JPJ

Same topic, slightly different subject but sort of links with the aspiration thing, did anyone notice the Warwick custom shop advert? If you look closely at the 'endorsees' shown on this add, you will note a certain Daryll from Profane. If I am not mistaken, this is the same Daryll who used to be on the original bassworld under the username Profane who I went on to buy my SWR750x off some years later and who is a top bass bloke. So I guess this proves that if you work hard at your craft and continue to aspire to great things, sometimes it will actually work out.

[quote name='paul, the' post='23797' date='Jun 26 2007, 10:51 PM']Cheers Chris, it's sad that I need it, but that's very reassuring. I do get jealous when I look at that Mexican one that I've posted the picture of - but painted the same colour, mine ought to look the same. Except with three control knobs and a rosewood neck - which I prefer. I'm not sure why they didn't last very long, perhaps they were expensive to make - routing different bodies, drilling into metal. Perhaps setting up the machinery wasn't cost effective and the bass wasn't selling being a bit of a mongrel. It's basically a Vintage Reissue Precision with a thinner neck and a little extra tonal versatility. - Perfect for me, although I had to get use to the neck.[/quote] Why choose between a P & a J, why not just do something like this? [attachment=935:P_Hamm_V...Finished.jpg] [attachment=936:P_Hamm_V...Finished.jpg]

Look Egor, it lives.......... Well, as at 1am Monday, the beast is complete. [attachment=902:P_Hamm_V...Finished.jpg] [attachment=903:P_Hamm_V...Finished.jpg] [attachment=904:P_Hamm_B...Finished.jpg] [attachment=905:P_Hamm_V...Finished.jpg] [attachment=906:P_Hamm_V...Finished.jpg] Only played her through headphones so far, but wow, am I happy The five-way switch (Schaller super switch) is wired to give me: 1) (Neck J - 25k ohm) + Bridge J 2) Neck J + P 3) P on its own 4) P + Bridge J 5) Neck J + (Bridge J - 25k Ohm) All switch options work really well, although I had to set the P pickup considerably lower than the two J's to balance out the power of this beast. The John East circuit is fab, and the variable mid helps smooth out the edge from the Bart's. I originally built this to be a back up to my faithfull J bass, but somehow I have managed to build something equally as good imho. I can see this rock monster getting as much gig time as the J now!

[quote name='pete.young' post='16158' date='Jun 12 2007, 12:21 PM']I have a jazz body bought from someone on bassworld which is an OK plank but the pickup routing is abysmal. The neck pu will be OK because I can fit a scratchplate, but the bridge one is horrendous, the bumps are in the wrong place and the slot isn't wide enough. If I fit a Seymour Duncan MM pickup or a Wizard combo set I reckon that will give me a way to use the body, but it'll mean re-routing the cavity and making a template. I've got loads of 5mm acrylic and reasonable fitting skills so I'm reasonably confident that I can make a decent set of templates up. Question is, how much space do I need to leave around the outline of the pickup cover to make sure that the hole is the right size? It's quite critical for the bridge pickup. I was thinking along the lines of the pickup plus the thickness of the router guide sleeve. Someone must have done this. What are the pitfalls? How much clearance do I need?[/quote] It will depend on your router. Most routers come with a collar which fits in the bottom of the baseplate to act as a follower to go around a template. To work out the offset, fix the collar to the router and fit the bit you are going to use for the routing. For pickups I use a 6mm straight cutting tungsten carbide bit (about £30) because this gives you nice tight corners (3mm radius) and nice sharp edges. Measure from the outer edge of the collar to the outer edge of the router bit and that will give you the offset, or how much bigger than the pickup the hole in your template will need to be. Word of caution though. Most router collars are too big to get into the 'blisters' for the pickup mounting screws. So what I do is drill the blisters using a 13mm drill (or rather a 6mm followed by a 10mm followed by a 13mm) BEFORE I route the pickup cavity. This way you get nice sharp blisters and your routing template only needs to be a square hole. I have a fairly high power router which has a 4mm offset from the collar to the bit, but this means the collar is something like 14mm across making it too big to get into the corners of pickup routes. So to do the corners, I 'plunge' the router in at the four corners before routing out the meat of the pickup route. Alternatively, you can get the same effect by drilling the four corners with a 6mm drill. Hope this helps, and good luck, and practice on some scrap before attacking your bass body!

[quote name='lukeward2004' post='17644' date='Jun 14 2007, 03:39 PM']Unfortunately the company doesnt allow for vans - however they have a pool of cars consisting of a few VW's, Audi's, BMW's and Mercs - most of the other Engineer's drive BMW's or Audi's, either of which I would be very happy with!!!![/quote] Sounds nice, but check the tax position before signing on the dotted line, something like a 3 series beemer with petrol for private mileage will probably cost you around £6k a year in tax! Best tax dodge on company cars is to go for one of those double cab four wheel drive pickups as they are very tax efficient and with the cover on the back can carry a lot of gear.

