JPJ

Looks like I'll be around on the 27th so count me in. I could bring my SWR rig as long as there is some big strong boys there to help me lug it in and out. I'll bring the Overwater along as well if anyones interested?

[quote name='steve-norris' post='330123' date='Nov 16 2008, 03:17 PM']It really doesn't get any better than this. [/quote] +1 [quote name='Bigwan' post='330316' date='Nov 16 2008, 10:30 PM']Usually referred to as "HOW MUCH!" [/quote] + 1 (unfortunately, damn those children, damn the wife)

About a year or so ago, I picked up an empty Schroeder 21012 cabinet for peanuts on good'ol eBay. The previous owner had removed the speakers for his own purposes so I replaced them with some Eminence Delta's from Blue Aran. For those of you who don't know, the 21012 is a 2x10 + 1x12 cab with the 12" on a slanted baffle. The cab was originally a 4 ohm model but I wanted 8 ohm as I planned on building a second similar cabinet for a small light but powerful stack. I put two 8 ohm Delta 10's in series to give 16 ohms in parallel with a Delta 12 16 ohm to bring the whole lot down to 8 ohms again and its been working fine. The only thing is, I couldn't work out how to wire in the horn or the crossover so I didn't bother. Now, however, I would like to wire these in hence the cry for help as the previous owner had disconnected all the wires. The crossover is marked SL-MB-2206, has +/- inputs and outputs and looks like this; The variable resistor controlling the amount of tweeter is marked AT-60H L-8 ohm, has three solder connections and looks like this; The tweeter unit has two wires coming out of it, one brown and one white. I can work out where the red lead from the crossover goes because of the red tail still attached to the variable resistor thingy, but as for the rest I'm in the dark. Can anyone help?

[quote name='The Burpster' post='305115' date='Oct 12 2008, 11:03 PM']Ooooops forgot that bit..... [/quote] Am I the only one to have an evil lust for a 5 string headless Thunderbird with the ABM bridge It might just be my next project bass......

Hi Mate, Welcome into the daylight! I've got a 21012 which has a monstrous bottom end. Handles my low 'B' no problem and never gets flabby the way some 1x15's can. For comparison, I also have an SWR Goliath 4x10 + Son of Bertha 1x15 rig that I use with the same amp head (SWR750X) for bigger rock gigs. I am really considering getting a schroeder 4x10 to match up with the 21012 for a monster but relatively light weight rig. Back to your question though, and be careful with the idea of the 12+15. Remember that one speaker (the 15) is mounted on an angled baffle which means its sort of in a bin type arrangement. There are far more knowledgeable people on here who can explain the physics but the net effect is an apparent increase in bass response. WaterOfTyne on here used to use a 21012 as well and he likes a real old school thumping tone, but he's just moved to a Schro 410 because he found the 21012 to bass heavy (Correct me if I'm wrong mate). I can only imagine what a 1215 would sound like, but I would recommend trying both this and the 1212 before you part with any folding stuff. [quote name='EvilSmile' post='281495' date='Sep 10 2008, 10:46 PM']Hey, been lurking here quite a bit, i'm looking into getting a cab for my Eden WT 800 its an older model on bridged only does 800watts at 8ohm. After considering and trying almost every cab under the sun i've decided that i think a Schroeder is the way forward, mainly due to weight, cost and the sound (all pretty much perfect imo!) Anyway my choice comes down to the 1212 and the 1215. I'm torn as i like the the deep bass from a 15, but i like the response of a 12. I'm lost as to the effect of the 15 will have, and if the 1215 cab will still be as responsive as the 1212(within reason). My tests on them both couldn't determine what would happen as the volume level was more for tone than anything else. I play a huge range of stuff and i really like the idea of a 15'' speaker, but clarity and response is more pressing for most of the stuff i do. Oh both would be the lighter versions. Any advice on this or even better experience with these cabs? NB by the deep bass i'm not after a dubtastic bass but i like a bit of bass and low mid kick to my tone, and for my low B to be well defined and not too thin sounding![/quote]

By chance, you didn't buy this on a certain forum dedicated to the local music scene in the north east run by a large red headed bloke who impersonates Bernie Marsden at weekends did you?

