pete.young

It looks remarkably similar to this one: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/241620-bass-mods-7-string-jazz-bass-with-hard-case-kent-armstrong-pickups/

I could use some pointers to troubleshoot a non-working pedal. Pedal is a PedalParts Blue Fool MXR Blue Box clone. Everything is in the right place, electrolytic is in the right way round, ICs ditto . Diodes check out with my multimeter so haven't been fried. Wired it up without the foot switch so the circuit is permanently on and tried it with a guitar and amp. Signal is very weak but just about audible, so quiet that it's hard to tell if there's any distortion or not. I'm guessing there's a dry joint somewhere, but nothing looks wrong to my not-very-well trained eye. I have the link to the audio probe at diy-fever.com from earlier in this thread and I will build one. Is the capacitance value in the probe critical? I have some spares but not the exact value as used in the diagram of the probe. Any other helpful tips for dealing with it, particularly to tell if there is a problem with the ICs?

A G7 capo is expensive on the face of it, but worth every penny. It's the only one Ive ever come across that doesn't seem to affect the tuning of a guitar.

We all make mistakes from time to time, however long we've been playing and however much we practice. I find it helps to recognise that, not to dwell on mistakes, just let them go, smile and move on to the next phrase, keep the disruption to a minimum. If it pigeon craps on your head, there's no point reaching for the toilet paper - it'll be miles away before you can wipe it's bum!

Some useful info on fender Japan serial numbers can be found in a thread called Quick Fender Japan Question on this forum. I can't work out how to cut and paste the URL on this poxy tablet, sorry. If it's an A plus 6 digit MIJ it's 85-86. If CIJ, its 99-02. The best way to be sure is to take the neck off and see if it is dated. Not that it matters, it looks like a great bass in n very good condition for a very decent price. Well done.

A doorstop, the kind you screw into the floor, has been known to work well, depends what size your endpin is.

Sometimes you get a bit more clarity with a tapered b string.

Bought my old MS60B back from Cliff - another pleasant and excellent transaction, and he's taken very good care of it over the last few months! Thanks Cliff.

Looks like a mahogany neck. Chances are that the two broken halves will mesh back together and can be glued and clamped. I've got a mandolin which has had this repair, though it was done by a proper luthier, and it's fine. You will need to take off all the furniture, the truss rod cover and the headstock veneer in order to get the two halves to mesh together properly. I'd have to say that a skip is the correct place for an EKO 12-string, with or without a cracked headstock :-)

What's this doing in General Discussion? Seems to me that it belongs in off-topic.

Looks similar to this, but much cheaper: http://www.kolberg.com/products/en_GB/332/product/1746.html

I'd look out for a Bass Collection SGC Nanyo - should be able to pick up a fretless for less than £150.

I ended up with a Vintage VE300: solid spruce top, Fishman electrics, nicely finished and a nice clear bright acoustic sound. £189 from a local dealer who also has an internet business and was happy to price match himself!

Bryan Ferry's band are immense. Especially drums and the bassist with his Status Vintage. Great job guys.

[quote name='Monckyman' timestamp='1403738608' post='2485910'] Not good for digital desks. [/quote] Our keyboard player has taken to using an UPS for his keyboard - if the power does trip for any reason the keyboard stays up and doesn't reboot (which takes a couple of minutes). Might be worth thinking about this for digital desks too - we have an analog desk so it never occurred to me to try it. We run as much through the PA as possible (ie everything except the drums). If you have an electronic kit, better still. It might be quiet but at least it's controllable.

I had a set of Neon Greens on my Bass Collection, took them off after a year but there was still a bit of life left in them. I'd say they're similiar to Sunbeams. It's not an issue if a bit of the colour wears off - just use a highlighter pen to put it back.

Thanks Matt, I will see if any of the local 'stockists' have any in stock.

Oli Foxen used to do this kind of thing. Not sure what happened to him, don't think he's posted here for a while.

[quote name='jgmh315' timestamp='1402337914' post='2472412'] [url="http://www.guitarbitz.com/guitars-c48/electro-acoustic-guitars-c82/ashton-acb100ceq-electro-acoustic-bass-p1982"]http://www.guitarbit...stic-bass-p1982[/url] [/quote] That appears to be a link to an acoustic bass. I'm looking for a guitar. [quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1402346960' post='2472560'] For a few quid more, the Ibanez Talman range is amazing. Worth a look. [url="http://www.ibanez.co.jp/products/ag_series14.php?series_id=91&area_id=3&year=2014&cat_id=3"]http://www.ibanez.co...r=2014&cat_id=3[/url] [/quote] Nice idea, but I need something that looks a bit more traditional.

So, I have a new gig playing a bit of upright bass and a bit of acoustic guitar in an old-time band. We had a festival gig last weekend and I took my guitar. It's a Fylde that I bought in 1977, and it's more important to me than any of my other instruments. It doesn't have a pickup, and I spent most of the time crapping myself worrying about it getting damaged, overheated in the sun, tripped over by drunks etc. I'm now thinking that I need something less expensive, more disposable and with electronics built-in. Thoman have a Harley Benton model, solid spruce top, rosewood back, sides and fingerboard, mahogany neck, Fishman electronics for £180, which is the same price that Wunjo's quoted to fit a pickup to my Fylde. Anyone have any experience of the more expensive end of the Harley Benton guitar range? I guess it's pretty low risk with their returns policy, I can send it back at not much cost if it turns out to be a dog.