel. Ironically the closest thing out there in terms of sound at the moment is a Peavey Cirrus but they don't give as much low end richness as the Smiths.
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Great thread - I started out on Cubase and found it easy to use. Then when I got back into recording, I switched to Pro Tools as I thought it was an industry standard and struggled with its MIDI functionality. It's just not set up for ease of MIDI use. So I tend to think of it as an audio editor primarily (which is what it is) with some MIDI functionality...but basically get the MIDI into audio ASAP if you want to have an easy life. I've also struggled with Ableton for some reason although maybe I just don't know it very well yet.
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Fodera barely make 10% on each instrument. Criticise their price if you need to but their materials and staff benefits (healthcare, pension) costs are a major part of why they cost what they do. Got nothing to do with screwing people over. It's expensive to employ people in New York. Huge difference between Smiths and Foderas in sound and feel BTW. I've had three Smiths.
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Depends on the design of the amp and whether you are intending to thrash the proverbial out of it.
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Jesus, some of you complaining about the weight need to gig with a Hartke 4.5XL for a while. We're spoiled these days and the Triad was a lightweight for its time.
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DPD have a system in place that gives you an hour's warning ahead of their delivery via SMS. I'd be asking questions about why that wasn't in effect.
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sh*t that sounds like a bit of a tragedy. I was born in Fareham. You can post stuff in the classifieds if you sign up to either a one off fee or a yearly subscription. The costs are modest.
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You can only arrive at a sound that works for you after you understand what influence each part of the signal chain brings to the tone. Strings Wood (or whatever makes up the neck, fingerboard and body) Pickups onboard preamp (effects signal chain which could be any old stuff) preamp power amp speaker(s) room acoustics (including stage resonance) Experience enough variations in each of the above, then you'll know what works. For me to get my sound...through neck with enough wenge tempered by maple or the same spec but bolt on with enough mahogany in the body...some addtional parp around 250hz via a preamp and the rest is gravy.
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If you don't want it, I'll take it.
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Fantastic standalone cab, mine was series 1 and had 15" and 10" plus tweeter. For a non neo cab it's also relatively light. The fuses for the tweeter are automotive supplied so a pop now and then is no big deal. Very honest sound though, if you get your colouring from another part of your signal chain, you'll be fine.
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Looks like its a Mark IV...? One of the hand made jobbies.
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[quote name='Bilbo' timestamp='1414580283' post='2590848'] Do you reckon if I offered him a signed photo of me and a bag of toffees, he might let it go? [/quote] Only if either were worth the asking price Seriously though, I'm confident that he'd be open to negotiation. You'd have one hell of a bass.
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Serious Question To Those Who Use A Full Stack
Kiwi replied to MindGoneBlank's topic in Amps and Cabs
A stack can be justified with a low power valve head - for example a Bassman 135. You'll get decent frequency response at reasonable volume levels. I used my Burman 140w with an ampeg 4x10 and 1x15 stack and it easily kept up with guitar through a 50w valve combo. But for anything above 200w its total over kill for all the reasons stated above. -
Ashdown MK500 Mark King Signature Head - SOLD
Kiwi replied to Snook's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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I've played it too. Surprisingly easy to orientate around the seventh string and that part almost feels like a long scale guitar. The action is super, super low. Martin makes some of the best necks in the world IMO. Its been in the shop for over a year though.
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Two Shuttle 6.0's. Why mess about when the design works so well...? I like the unscooped mids and 600w is more than enough for any situation. There's extra oomph available if needed although I don't need a booming amp for small stages. Plus the size is great as well as the weight.
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Most of the manufacturers that I can think of who have offered valve amps in their product line up, have tended to offer heads rather than cabs. Ashdown is an exception as has already mentioned but the following may also be worth considering: Mesa Boogie Buster 200 tiltback combo (they are extremely heavy though) Trace Elliot Twin Trace Elliot V4 (arguably one of the rarest valve bass amps in existence) Behringer Bugera line Ashdown 220 Matamp is also worth considering if you are inclined to have something custom made and can afford it.
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I'd go for what I'll end up with in a couple of weeks. A Zoom B3 into two GB Shuttle 6's into two Fearless F112's. Its about as compact, lightweight and punchy as I can imagine without compromising.
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They [url="http://www.rosetti.co.uk/Product/HagstromNorthenSeriesSuperSwedeBass?catId=1e747437-2db4-4a43-839a-25df0b4a62e7"]reissued[/url] their Super Swede copy of a jazz bass a few years back, the same one used by Rutger Gunnarsson in Abba. I'd be really keen to try one as it sounded great when used on some of their recordings.
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[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1414147645' post='2586364'] I don't think there is a one size fits all answer. [/quote] My favourite drummers will play the hi hat on the beat and play the snare and bass drum behind the beat. It creates more space in the pocket for the bass...so more opportunity to play expressively with the beat. [quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1414142389' post='2586289'] They make everyone else sound good by knitting it all together. [/quote] Yeah but not by compensating for crap playing though. You'll end up roughly in time but the song will lack feel and dynamics...it won't sound tight and smooth
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What songs have simple but effective rhythm guitar?
Kiwi replied to Annoying Twit's topic in Guitars
Anything with Nile Rodgers or Keith Richards in it. -
I've used it for percussion too. You just have to develop a feel for one revolution and feel at any given point where the wheel is. Sometimes I'll move my head around very slightly in a circle as I'm playing just to help with the visualisation.
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I've been visualising it using a rotating wheel for many years. The wheel sits on a circular back plate and is marked in one place. A full rotation/revolution of the wheel is achieved in one bar. Where I need to play each note rhythmically is marked on the back plate. When the mark on the wheel meets the mark on the back plate, I play a note. If I want to imagine playing ahead of the beat, the wheel keeps spinning in my imagination but I play the note exactly the same distance before the mark on the wheel reaches the mark on the back board. If I want to play behind the beat, I'll wait until the mark on the wheel has passed the mark on the back board and then play at exactly the same distance in each bar.
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A major project - renovating a Trace Elliot V4 15" combo
Kiwi replied to basexperience's topic in Amps and Cabs
IF this is the black tolex covered version rather than the green carpet, you have VERY lucky find. Only something like 25 of the head only versions exist. I had an opportunity to buy a V4 combo in pretty battered shape but functional (barely) shape back in 2008 but didn't have the time or inclination to restore it for what the guy was asking. Best of luck with the renovation though and you're right about the weight. -
[quote name='molan' timestamp='1414012545' post='2584927'] I've owned both Euro and US Spectors and always thought the US ones were significantly better than the Euros. Better finished, nicer woods and colours and had more punch to the core sound. [/quote] I never bothered with US Spectors NS5's when there are 20 year old NS5CR's knocking around that are identical apart from the fingerboard and control layout. They're much sweeter sounding bass without the EMG electronics too.