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='273950' date='Aug 31 2008, 06:48 PM']hi Kev, I can't tell you what the factory wall wart is rated at but my UB-1 runs fine off a 9v 500ma supply from Maplins[/quote] Cheers Steve, I guess I need a trip to Maplins at lunchtime! [quote name='2x18' post='273956' date='Aug 31 2008, 06:55 PM']The Genuine Akai Adaptor for the Unibass is 9 volts at 200ma ( 7watts ) Akai part no MP-9(EVB) Regards Will.[/quote] Cheers Will [quote name='Muppet' post='273957' date='Aug 31 2008, 06:56 PM']Standard Akai power supply is 9v 200mA, centre negative.[/quote] Cheers Muppet [quote name='BassManKev' post='273974' date='Aug 31 2008, 07:25 PM']i have an original akai power supply if you wanna complete the collectable package if your interested, pop us a pm but yeah, any 9v dc with at least 150ma would work no problems[/quote] Cheers Kev, but I think I'll try the Maplins route first

Hi All, I recently picked up an Akai Unibass from a fellow basschat'ter but it came without the original Akai power supply. From browsing the interweb, it seems a nine volt adapter does the job but does anybody know how many milliamps or whatever should it output? thanks

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='264995' date='Aug 18 2008, 10:12 PM']Nooo! Informal G2G and I'm gigging somewhere else. Dammit. Mrs. WoT would even have had her sideburns trimmed for the occasion.[/quote] OOH I wouldn't like to be in your shoes if Rach see's that comment. Swift trip to Rake Lane to have a violin bow extracted from somewhere very very painful me thinks

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='262309' date='Aug 14 2008, 12:01 PM']Sausages sizzling, ready to become a sausage & egg sandwich with brown sauce! You did ask![/quote] mmmmmm now I am hungry

Airbourne - Runnin Wild, for those who don't know they are a bunch of young aussie rockers who sound cunningly like Bon era ACDC.

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='262000' date='Aug 13 2008, 10:31 PM']JPJ, I've looked at the jazz in the same 3TS as yours on the Overwater website many, many times. Stunning looking basses. Glad you're happy with it [/quote] Cheers mate, Got to admit mine looks much better in the flesh than in that photo, less yellowy and more browns and red. In fact, the sides are more brown/maroon than black. Got to say that I am now a fan of 35" scale length for the 'B'. The B speaks with such authority and without the latency which is apparent on my other to 34" 5 scale fivers. As some may know, I am pretty old skool when it comes to tone, so I run the bass with a slight bias towards the bridge (I'm a fingers player) a miniscule mid-cut on the J-Retro with everything flat on my SWR750. Throught the combination of the golly & SoB its just a huge on stage sound, more than capable of filling the lower registers of a four piece classic rock band (drums, guitar, vox, bass). I know that Shuker seems to be the luthier of choice on Basschat, but for me, you'll have to go a very long way indeed to beat Overwater for playability, tone and sheer quality of build.

I recently picked this one up secondhand. Put simply, its the best bass I've ever owned/played. I've been an admirer of Chris May's work all the way back to the days of Chris and Andy's on High Bridge in Newcastle, but like many, have never had the money or patience to commission a custom build of my own. When this one came up on eBay with no takers, a swift exchange of emails and a trip to Cockermouth saw her become mine. Despite her being just eleven months old and just over half of the factory price, believe it or not, it was the spec that attracted me. The body is tulipwood (not one I have come across before as a tone wood) with a nicely flamed maple neck and rosewood fret board. Hardware is by Schaller with DiMarzio Ultra Jazz Pups and a J-Retro circuit. Three colour sunburst (which the photos dont do justice to) with a tort scratchplate. Colour matched headstock. Plays like an absolute dream and the low B speaks so well you find yourself looking for excuses to use it. Scale length is 35" and I had no problem adjusting. I have just finished my first run of gigs with this baby and I am so pleased with her. She balances excellently on the strap. In a four piece she cuts through the mix nicely, really filling / rounding out the lower mid range and bass enc of things. For the first time in my life, I have such an even string response that i can actually hear the little fills and widdles etc on stage, oh and chords just ring out so cleanly. She's so good, I havent been back on eBay since I bought her.

