pete.young

Phil Jones Briefcase can be fitted with an internal battery which will give about 60 minutes playing. It's a heavy little chap even without the battery. You can also run one from a much bigger battery with some phono leads, but now we're talking serious trolley.

Just 'Heart Of Glass' then.

I couldn't find any useable synth sounds in the Bass Synth Wah, but the octaver was really good. I got fairly close to this with a Korg G5. The Zsynth patch in the Zoom pedals is supposedly a clone of the G5, so an MS-60B or Zoom B1-4 patch with that effect in it might be a starting point. You'd probably want to add some fairly severe EQ in front of it to make it track and trigger properly, which would make the dry signal sound a bit weird.

Bill Wyman hated his Vox Wyman signature bass and refused to play it. I agree with him, I had one once and it was a festering heap of wombat dues.

There would be no point in paying Parcelforce for extra insurance. They'll take your money, but musical instruments are explicitly excluded in their Ts & Cs.

It depends on the loop. If it's a parallel loop, you're only going to modulate a portion of the signal (usually 50%, unless there's a blend control). If you have an effect that you want to apply to the entire signal, compression being a prime example, and a parallel loop, you'd need to put that in front of the amp to get the desired outcome. The other thing to consider is that some effects loops are designed for studio-type effects which run a line voltage. If you have pedals which run at instrument-level voltage, they might not work the same way as you expect.

Yeah, you need to read Billy Bragg's skiffle book.

Got to be stolen, surely?

This is not a good idea. Better to develop the tuner between your ears.

I was going to say the same thing BreadBin, the fingerboard dots are in the wrong place. And what is going on with that terminal block?

Eagle Music have some alternatives. https://www.eaglemusicshop.com/mandolin-machine-heads-tuners

My 10-string bouzouki is a Jimmy Moon, 640mm scale. I use either DGDAD or DADAD, capoed at 3 for F , 5 for G and 7 for A. Also in pairs, experimented with octaves but didn't like the end result.

Something like this, you mean?

Good luck with that, hope it goes well. LMR has an odtave guitar on it too, I'd love to have a go on one of those.

Akord Kvint is made in Luby in Chechia, not Poland. This is an area of Chechia with a long history of making orchestral stringed instruments. http://www.akordkvint.com/kontakty/ Your Stentor has laminated back and sides. I can't tell from the descriptions of Akord Kvint instruments whether they are all solid wood, but the price would indicate it. A luthier-made solid wood bass would be an upgrade. The UK agent is Forsyth's Music in Manchester, you could try talking to them about it. The only ARS MUSIC model I can find though is a 1/8th size - is this really what you want?

I did this for many years: except for the hard case. If it looked like rain I'd tie a tarpaulin over the top to keep the water out. Transported a 5-piece bluegrass band from Canterbury to London and back for a gig. So I would say a bass in a hard case tied down in a roof box will be absolutely fine. The only risk is that the amount of stuff you need to take will expand to fill the roof box, so you will end up taking a load more crap with you. Make sure the bass goes in first 🙂

That seems very reasonable. In the folk music world, Hobgobln charges 30% and Eagle Music 33% for commission sales.

I thik the scale length is the same in those two pics. In the second one, the bridge is nearer the body, but the 24th fret is much closer to the chamfer. Not sure if this is a optical illusion or if the whole lot got moved at some time in the run. The TRB 5PII was definitely 35".

How did I manage to forget Two Tribes?

Under Pressure. Although that's only one bar! Get Lucky Treasure Papa Don't Preach

The latency with g2m and b2m is pretty horrible, and you need to be very clean in technique. I found that EQ-ing all the bass out of the signal helped a bit.

I think you would be fine to run the J-Retro off the existing battery. John East would tell you for sure, but I think the drain on the battery is going to be a handful of milliamps and probably a lot less than the LEDs. Even if you have to change the battery twice as frequently as you normally do, it's still a lot easier than changing an extra one in the control cavity. I'd give it a go. If it doesn't work, you can go back and install the one in the control cavity. Assuming there's room for it of course. If you have to rout it out to make more space, definitely try the single battery first.