[quote name='dood' post='12191' date='Jun 4 2007, 11:34 PM'] She's here! She's here! Yippeee!!! Though it's too late to crank her up... noooooooo... so I plugged into the stereo to see how it fairs. BLIMEY! Already I am surprised at how good this cab sounds with just normal HIFI audio. I cant wait to hear what the cab sounds like up loud. I guess I'll be doing a full review for you all at the weekend.[/quote] Dood, I'll be really interested to hear how this works out. I have fancied a 6x10 setup for quite a while but have been put off by the low end rumble most of them produce (like a fully laden jumbo jet taking off). Both the Ampeg and the SWR I have tried have this run-away low end sound that I couldn't tame with the amp eq. Let us know soon how yours works out please?

[quote name='OldGit' post='11668' date='Jun 4 2007, 08:07 AM']Hiyah Loadsa work eh? So what Bart P Pup will you have? Will it be equal sided or lop-sided like mine?[/quote] I got mine of a guy in the US on eBay. Mine is the old equal sized cases with the uneven coils so that the top half covers the B,E & A and the bottom half the D&G.

[quote name='ali-stare' post='11676' date='Jun 4 2007, 08:42 AM']looking forward to the end of this cant wait!![/quote] That makes two of us!

Time for an update. The electrics arrived from John East (thanks John) so I was able to finish the body route. Then started the sanding and sealing. First lot of sealer just showed what a crap job of the sanding I had made, so I sanded it all off by hand and re-sanded the body and applied several coats of sanding sealer before flatting it back to result in this: [attachment=419:P_Bass_S...ed_Front.jpg] [attachment=420:P_Bass_sealed_rear.jpg] Then I applied three coats of white primer (wet on wet) like this: [attachment=421:P_Bass_F...t_Primer.jpg] [attachment=422:P_Bass_Rear_Primer.jpg] and will leave this for a week before flatting back, adding one more coat of white primer, flatting back again and then adding two or three coats of finished colour. After letting that cure for a week in the airing cupboard, I'll flat it back and apply probably three/four coats of lacquer to bring up a nice high shine. The lacquer will need about two weeks of curing before I can flat that back and polish with a 'T-Cut' to a perfect smooth shine. All in all, she should be ready for assembly by the end of June.

Live = DI straight to desk, from amp so after compression. Recording = Mike off-axis for a big full sound [quote name='woodenshirt' post='11228' date='Jun 2 2007, 11:34 PM']Preferably, both for me - DI'd and an AKG D112 (is there a better bass mic?). Mart[/quote]

Alex was like Luke Skywalker to Bill Fitzmaurice's Yoda of speaker design theory. He's missed and should get his arse over here sharp'ish [quote name='pete.young' post='10810' date='Jun 1 2007, 10:05 PM']+1 for that.[/quote]

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='11087' date='Jun 2 2007, 04:50 PM']I've just come back from Maplins and they're selling rubber mats for sticking on top of car dashboards to stop things sliding around. You could get one or more of those. They're about the size of half a sheet of A4 paper. They've also got [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=217606&criteria=slip%20mat&doy=2m6"]these[/url] [/quote] +1 for the grip mat. I use one of these on my work bench when routing etc and I can assure you that they are amazing and nothing slips around on one of those. Suggest you try one under the cab and one under the amp. That should keep the little light weight buggers from shuffling around.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='7091' date='May 26 2007, 12:27 PM']Thank you, that's a useful site, and should save me from asking a million stupid questions here - bookmarked.[/quote] Routers are fairly easy to operate, the secret when doing neck pockets and pickup routes is to make templates and use the template following adapter which fits into the bottom of the router and guides the cutter around the edge of the template. I make my templates from 6mm mdf because its easy to work with. When you have made your templates, test them on a piece of scrap before you commit to your body blank. When making bass/guitar bodies, I usually make two templates, one for the outline and one for all the cutouts i.e. neck pocket, pickups, bridge. I route the pickups, neck pocket etc when the blank is still a square blank as it makes alignment simpler and then route the profile of the body. This way I hopefully end up with the important bits in a straight line and central in the body. For bass pickups with lugs (like fenders, musicman's etc) I drill the lugs with the correct size drill bit before routing the pickup, rather than trying to cut them with the router, that way I get a much sharper fit around the lugs. Finally, routers cut in one direction, which is normally marked on the top (i.e. visible side) of the baseplate. If you move the router in the wrong direction, the machine has a tendency to run away from you and can lead to some unpredicable results! You'll know if your going in the right direction as they squeal like buggery if you are going the wrong way. Final finally, depending on the wood you are using and the size of cutter and power of your router, you will need to vary your depth of cut. For example, cutting the profile of my project P which is made from swamp ash with a 6.3mm straight cutting bit, I found I could take about 5mm per pass. Cutting mahogany with the same cutter, I could only take around 3mm per pass. Hope this helps!