After lusting after an Overwater J series for a long long time, I finally managed to bag one earlier this year. Mine is a 35" scale 5 string bolt on J series with the John East J-Retro. Comparing this with my Fender Jazz V also with the J-retro is like comparing chalk and cheese. The Overwater positively sings and is so playable its almost unbelievable. Chords sound great, little fills and runs leap out of your speakers and the response is so even across all five strings. What does it sound like, well it sounds like a classic jazz bass on steroids. Buy one, you will not be disappointed.

[quote name='silverfoxnik' post='221835' date='Jun 18 2008, 11:56 PM']+1 I though that the diference was more apparent in the way the bass sustains, as opposed to a change in tonal characteristics..[/quote] Well imho, I am not convinced that it adds a great deal to the sustain. I have two basses with through bridge stringing and one without. My MIA Jazz V DLX (with J-Retro) has a stock fender bridge and is strung through the body and has the shortest sustain of all three. My self built P five string has a Badass and is strung through the body and sings like a singing thing singing for all its worth. My latest acquisition, an Overwater J V has a conventional Hipshot bridge (no thru body stringing) and it sings like a choir of singing things singing for all they are worth. My conclusion is that the resonance of the body wood has a lot more to do with sustain and tone than whether the strings are strung thru or not. I believe that stringing thru the body does add something, but that that something is probably only one or two percent of the whole. Its far more important to have carefully selected tone woods for the body than worrying about whether to string thru or conventional. Then again, with my ears that could all be total bollocks, still one man's tone is another man's nightmare!

Hi all, Another geordie signing in on this thread. How about a stottie export business, I mean Craster Kippers gan all ower the world in their little cardboard boxes DHL next day so why not stotties? I always think they taste better the day after anyway! Seems we've almost enough for a NE bash? Lots of bass, dog and stotties - can't think of a better afternoon's entertainment!

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='220199' date='Jun 16 2008, 08:33 PM']Surely the very reason that people are asking is because they want to know and are specifically asking people who may well be knowledgeable on the subject! Of course people experiment and pre t'internet, pretty much the only way to find out if something worked was 'suck it and see'. However there is a wealth of knowledge available (and being offered) on this forum; to deride, however mildly, someone for offering an educated insight is a bit narrow minded. We could have a sticky at the top of the thread that just says 'Don't bother asking... just do it.' However it would make for a pretty boring forum TBH it is 'almost' pointless asking anyone for an opinion on ANYTHING with regard to something as subjective as tone BUT science isn't subjective, so really that is the only advice that can mean a blasted thing.[/quote] For my mind, there are two camps here, and for my money, neither is correct in all cases. What Bill preaches is at the absolute pinnacle of audio engineering and there is no doubt that Bill knows his stuff and I enjoy reading his posts (and Alex C's too). But equally, I'm old skool and started gigging life with 2x15's and 4x12's. I now use a 4x10 + 1x15 setup that gives me the sound I want to hear. Sure, my cabs are less than efficient than they could be, but with the cost of amp heads in terms of £ per Watt at probably the best rate I've ever known, I am less worried about this than perhaps I should be. I'd like to try some of Bill's cabs to see how they shape up soundwise. But equally, I'd be concerned that I'd end up eq'ing the hell out of them to make them sound like my current setup which would rather defeat the object.

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='218771' date='Jun 14 2008, 11:24 AM']And now I SO have GAS for a [url="http://www.tecamp.de/?id=103"]TecAmp M212[/url]. GAAAAHHHH (again)[/quote] 20kgs ffs. Cheers WoT, I didn't have gas until I read this thread but now I bloody do! Never thought you'd move away from the Schroeder mind. We should probably A/B your real Schroeder with my Eminence equipped clone. Now my speakers are played in, its probably the creamiest but well defined cab I've ever heard and I still haven't figured out how to wire in the horn yet?

Readymade by RHCP (Stadium Arcadium disc 2) A real finger workout for both left and right hands