bertbass

It dosen't bend as well as a 105 which to me is a bonus. I've been using the 110s for so long now that it's hard to remember what it was like before, however, I've been using the freebie Rotosound set I received to try out and to be honest I've not noticed a lot of difference in feel but this is on another bass so it's not really a true trial. I do remember being amazed at the time how much better the sound was on the E string, in fact on all the strings. I do hit the strings pretty hard and with a pick which may explain a few things and also being a different make of string may be the difference. My lovely lady, Mrs Bert, bought me 3 sets of D'Addario steel wirewounds strings, 45-105 as a christmas present but I didn't like them, too bright and not enough "note" so I exchanged them for Elite Stadium 45-105 steel wirewounds and these seem good as well although again on a different bass. I still prefer the 50-110 though so I'll go back to them as soon as I can afford it.

I always had this problem with 45-105 strings, when I tried Elite Stadium 50-110, the problem was gone. I also found that I got more of a 'note' on the E with less overtones with the Elites. Good luck.

Here's a question I posted on BFM's site. [i]Does the material used for the magnet on a speaker make a difference to the sound of that speaker. Without doubt, different speakers sound different. Fane speakers always sounded cleaner to my ears than a Celestion. Celestion greenbacks are now worth silly money and Vox blue magnet speakers are worth their weight in gold. Different magnet in pickups make a difference to the sound so does the magnet in a speaker also effect the sound or is a magnet just a magnet?[/i] And here's Bill's reply. [i]No. Different materials can allow driver designers to achieve different goals, but there is no characteristic sound attributable to a certain material.[/i] What do you think?

If it means paying less for a cab and then gluing a couple of strips of ply or dowels in a cab, then I'm all for that.

Not too bad then. You've learned the lesson I learned a long time ago, switch the amp off before plugging the speakers in. Even if it's supposed to be alright because the amp is protected, I never trust it and prefer to be on the safe side.

What's a bit of weight compared to a killer sound and you've only got to carry it in at the beginning and out again at the end, you're not going to be standing there holding it all night.

As the title says, photos of a Mywatt 200 inside and out for fellow valve addicts in bass player land. [attachment=104944:mywatt 1.jpg][attachment=104945:mywatt 2.jpg][attachment=104946:mywatt 3.jpg][attachment=104947:mywatt 4.jpg][attachment=104948:mywatt 5.jpg][attachment=104949:mywatt 6.jpg][attachment=104950:mywatt 7.jpg]

When I wonder off round a venue with my G30 I don't have a timing issue at all, the rest of the band do though.

Line 6 G30 gets my vote. Used one for a year or so now and no complaints at all. I use rechargeable batteries so low running costs. I was put off the Stageclix by the need to recharge the transmitter from the receiver and as my receiver is permanently mounted in my pedal board it meant I could only charge the transmitter when I'd got to gigs and set up.

No reason why not. You might have to adjust the truss rod a bit after though.

If your amp is solid state, it's highly likely that you have shorted the output of the amp when you plugged the lead back in, hence the arcing. The first contact in the jack socket could have shorted the barrel and tip of the jack plug. If it's a valve amp, then you may have burnt out the output transformer. Valve amps do not like no load. I fear a hefty repair bill may be coming your way. I hope I'm wrong and it's something simple.

+1 on the castors

Has anyone noticed that all tuners are advertised as being able to be seen on a dark stage? I never have a problem seeing them on a dark stage, it's outside gigs in bright sunlight that I have difficulty seeing them, same problem with mobile phones.

One of these will let you know if it's a road that you want to go down and if no one else bids pretty cheap too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-BLUE-SOUNDLAB-PIEZO-SPEAKERS-TOP-BOX-2x-HORNS-4x-TWEETERS-new-/230766555536?pt=UK_ConElec_SpeakersPASystems_RL&hash=item35bac23190

Give this a look / listen. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMqJeIukXtE Very interesting and may help you decide.

You'll still need a preamp to get the level up to a usable, well level. In an emergency, I once used a graphic eq pedal into a power amp and was surprised at how good the sound was and had plenty of volume.

Had one with my VBA 400. More middle than I'd of liked but that's just me as every one else seems to like middle. Seriously heavy though. Loaded with 32 ohm Eminence drivers. A good cab.

Them there transistors must be getting pretty hot 'cause they glow a nice cherry red. That must be why the amp doesn't work as soon as you switch it on, the transistors have to heat up first.

I have never played a Reeves Custom 225 but recently bought a Mywatt 200 and it's wonderful. It's just like, well a Hiwatt. I would imagine that there would be little to separate the two as they are both Hiwatt clones except that the Mywatt would be cheaper.