Immo

Today it's easier to:[list] [*]Obtain an instrument [*]Build a set of gear that will bring exactly the sound one would want [*]Find an idol or inspiration [*]Find a teacher and/or learning materials [*]Fix or mod your gear [*]Play anywhere [/list] More difficult to:[list] [*]Not copy anyone [*]Master all the techniques [*]Decide which bass to buy [*]Spend time training playing skills instead of lurking on the bassist web forum [*]Own just one bass [*]Keep it simple [/list]

Beautiful bass! And it looks like the Tele-shaped headstock mod is quite possible to do with it as well and I instantly thought about some lipstick pickups on it. Petty tempted, but I won't buy one in Poland, unfortunately.

I was hyper-enthusiastic about Squier VM Telecaster Bass Special, but when I finally got my hands on one (in music store), it was a huge disappointment. Uncomfortable neck, not too impressive sound, mediocre finish. About the basses I bought, it was always lucky to buy something that was even better than I expected.

The Ramones. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maS68s9jpYo[/media]

On Basoofka.net we have a possibility to enter a piece of gear into system and record it's S/N. Nice feature. However, writing down my bike's S/N haven't helped me with recovering it.

You want to have 4 pickups in one bass? You must be aware of some serious wiring issues, comb filtering effect (pickups dampening each other because of generating similar frequencies) and other problems. In general, to insure proper sound, you can run two PUs at once. Some time ago I was wondering about a 3+ PU configuration, but now I know about the problems it can deliver. Besides, each pickup = magnetic force at work with the metal in strings, which means a slight sustain reduction. It's better to have two tonally different basses than turning one into a 3+ pickup platform. I bought an Encore P-Bass copy and [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/223971-immo-custom-shopencore-twinsplit-p-bass/"]modded it by adding a second split coil PU[/url]. It added to versatility and tone. Adding another PU would only complicate things. For muddy tones I have my Tele bass with neck humbucker. [b][/b]

Most of the bands I now love I discovered with video games. As video games are often considered "wrong" and many people get really pi**ed by YouTube comments like "GTA San Andreas brought me here" under Boston's "Smokin", I may say that I discovered a lot of bands for wrong reasons

Yup, it's an early Blazer alright. [quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1390392156' post='2344788'] If you look at this it shows a Cimar one that looks very similar ( Cimar were an Ibanez brand I think) from 1980 [/quote] Yes, Cimar was sort of an Ibanez'es knock-off company, a Squier of sorts.

I was considering a PJ bass some time ago, but hearing about some balancing issues and other fuss made me think more practically (and aesthetically). The result is my PP bass. I consider the effect well worthy as two matched type pickups together deliver a real change of tone and they really do the trick when they work together with volume maxed. Consider that mod also out of vanity - there aren't that many PP's around If you'd need a wiring diagram, here's mine (A500K pot for tone might be better):

[quote name='Si600' timestamp='1390310710' post='2343833'] '68 GT, in green, like the one in Bullitt [/quote] I'd go with 65' Fastback with Cammer S plant in dark graphite blue w/ white stripes, but yours is nice as well

Okay, she's finally fixed. My buddy and I took a soldering iron and a lot of determination and we finally forged a properly working electronics. [quote name='Shockwave' timestamp='1388495917' post='2322631'] Switch the bridge pickups wires with each other.[/quote] Bingo! Middle pickup is connected normally. Bridge pickup's polarity is reversed: original hot wire is connected to the ground and original ground wire to the VOL pot's middle terminal. That pot's hot input and hot output terminal was also connected by matching capacitor and resistor (treble bleed filter) and the bass works as she should. Really love all of the tones. Two pickups at once give a nice midrange honky sound with a lots of MM's punchiness. The bridge PU itself brings a nice, clean and glassy sound. I love that bass. Now I only need a new set of strings. I strung it with the strings the bass came to me with: they were nearly new when the bass was left alone by previous owner for a year or so, so they're bright sounding and punchy, yet covered with rust. But still, they're better than a set of flatwounds I bought - it has the muddy and dull E, but manufactured will send me a replacement set. Those guys GHS are decent blokes. EDIT: Current, great working wiring: When I get my hands on a decent A500K pot, I'll try to use it as a tone pot to check whether the effects are any better.

Mk.2 4 string fretted = the best overall sounding bass in my book. Congrats!