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='7775' date='May 27 2007, 07:48 PM']Thanks guys - I know and have worked with letraset often in the past at work. I should have thought about that before posting really. I was hoping for something that didn't rely on the eye for letter spacing and level just because I'm lazy more than anything when it comes to doing this. The coat of lacquer might do the trick as far as protecting it is concerned. Marker pen and Dymo tape is possible although I'd prefer something better quality.[/quote] Providing you are not tying to achieve white text on a black background, you can achieve great results using iron-on transfer paper, the stuff you can use to print tee-shirts. A coat of lacquer helps fix this too, and this way you can lay everything out on the computer and then print out and iron on to the front of the rack unit. I did a rack with black text in little yellow boxes which looked great against the black facia of the rack unit.

[quote name='OldGit' post='3751' date='May 21 2007, 04:04 PM']60 squid new from [url="http://www.millennium-music.co.uk/home/products.pl?ProductCode=AL0008&mode=detail"]Here[/url][/quote] Wow, now that is a bargain that may be just too hard to resist!

There used to be a guy advertising plans on eBay a while back, in fact I bought some P Bass plans off him which my in-build project is based on. Unfortunately, I am away from home until the weekend, but if you can wait, I'll pm you his email address. However, in the case of neck pockets, I find it best to scribe the neck pocket from the actual neck I am going to use, as manufacturing tolerances mean the actual neck you get can be as much as 0.5mm wider (or narrower!) than the designed dimension.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='2436' date='May 19 2007, 08:52 PM']I am a fan of it but have yet to find a compressor I like. Most compressors I've tried have either been too coloured (removing some of the sparkle and low end) or too severe in their impact (sucking volume and adding an unnatural thup at the start of a note because the attack setting is too coarse). The kind of compression I've liked the most has been just from valves. They tame the high end (which is really all I'm after for when I'm slapping) without removing low end punch and (particularly) the mids. The Trace Elliot dual band compressor is the best I've tried so far but I still don't want to use it in my rig because the tone still isn't right. Dave Hall is going to send me his valve compressor prototype to try out soon and I'll pop a review in the reviews section.[/quote] Hey CK, Did you try the Alesis 3630? I found this to be the most uncoloured of all compressors I tried, and I'd still have one if I still had a rack to keep it in. So Dave Hall is building a prototype valve compressor! Now thats something I'd definitely be interest in, looking forward to the review!

[quote name='d-basser' post='1358' date='May 18 2007, 12:47 PM']Looks good, I am considering (if i can muster the cash) getting one made but with a compression driver added for those highs, i PM'd JPJ and his prices are very reasonable. quick Q, how does the 12" handle lows? i will be playing a 6 string through it.[/quote] Well in testing, it handled my low B with surprising authority. Remember this cab has the Delta 12LF speaker, so its designed to go a little lower than a stock Delta 12. Mounting the speaker on an angle like this and effectively giving it a flare certainly helps with the dispersion. If anybody is interested in one of these (or any other format for that matter) drop me a pm and we'll sort something out, ok?

Forget that dumb ass question , A quick google turned up his contacts and website

Anybody got Dave Hall (DHA) contact details?

Yes, I have a punch factory that I use all the time live. Can be subtle, but I wasnt looking for that heavily compressed (Bon Jovi) bass style, I just wanted to protect the front end of my amp from my own ham fistedness. Used to have an Alesis 3630 which is the dogs dooh dahs if you have the rack space as all parameters are adjustable and its possible to get a very effective but transparent compression effect along with a good noise gate for between song moments.

Reading this thread is like being at the first bass players annonymous meeting! "Hi my names JPJ and I'm a bass player....."

Thanks for the help guy's, the 27k option is probably the one I'll go for as fitting a variable is probably a bit beyond my electrical abilities!

I thought of the diode, but that's starting to get way beyond my electronics capabilities to specify the right parts. I guess I actually need two diodes, one for the 'both on' option and one for the both on but reduced neck p'up option?

Here's the rock-n-roll shot [attachment=9:P1010014.jpg] And here's the silly cheesy grin (with multiple chin's) shot! [attachment=10:P1010024.jpg]