I paused my career in music when I realised I have other goals. I like playing, but when I was in my first (and last up to today) band, I found out they treat everything very serious, they dropped out of school to play and wanted to be world famous rock stars, while I only wanted to have some fun and some enjoyment. I know I'll never make a career other than "he is a famous writer and game designer; sometimes he plays with a band purely for fun".

[quote name='Jonnyboy Rotten' timestamp='1389353187' post='2333113'] How did you get the embedded screws out in the end? I got the same issue with my Squier P build and have had several very helpful suggestions but want to have as many options as poss when I come around to doing it! [/quote] Two screws broke: - One on the "neck side" of the bridge (it was broken 1-2mm below the body level and I left it there as it wasn't necessary to mount the bridge on the "neck side"). - One on the bent side - and it was broken 1mm above the body level, so I used pliers and carefully and slowly unscrewed it. Nothing fancy.

BUMP! on my question about the wiring, today I'm gonna resolder the electronics and I need to know, how to do this

[quote name='FlatEric' timestamp='1388669066' post='2324543'] (...) I now leave then in phase, in series - [b]which is how your is now[/b] and use the Vol and Tone controls. (...) [/quote] Are you sure mine ain't in parallel?

Fix the Tokai, most definitely. Those are great basses and they deserve to be in good working order.

I may be a pervert, but I like it. It's unique, but not weird and I dig it

Apart from the fact that the schematic shows a push/pull volume pot, is it a correct wiring for what I'm trying to achieve?

[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1388937142' post='2327804'] On the theme of "Signature basses that don't exist that should do" , , what about signature basses that [i]do[/i] exist that shouldn't? [/quote] All those sigs that look and sound just like a widely manufactured basses. I understand (and admire) a sig that has major custom features like reverse headstock and no pickguard and control plate on Dusty Hill's Fender bass, but a signature that's just a CAD P-Bass with Badass bridge and SD pickup or just a body decal/custom pattern on scratchplate is silly - you pay more for a signature on a headstock.

Beautiful neck & neat body grain, congrats!

Klaus Flouride's legendary JB. Package should include strap, DK car sticker and a small jar of blood to stain the pickguard.

[quote name='BetaFunk' timestamp='1388667629' post='2324509'] [size=3][b][url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&section=findpost&pid=2322129"][/url]BetaFunk, on 30 December 2013 - 10:10 PM, said:[/b][/size] [size=3]All the above apart from the neck. Mine had the thickest neck i've ever seen on a bass. It was not only chunky in width but also in depth. A strange beast indeed.[/size] Of course it's a matter of preference but i think that you've missed my point. The neck on my 1990s Encore was much thicker and like no P Bass i've ever seen or played. [/quote] OK, right. But that's weird, mine is just fine, 8/10 in terms of comfort, while regular Mex P-Bass I'd consider to be 7/10. I'm mainly a fan of Japanese Fender P-Bass necks (I have a 90's '57 RI and Sting Bass necks and both are the most comfy necks ever - 10/10). So, considering that the same model bass should have similar (if not identical) parameters, that's why I said it's probably based on preference

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1388670357' post='2324558'] I would go for option B! A - out of phase just sounds bad. B - sounds cool on a Jazz so should do here too. C - possibly but you already have a volume control. D - sounds like a good idea, but I reckon it would make it sound too bright and thin - it will sound bright enough as it is with the 500K pots. [/quote] Cool, as my thoughts were similar. The B option is a neat vision - may sound as a sort of a... errr... "quadrobucker", I'd say.

[quote name='Shockwave' timestamp='1388495917' post='2322631'] Switch the bridge pickups wires with each other. [/quote] Ok, I'll try switching the wires, that may help... But anyway, right now I'm considering ordering a balance/blend pot with PUSH-PUSH switch (my entrusted shop has only blend pots with that switch, so I'd give it a whirl) whenever my salary arrives. Will rewire everything to V-B-T configuration with PUSH-PUSH wired either to be: [b]a. [/b]a quick phase reversal switch [b]b. [/b]series/parallel switch [b]c. [/b]on/off switch for an entire bass [b]d.[/b] tone pot bypass Dunno which option would be the best. Either way, first I'll check whether the whole PU configuration would work correctly in V-B-T. Will keep you guys posted.